Riding Drefs

While searching through the Lewis Walpole Gallery last summer I came across many images of riding habits, not all of which were the typical design we are accustom to seeing.  I started collecting up these to get a better idea of when or what it was.  Although there seems to be a variance of style (two in particular), I'm just going to define what follows as "unfitted Riding Habits", meaning they lack a waist seam.  It seems to come into style along with the Polonaise gown, and some distinctly resemble it down to the wrinkles.  Some are more military in style, one fashion plate of this style defines it as a Bavarian Frock, while the others have a tapering collar with a tie for closure in front.  There were many other images that looked like they might be unfitted, but I really couldn't tell if it was just the artists quick rendition (especially since the arm usually covers the seam).
I was in the Millinery/Tailor shop soon after and Mark Hutter had made a habit based on the Polonaise style (you can see the final product on Sarah here).  He mentioned that it might even be called Riding Habit a la Polonaise.  It took me up until this month to really delve into documents to find any references to that particular style.  I found three potential references to a Riding Habit a la Polonaise (or commonly Polonese), and a few good ideas of colors and interesting comments I'll post at the bottom.

In the Public Advertiser, April 15 of 1779: PARMENTIER, lately from Paris, Ladies Robe and Mantua-maker, makes all sorts of ladies dresses in the present taste; as Polish, Circassian, Italian, and Levee gowns for the country; Caraco a la Provencale, Riding-Habits a la Polonoise, and all sorts of corsets.

In the Morning Post and Daily Advertiser, January 31 of 1775 there is a Habit-Maker advertising that he makes "Masquerade dresses, and a la Polonaise".  I can't quite guarantee he isn't referring to a gown of that style, but it's something to keep in mind once I know more about who made Polonaise gowns (probably dependent on usage since "Polonaise" seems to come up in reference to Masquerades early on).

In the Gazeteer and New Daily Advertiser, January 1 or 1776 there is a long list of items available and prices beside them.  Under "Habits made of:" is Superfine 4 9 0, Cassimere 4 14 6, Neatly Trimmed a la Polonaise 5 5 0, and Ratteen for winter wear 3 13 6.

1778: Miss Wicket and Miss Trigger

1778: The Favourite Footman

1778: The Female Fox Hunter (Proper Dating)

1779 "Fraque a Bavaire"

1779: Reynards Last Shift

1780: A Scene in the Park

1780: A Soft Tumble after a Hard Ride

1780: The Ladies Shooting Poney

1781: Satirical Print

1781: The Sudden Explosion

Public Advertiser August 23 1776: Grey with Scarlet lining and Stone with Green lining.

Gazeteer and New Daily Advertiser March 14 1777: A lost Riding Habit of "green striped cloth, lined with pink silk and pink silk waistcoat."

Gazeteer and New Daily Advertiser February 1 1779: A "cloth coloured riding habit lined with pink silk".

Gazeteer and New Daily Advertiser May 31 1779: The Duchess of Cumberland seen wearing a "Pea-green" riding dress.

Lloyd's Evening Post August 14 1780: Riding Habit of "Superfine Claret Broad Cloth".

Gazeteer and New Daily Advertiser October 24 1780: A brown Riding Habit lost.

Gazeteer and New Daily Advertiser August 15 of 1776: Riding Habits of kerseymere faced with silk, cloth, silk, jean, jenner, and nankeen.

Gazeteer and New Daily Advertiser November 7 1776: Riding Habit of cassimere.

Bath Chronicle November 6 1777:  Riding Habits are continued to be made in the most fashionable taste in plain or superfine cloth trimmed with silk 5 5, silk waist 5 15, with high-polished steel 6 6, elegant patent buttons 6 16. A dress with French Boullion frogs, and silk waistcoat 7 17 6. Ditto with frogs of gold, silver, and different colour folio, and silk waistcoat trimmed in proportion 8 16 6. Fashionably bound with a striped or flower tissue waistcoat 9 9. Scarlet cloth, half a guinea; striped or spotted 35s. addition to the prices above-mentioned.

