Showing posts with label Research. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Research. Show all posts

Saturday, December 31, 2011

1771 Dishabille

While looking for references to riding habits, I came across this little gem.  I know what the description sounds like to me, but I'd love to hear your opinions (I feel biased).  It's from the Kentish Gazette 28 September 1771.

Dear Madam,
My sister is so impatient for your account of fashionable articles, that she obliged me by this post to give you what she calls the sequel of my last letter. Thus then, in compliance with her orders, I enter upon my description of the dishabille recommended to us by on T----e, a mantua-maker.
The sleeves are close at the wrists, in the nature of your Brunswicks; but, instead of covering the neck, it is fitted to the make of it, and the turn of the shoulder; the back however has no plaits, but is taken in in the same way as a riding habit, and is likewise sloped on the sides, from which and the back it falls elegantly loose, and the slopes, by gradually increasing to the very bottom of the skirt, which is a tolerable length, supplies the whole fullness necessary to make it hang gracefully; it buttons down before with a kind of false stomacher, for the robe itself comes with a loose fold from the top of the sleeve, that forms the front breadths in like manner as the back; the petticoat is of the same and besides its having a very pretty, it has one very singular effect, that it improves the appearance of a fine woman, and conceals every defect in an ill made one: the mantua-maker assures us that it is a recent importation, and that none but a few families, and those of the first distinction, have yet seen it in England.....

Friday, December 30, 2011

Riding Drefs

While searching through the Lewis Walpole Gallery last summer I came across many images of riding habits, not all of which were the typical design we are accustom to seeing.  I started collecting up these to get a better idea of when or what it was.  Although there seems to be a variance of style (two in particular), I'm just going to define what follows as "unfitted Riding Habits", meaning they lack a waist seam.  It seems to come into style along with the Polonaise gown, and some distinctly resemble it down to the wrinkles.  Some are more military in style, one fashion plate of this style defines it as a Bavarian Frock, while the others have a tapering collar with a tie for closure in front.  There were many other images that looked like they might be unfitted, but I really couldn't tell if it was just the artists quick rendition (especially since the arm usually covers the seam).
I was in the Millinery/Tailor shop soon after and Mark Hutter had made a habit based on the Polonaise style (you can see the final product on Sarah here).  He mentioned that it might even be called Riding Habit a la Polonaise.  It took me up until this month to really delve into documents to find any references to that particular style.  I found three potential references to a Riding Habit a la Polonaise (or commonly Polonese), and a few good ideas of colors and interesting comments I'll post at the bottom.

In the Public Advertiser, April 15 of 1779: PARMENTIER, lately from Paris, Ladies Robe and Mantua-maker, makes all sorts of ladies dresses in the present taste; as Polish, Circassian, Italian, and Levee gowns for the country; Caraco a la Provencale, Riding-Habits a la Polonoise, and all sorts of corsets.

In the Morning Post and Daily Advertiser, January 31 of 1775 there is a Habit-Maker advertising that he makes "Masquerade dresses, and a la Polonaise".  I can't quite guarantee he isn't referring to a gown of that style, but it's something to keep in mind once I know more about who made Polonaise gowns (probably dependent on usage since "Polonaise" seems to come up in reference to Masquerades early on).

In the Gazeteer and New Daily Advertiser, January 1 or 1776 there is a long list of items available and prices beside them.  Under "Habits made of:" is Superfine 4 9 0, Cassimere 4 14 6, Neatly Trimmed a la Polonaise 5 5 0, and Ratteen for winter wear 3 13 6.







1781: The Sudden Explosion

Public Advertiser August 23 1776: Grey with Scarlet lining and Stone with Green lining.
Gazeteer and New Daily Advertiser March 14 1777: A lost Riding Habit of "green striped cloth, lined with pink silk and pink silk waistcoat."
Gazeteer and New Daily Advertiser February 1 1779: A "cloth coloured riding habit lined with pink silk".
Gazeteer and New Daily Advertiser May 31 1779: The Duchess of Cumberland seen wearing a "Pea-green" riding dress.
Lloyd's Evening Post August 14 1780: Riding Habit of "Superfine Claret Broad Cloth".
Gazeteer and New Daily Advertiser October 24 1780: A brown Riding Habit lost.


