Saturday, June 4, 2011

Weekly 4/29-5/4

I've been branching outside of sewing for an occasional break, trying out different forms of silhouette work.  Historically, you can find cut paper, ink, and watercolor.  One I found was a reverse cut of white paper with black silk to fill in the space, the edges worked in detail with watercolor for gauze trim.  I've been doing paper cut for a while, although I have preference to do full body silhouettes in that manner.

This is an inked silhouette on paper, about 4" high.  I'd like to try watercolor on the reverse of glass sometime.

This is a multi-color layered silhouette.  A modern style (they sometimes did paint areas of color though), but based on an 18th century fashion plate.  There's more detail in person that shows in the picture (the flowers are two-toned, etc).  It's about 8" high.

One of my favorites from a while back is based on an 18th century lace pattern.  I sold this one, so alas, I cannot get a better image of it.

I'm beginning to pull together and finish up everything for Under the Redcoat in three weeks.  I've been trimming my polonaise jacket, lasting my first pair of shoes, and trying to decide what to do with the little amount of hair I have (still more than I'm accustomed to).  I do know I would like to try powdering my hair this time.  I've seen good reviews on Bumble & Bumble hair powder as well as Lulu.  I'm leaning towards B&B, just because it seems like it would be an easier (less messy) application in large quantities.  I've faked hair powder on actors before using white hair spray, but that stuff was rather uncontrollable in saturation and horrible to get out (the poor guy had white sections of hair for the whole show run despite numerous showers).
Finishing up threads and ready to make awl holes in the sole.

Sole is finished, last is wrapped in paper to protect the silk (you can see bits of paper in extants!)

Upper is lasted (inside out), ready to start stitching to the sole.

Despite the amount of work I have for the next month, I'm beginning to look ahead to future projects.  At least one 1912 gown is on the horizon, as well as a small trousseau of Civil War garments.  While I have a design for my 1912 (to come later), I can decide on colors.  I purchased some swatches of chiffon the other day looking for a robins egg blue/light aqua, but they were all far too light in tone to be noticed on top of an ivory satin.  I do have so much love for this color combination as well, but I'm not sure it would do well for my design.  It would also require net instead of chiffon, which seems like it would be nastier to machine embroider and not quite what I need.

And then for 1860s, there's this outfit, taunting me with tiny images and no zoom.  I think the trim is pleated velvet ribbon with small edge stripes.  The fringe is chenille with small beads on the ends, I found another jacket at the Kyoto museum with the same (and zoom).  Can't tell if the flowers are applied trim or lace.  Anyone know Danish??


Johanna Elisabet said...

The black flowers on the Tidens toj dress are bobbinlace flowers that has been cut out and sewn to the gown.

ColeV said...

Ooh! Thank you!

Sarah W said...

What Johanna Elisabeth said :)

Cassidy said...

I love that modern/18th century silhouette! It's adorable.

Olivia said...

For powdering hair, I have heard that they might have used flax, actually, you could try that! (From an 1899 french manual for hairdressing that had a substantial section on the "old regime") From my understanding, you apply some type of oil on your hair (well-grease it) so that the flax will stick, and then evenly apply your flax (potato flour that you could probably find at most supermarkets) over your hair with a powder puff. And you could always try tinting it for fun!

PvtSam75 said...

I can't wait to see what you finish for Under the Redcoat, ths shoes look great so far! I've never been down before, but this year we're finally going. Not sure if I'm ging to dress or not, we might just go as tourists...yikes!

I've also got a question for you. Have you ever been the the Costume Design Center yard sale? What are prices like?
Thanks so much!

~Pvt. Sarah Vedrani
HM 10th Foot

ColeV said...

Olivia: I would certainly like to try that someday (just maybe when it doesn't have to last all day outside in 95*). I'm trying to plan a grand outfit to be done next year, perhaps some tinted powder would also be in the mix!
Sarah: I look forward to seeing you! I went to the CDC sale last year, and they had a fairly good selection at great prices, but it went very fast. I didn't purchase anything (I worked with those clothes for two years), so I don't remember prices, but many people were buying "bulk" amounts, so they couldn't have been bad!

Nuranar said...

If you can get a copy of The Cut of Women's Clothes by Nora Waugh, it looks like that 1860s dress is featured in it. You'll get everything you need, from pattern shapes to trim detail and measurements. ;)

ColeV said...

Nuranar: I do have the book, and I too thought it would be in there. It's not, sadly. The only 1860s gown she has is an evening dress. I don't know why they put that book up as a reference.

Anonymous said...

Try Janet Arnold's work "Patterns of Fashion" - THE BEST source, Waugh cannot hold a candle to her.

Jasper said...

great post, I love the art in the middle. the 19th century gown at the end is very interesting as well!