Honestly my favorite book title at the bindery, but I promise I'm not doing a post on sheep. Rather, I need a break from heavy information posts today and feel inclined towards the subject of wool. Now, I will admit I have not always loved wool, I am indeed a convert to it. I'm very allergic to wool. You get me near an angora sweater and I can't stop sneezing. If I wear a winter coat without a scarf, my neck will break out in a rash. So, how is it that I came to have 3 petticoats, 2 gowns, 3 pairs of mitts, a jacket, a riding habit, and yards upon yards of waiting fabric made from wool? And better yet, why is wool so rare in re-enacting outside of military uniforms and cloaks??
At events I often get asked about my clothing, by civilians and re-enactors alike. The most common question is probably "What is that made of?" (aside from last weekend where my grand feathered hat elicited jokes about seeing me in the royal wedding). I will admit this is mostly a re-enactor question. But, the vast majority of the time when asked, I'm wearing wool. The response often receives a slightly surprised, incredulous look. I've been told numerous times by fabric sutlers how difficult it is to convince people of the qualities of wool, lamenting over my gown.
When I started making 18th century garments I avoided wool like the plague. I suppose that should be small pox, really. It itched, scratched, and wasn't washable. Why bother? I made gowns and jackets from linen and cotton, with the occasional silk garment. I will admit, however, I did lust after a few wool fabrics, just not enough to give in (mostly due to color). After almost two years the only wool garment I had was a cloak, fully lined of course. I even avoided wool at work, since it often aggravated my asthma. When the Fife & Drum received new outfits, I was coughing for weeks.
The moment of weakness arrived when selecting a fabric for the riding habit workshop. I couldn't get a color out of my head, I had seen it in a wool and couldn't imagine it any other way. I gave in and purchased a light green worsted wool and completely fell in love. It draped beautifully, the seams pressed out nicely, it held it's shape, and was so easy to work with. I told myself that this would be the one wool garment I would have, since there were always two or more layers between the wool and myself.
It goes so quickly downhill from there. Honestly, I blame Burnley & Trowbridge. They brought in three colors of the most exquisite camlet (mix of silk, linen, and wool). I'm not ashamed to admit I purchased some of all three. I made a Robe a l'Anglaise from their cinnamon color. I have plans to make a Regency riding habit from the blue and possibly a Civil War gown from the beige (which I've also made a men's suit from for a client).
Then came my pirate costume last summer. The lightest weight worsted I have ever felt in claret along with a mix cloth of wool and silk for the petticoat (if only you could see the way it shines). I also discovered an amazing thing that summer while working outside almost every night. My green wool petticoat from my riding habit was just as light as my linen petticoats! Granted I couldn't wear it without an underpetticoat, but it breathed so nicely and never had the damp clingy feeling that linen could.
I gave up all arguments against wool by last fall, purchasing some chocolate worsted wool for a gown. I have some of the same in light blue, originally planned for another gown. However, the current one is holding up so well I won't need the blue for a long time (compared to my first linen gown, which is in a sad state). So, it might feed my sudden obsession with Tudor clothing instead.
It shows no sign of stopping, seeing as I just found yellow camlet from Wm Booth last weekend. So next time you come across a beautiful woolen, don't pass it by. It makes up into beautiful and durable garments (and fire proof!!). Women of all classes would have worn it in the 18th century. Especially with that English wool monopoly! They wouldn't even sell us the darn sheep.
But, more on the research side later. I'm still working on a series of posts about fabrics and colors, but it's grown into a very large idea. I suppose this is a good way to start though!
At events I often get asked about my clothing, by civilians and re-enactors alike. The most common question is probably "What is that made of?" (aside from last weekend where my grand feathered hat elicited jokes about seeing me in the royal wedding). I will admit this is mostly a re-enactor question. But, the vast majority of the time when asked, I'm wearing wool. The response often receives a slightly surprised, incredulous look. I've been told numerous times by fabric sutlers how difficult it is to convince people of the qualities of wool, lamenting over my gown.
When I started making 18th century garments I avoided wool like the plague. I suppose that should be small pox, really. It itched, scratched, and wasn't washable. Why bother? I made gowns and jackets from linen and cotton, with the occasional silk garment. I will admit, however, I did lust after a few wool fabrics, just not enough to give in (mostly due to color). After almost two years the only wool garment I had was a cloak, fully lined of course. I even avoided wool at work, since it often aggravated my asthma. When the Fife & Drum received new outfits, I was coughing for weeks.
The moment of weakness arrived when selecting a fabric for the riding habit workshop. I couldn't get a color out of my head, I had seen it in a wool and couldn't imagine it any other way. I gave in and purchased a light green worsted wool and completely fell in love. It draped beautifully, the seams pressed out nicely, it held it's shape, and was so easy to work with. I told myself that this would be the one wool garment I would have, since there were always two or more layers between the wool and myself.
It goes so quickly downhill from there. Honestly, I blame Burnley & Trowbridge. They brought in three colors of the most exquisite camlet (mix of silk, linen, and wool). I'm not ashamed to admit I purchased some of all three. I made a Robe a l'Anglaise from their cinnamon color. I have plans to make a Regency riding habit from the blue and possibly a Civil War gown from the beige (which I've also made a men's suit from for a client).
Then came my pirate costume last summer. The lightest weight worsted I have ever felt in claret along with a mix cloth of wool and silk for the petticoat (if only you could see the way it shines). I also discovered an amazing thing that summer while working outside almost every night. My green wool petticoat from my riding habit was just as light as my linen petticoats! Granted I couldn't wear it without an underpetticoat, but it breathed so nicely and never had the damp clingy feeling that linen could.
I gave up all arguments against wool by last fall, purchasing some chocolate worsted wool for a gown. I have some of the same in light blue, originally planned for another gown. However, the current one is holding up so well I won't need the blue for a long time (compared to my first linen gown, which is in a sad state). So, it might feed my sudden obsession with Tudor clothing instead.
It shows no sign of stopping, seeing as I just found yellow camlet from Wm Booth last weekend. So next time you come across a beautiful woolen, don't pass it by. It makes up into beautiful and durable garments (and fire proof!!). Women of all classes would have worn it in the 18th century. Especially with that English wool monopoly! They wouldn't even sell us the darn sheep.
But, more on the research side later. I'm still working on a series of posts about fabrics and colors, but it's grown into a very large idea. I suppose this is a good way to start though!
