Showing posts with label Accessories. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Accessories. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 11, 2011

Pinballs

Pinballs: not just for sewing.  Think about it, most women fastened some part of their outfit with straight pins.  I use them to close my gown or jacket, attach the ribbon to my cap, close my kerchief, attach a bow on the gown front, and sometimes to hold or mark other random items (like that pinball on a slippery silk ribbon).  Keeping a few pins nearby just makes sense.  I did find this one image of a woman sewing with what appears to be a pinball, although she's taken it off and set it on the table.  The rest show women with pinballs in all sorts of situations, even a rather fancy woman coming from church!  It's hard to find these images purely because of the tiny size of the object and the difficulty of verifying that it's not a watch, etc.  If you know of any others, please let me know!  I'm trying to expand this collection (and hopefully expand the use of pinballs).



The Mutual Embrace, John Collet 


 A Harlots Progress by Wm Hogarth, 1732



Spring, 1779

Extants
Plain Brown Velvet
Rust Cross-Stitch
Silk Thread Wrapped
Silk Brocade
Two Knitted
Knitted Ship
Knitted Brown & White
Thread Wrapped
Knitted 1759
Knitted Blue & Pink
Crewel Embroidery
Small Embroidery
Winterthur Collection (so much Queen's Stitch!)

It's not really a pinball, but even Indians were making fancy embroidered pincushions.  Just out of Birch bark and Moose hair.  Wow.

Monday, May 9, 2011

Bonnets

While the bonnet is considered the hat of the early 19th century, it has some very distinct roots earlier on.  I found images starting in 1772, consistently appearing until the turn of the century.  A single image from 1740 also appears to show a very bonnet-like hat, a bit different than it's later cousins, but certainly not the plain straw hat often seen.  Another from 1765 is much more like the images below.  There is a much larger variety of sizes, shapes, and trims than I expected to find.  Black does seem to be the most common, but white is also very popular with the more fashionable sort.  Although I've seen pictures of brown, blue, pink, lime green, and even straw!  The basic form seems to be universally worn by all classes.
The biggest problem, however, is the distinct lack of extant examples.  I found only two, very different in style.  I wouldn't be surprised if there were more out there improperly dated to the 19th century, but fortunately the bonnet's popularity is quickly increasing and there may be better research to be had upon it in the near future.
















Reapers, George Stubbs 1785 

 Haymakers, George Stubbs 1785


Extants
Black silk hat, dated late 18th-early 19th, appears very much like Ensign Rosebud or The Invitation
Black silk hat, 1770-80

Pennsylvania Gazette Index of Bonnets
Two other museum images here and here.

Monday, May 2, 2011

Simple Hats

I tried to stick to simpler hats instead of the fashion plate images often seen.  The bonnet style will have it's own post later.  Some of these are a bit more decorated than others, but there seemed to be a fairly repetitive style.  Ribbon, or possibly fabric, is tacked around the crown of the hat.  The level of "puffing" the ribbon seems to vary widely, however.  Some are straw, some covered in silk, some add feathers.  I'm still looking for any other style of simple trimming, but I haven't seen it yet in this type of image.  All images are from the Lewis Walpole Gallery.

















Extant Hats
Straw Hat covered in blue silk
White Satin with appliqued embroidery
Feather-covered begere hat
Silk trimmed with straw applique
Painted straw begere, second similar
Straw Hat with green ribbon trim
Painting of a girl wearing a feathered hat
Straw Hat embroidered with straw
Feather-covered begere hat 2
Straw with trim
Straw with ribbon trim, similar to pictures above
Wool with ribbon
Straw begere
Wool felt with ribbon
Straw with chintz underlining, typical to the Netherlands area
Cream Silk with gauze ribbon

Saturday, April 23, 2011

Cloaks

At first I had a great deal of trouble finding images of cloaks.  I looked through what images I had, searched the Walpole Gallery for key terms like "cold", "winter", "ice", etc.  I found three or four decent ones.  So, I broke down and decided to go the long route and search for "the" and "a".  Over three-hundred pages of results.  I've made it through one-hundred of those and found about twenty good images so far.  They aren't the easiest to read information off of, but I was at least surprised by the lack of longer lengths so far.



















Extant Cloaks
Even though it's not obvious in the images above, red wool certainly seems to be the most common of surviving examples.
Embroidered Silk Satin
Long Red Wool
Long Red Wool, no hood
Silk Brocade, no hood (like Wife at Confession above)
Early Lace Capuchin
Short Figured Silk
Long Red Wool, trimmed with Black Silk
Long Red Wool, quilted collar
Long Red Wool, applied fringe on edges
Short Red Wool, yolked neck
Long Red Wool, buttoned facing
Child's Silk
Long Red Wool, plain (found in Costume Close-Up)
Black Lace