Gazeteer and New Daily Advertiser January 31 1778: Riding Habits of cloth faced with silk 5 5 0, with gimp or frogs 5 15 6, jean 4 4 0, nankeen 3 13 6.  In "foreign or English fashion".

London Courant and Westminster Chronicle July 4 1780: Riding Habits of superfine Kerseymere fac'd with silk 5 0 0, superfine cloth fac'd with silk 4 14 6, fine jean or jennet 3 11 0, nankeen 3 0 0.

Gazeteer and New Daily Advertiser October 31 1780: A Riding Habit of cotton with metal buttons.

Caledonian Mercury December 9 1782: "Superfine printed Paoli for fashionable riding habits"

General Evening Post June 13 1778: "The only tonish undress at present among the ladies of all ranks is a scarlet riding habit, faced of the colour that distinguishes the regiment of militia in which their husbands, their lovers, or their keepers now serve, at the different encampments."

Morning Post and Daily Advertiser April 22 1780: "Ladies Riding Hats made peculiarly light, and of the best qualities; of a most delicate white, without the least dusty powder in them, a merrit no other sort of white hats can claim; are also dyed of various fine colours, and if required dyed to match habits. The black are remarkably light, and of superior quality to any yet every offered to the public."

Riding Habit

Happy Halloween everyone! I have to work tonight, so no fun for me, but I at least will be in costume. But, to celebrate I figured I should get the habit up. To preface, it was patterned at a Burnley & Trowbridge workshop. I have previously posted on the riding habit shirt as well. It's made from a pearl green worsted wool, trimmed with silk velvet, and lined with silk taffeta. Style-wise it's a late '70s or '80s. The peaked cuffs, short skirt (too short for pocket flaps even), lack of skirt on the waistcoat, and the narrow collar really date it. So does the hat, but that's a whole different beast (trust me, that was an unpleasant journey). The buttons are silver twist.

From inside to out the shift, stays, shirt, petticoat, and other basic items have been touched upon before. The first habit piece on top of this is the waistcoat. I used a cinnamon silk taffeta for the fronts, both inside and out. The back is a plain linen. Nothing much unusual in stitching here. Edges are done in the tailor style with a spaced back-stitch (rather than the under-hand commonly used in mantua-making). The fronts were made first and all of the seams fold into the back lining area. Note the back doesn't have vents like men's waistcoats. Even if you choose to put a skirt on your waistcoat, the back stays short.

The buttons are simply self-covered wood. The pattern of the waistcoat is the same as the coat, except for the bottom (since mine has no skirt), and adding a small amount to the coat seam allowances for ease. Note the dart just above the bust line, it should happen at the top of your stays.
The coat is lined in the same taffeta, except for the sleeves which are linen. That wears better than silk and won't be as fretful to replace when the elbows and armpits wear out. The skirts are inserted up into the body with the lining hiding the seam. Unlike many gowns, the armscyes are closed as well. The back seam is back-stitched, the side seams are done like a gowns with top stitching.
The center back skirt has a vent, while the sides have pleats. They sit under the front section, both front and back fold twice so that the edges do not lay on the same side. Buttons are placed on the top and 1" up from the hem.
The collar is also lined with the silk. There is no interfacing in the collar (same goes for men's wear) and none in the cuffs since they are stitched on. However, the front does have interfacing pieces to help support the buttons and buttonholes. The waistcoat has the same. I used Russia Sheeting in this case. I've also used a heavy linen before, but the correct thing would be a buckram (stiffened linen). I haven't taken the time to make any yet, but it's not difficult.
So there it is! I recently finished a men's suit, jumps, and another gown. Once I finally get images of the customers wearing them, I'll be sure to post those! The interfacing in a man's suit does well to inform how riding habits are done as well.

Riding Habit Soon!

This Saturday I'll be back in Indiana for Feast of the Hunter's Moon. If you're in the area make sure to visit and wave me down! I'm almost done with my riding habit for it. I still have to finish the hat (I blocked it today), stitch on the rest of the buttons, make a cravat, and figure out hair. I've given you all a sneak peek, the full inside out to come soon. I've also recently finished some men's small clothes and are ready to start a hunting coat and under-breeches. Add in some jumps and I should have some fun posts coming up soon!