Hand Sewing Techniques

I'm going to try to cover some of the basic stitches and their uses.  There are so many other stitches and I really recommend purchasing Kannik's Lady's Guide to Plain Sewing books.  I'm mainly covering the types that I'm going to be mentioning a lot.  I noticed that one of the hardest things to find information on is what stitch is proper to use where.  I'll try to mention a few of the most common uses and they'll come up later in instructions.

One of the best tips I have gotten about 18th century hand sewing is that today we stitch a seam and open it up.  Back then, they would most often fold the seams then stitch.  I'll explain it more further on.

Running Stitch

The most basic of stitches.  Up, down, up, down.  That's it.  On average, there would be about 8-10 stitches per inch.  That depends mostly on how much work the seam will get.  If you're doing a side seam for a petticoat, you can run a little longer.  This can be used in open seams or as a basting stitch.  Yes, I did just say they folded then stitched, but some seams like petticoat sides or center back on some jackets couldn't be.  However, in both cases, I'd recommend a back stitch or a combination stitch for strength.

Back Stitch

Probably the most useful stitch to learn.  You come up a stitch length past your last stitch and then go down meeting with that last stitch.  It creates a very strong seam.  Again, about 8-10 per inch on average.  If you do a few running stitches, then one back stitch it's known as a combination stitch.  Combinations are great for petticoat side seams where you want speed and strength.  Back stitches can easily create open seams or lapped seams.  For lapped seams you spread out the stitch showing a short "prick" on the outside and a longer stitch inside.  Fold over the seam allowance on one piece and lay it on top of the other then stitch near the edge (1/8").  If you're doing a lined piece you can fold the outer layer on one side, lay it on both layers from the other side, stitch, then fold the last lining piece over to hide the edges.  I'll show examples when I get to jackets.  The spread out back stitch can also be used along edges to keep them from rolling, attach skirts on gowns, or stitch on trim and robings.

Point a Rabattre/whip stitch/plain hem

Whatever you call it, this stitch can be used just about anywhere.  You can use it to hem, roll edges, and stitch in linings.  I show two uses below, the first as a way to stitch a lining in at the edge and the second as a rolled edge.  I'll expand on the lining use at a later point.  Keep in mind this stitch is small as well, only showing a small prick on the outer side.  

If you roll two layers together and make sure to go through both on the prick stitch then it's a Mantua Maker's seam which is a fast way to seam and finish edges at the same time!  

If you do a back or running stitch with the two edges off set, fold over the allowance twice then whip it down to one side it's a flat felled seam.

There are many more combinations of these three stitches as there are many other stitches.  Again, I recommend the Lady's Guides.  They're inexpensive and probably the most useful books you will own if you want to hand stitch your clothing.  I'll be referencing the use of these stitches in all of my instructions.

Overview

One of the first things to remember about the 18th century is that fabric is expensive, but labor is not.  If you aren't looking to portray the upper class, stick with linens, cottons, or wools.  My recommendation is to check with sutlers if you don't know what to look for.  Most places (like Wm Booth Draper and Burnely & Trowbridge) will gladly talk to you over phone or email about fabric choices.  If you are going high class, silk taffeta is your best bet.  Dupioni, while cheaper now, isn't correct.  The safest bets are solid colors, rather than prints.  There are many incorrect prints out there that take a trained eye to spot and there are some garments where prints aren't always correct.  Here is a basic list of garments for men and women.

Women

Shift: the basic linen undergarment which allowed for easy cleaning and kept outer clothing clean.

Stockings:  over-the-knee socks held up by garters or ribbons.  Came in many colors, some with decorative clocking.

Stays:  not a corset.  These gave you a conical shape without crushing you.  Half or fully boned, straps or no, front or front/back laced.

Pockets:  hanging pouches tied on around the waist, separate from the other garments, accessible through slits in the petticoat.

Side Hoops: sometimes called paniers in modern terms, give you the wide hips without the fuss of a large hoop petticoat.  Very popular in the '70s.  You could also use these as large pockets.  Replaced by bum and hip rolls in the '80s.

Petticoat:  pleated skirt that would be worn under the gown or jacket.  Under-petticoats were made of less expensive material and could add warmth or hide lines from hoops.  Usually about 3" off the ground.

Jacket:  there are many different styles of jacket.  These were most commonly worn by both working class and upper class, though in different styles.  Some fitted, some unfitted and held in by the apron.

Gown:  worn by every class.  A robe a l'Anglaise has a fitted back while a robe a la Francaise has a loose or "sack" back.  More money meant more trim.  All classes used ruffles or kerchiefs around the neck for modesty.

Cloak:  worn by women and men for warmth.  Made of wool and came with or without a hood.

Mantelet:  a shortened cloak usually made from satin, silk, or lace.  It was used for warmth, but often indoors or on cool days.
Robe a la Polonaise: a particular style of gown with gathered up skirts, loose fronts, and false waistcoat.  Many styles of gowns have polonaised skirts, but are not this specific style.
Brunswick: a sacque-back style jacket, often used for travel, that has a hood and removable long-sleeves.
Riding Habit: ensemble of petticoat, riding shirt, waistcoat, and masculine jacket.

Mens

Shirt:  similar to today's shirts, but with a front slit rather than fully open.  Always loosely fitted and often long enough to serve as underwear.

Waistcoat:  Buttoned vest worn by all classes.  Some have sleeves which could be sewn in or tied on.

Jacket:  Similar to waistcoat in cut and length.  Often had sleeves, but not always.  More practical than a full-length coat for work and often worn over a waistcoat.

Breeches:  Knee length pants that buttoned down to a buckled, buttoned, or tied cuff on the leg.  The top was also buttoned and usually had a fall-front.  The back was looser to allow for room to ride a horse.  It also laced closed in the back at the waistband to allow for adjustment.

Coat:  Knee-length, full-skirted (narrowing with time).  Worn over waistcoat by all classes.

Cloaks & Stockings:  generally the same as women's wear.

Shoes:  Men's are usually made of leather, exception in some dance pumps and slippers.  Women's could be fabric covered or leather (remember leather is the cheap option at this point).

There are a lot of items and terms I haven't covered, but this gives you the basics.