Gazeteer and New Daily Advertiser August 15 of 1776: Riding Habits of kerseymere faced with silk, cloth, silk, jean, jenner, and nankeen.
Gazeteer and New Daily Advertiser November 7 1776: Riding Habit of cassimere.
Bath Chronicle November 6 1777:  Riding Habits are continued to be made in the most fashionable taste in plain or superfine cloth trimmed with silk 5 5, silk waist 5 15, with high-polished steel 6 6, elegant patent buttons 6 16. A dress with French Boullion frogs, and silk waistcoat 7 17 6. Ditto with frogs of gold, silver, and different colour folio, and silk waistcoat trimmed in proportion 8 16 6. Fashionably bound with a striped or flower tissue waistcoat 9 9. Scarlet cloth, half a guinea; striped or spotted 35s. addition to the prices above-mentioned.
Gazeteer and New Daily Advertiser January 31 1778: Riding Habits of cloth faced with silk 5 5 0, with gimp or frogs 5 15 6, jean 4 4 0, nankeen 3 13 6.  In "foreign or English fashion".
London Courant and Westminster Chronicle July 4 1780: Riding Habits of superfine Kerseymere fac'd with silk 5 0 0, superfine cloth fac'd with silk 4 14 6, fine jean or jennet 3 11 0, nankeen 3 0 0.
Gazeteer and New Daily Advertiser October 31 1780: A Riding Habit of cotton with metal buttons.
Caledonian Mercury December 9 1782: "Superfine printed Paoli for fashionable riding habits"

General Evening Post June 13 1778: "The only tonish undress at present among the ladies of all ranks is a scarlet riding habit, faced of the colour that distinguishes the regiment of militia in which their husbands, their lovers, or their keepers now serve, at the different encampments."
Morning Post and Daily Advertiser April 22 1780: "Ladies Riding Hats made peculiarly light, and of the best qualities; of a most delicate white, without the least dusty powder in them, a merrit no other sort of white hats can claim; are also dyed of various fine colours, and if required dyed to match habits. The black are remarkably light, and of superior quality to any yet every offered to the public."

Friday, July 15, 2011

1795-99

This seems to be a crazy time period.  After spending a great deal of time looking at just evening gowns to decide upon mine, there are so many options!  When else do you see so much asymmetry, sleeves a different color than the bodice, contrasting colors, and crazy feathers??  I can only assume this is what happens during a massive fashion shift where they haven't quite mastered designing with the new textiles yet, and still commonly use the old fabrics in silhouettes not quite suited.  Keep an eye out for varying sleeve styles, waist height, neckline shapes, and closures.
This is also the point where I'm going to stop categorizing everything the same way as before.  At least for this five year period, there are too many options.
Sleeves: Long, just above elbow, or short.  All fitted.
Bodice front: Gathered on cord, crossed, or low under bust.
Bodice back: Small diamond shape, some with numerous small pleats.
Skirt: Open and Closed.  Sometimes gathered in front.  Pleated in back, very small up to large box pleats.
Length: Trains common for evening and some afternoon.
Waist: Some natural waists still seen, most at underbust.
Fabrics: Cotton and silk most common.  Small repeated prints and solids.










Friday, June 17, 2011

1790-94

This is the time period where the waist begins to rise.  Many gowns have their waist emphasized by a broad sash (could the appearance of a higher waist have developed from these?).  We can see the transition from the fluff of the late 1780s to the slender column of the 1800s.


Front
Closure: Closed front and Crossed v-necks
Neckline: Broad and rounded or V
Skirt opening: With Fitted bodices 8" plus, with v-necks can be none, Round gowns common
Waistline: Pointed and flat most common

Back
Style: Quarter backs most common, some English still seen
Skirt Pleats: Often less than 1/4", some with cartridge pleats
Shoulder Span: Sleeve corner very high and narrow

Sleeves
Long sleeves in two-part and Elbow length in one-part.

Trim
Sleeves:  Small ruffle at hem of sleeve
Style: Mostly hem ruffle on petticoat, some trim down skirt opening
Edges: Rolled hem
Content: Self-fabric or contrast fabric

Fabric
Solid silk, cotton gauze/muslin, printed cotton, and some embroidered muslins

Shape
Waistline is rising quickly, emphasized by sashes.  The bum has lost fullness, but the puffed kerchief is still common.

















Summer, 1794

Autumn, 1794