Wednesday, June 1, 2011

1760-64

I'm going to focus mainly on gowns and some jackets for the timeline.  I might come back and do other garments at another point (stays, hats, caps, riding habits, etc).  In order to keep it consistent I'm categorizing the information.

Front
Closure: Stomacher, occasionally with ties or tabs across it.
Neckline: Square, high but wide.
Skirt opening: Almost always 6" or under (some larger by proportion to size)

Back
Style: Both Sacque backs and English backs seen.
Pleats: Large, at least 8" wide at neck.  English pleats 4"+ at waist.
Skirt Pleats: 1/2"+ for English, often none for Sacque (continues from bodice).
Shoulder Span: About 10" before armscye.

Sleeves
1 piece, looser fit, end above elbow.  Pleats at top of shoulder.

Trim
Sleeves:  Large ruffles, often two or three tiers.
Style: Gathered and Pleated.  Waved and Straight.
Edges: Pinked and Trimmed.
Content: Self-fabric, fly-fringe, or lace.

Fabric
Brocades with large prints very common.  Solid Silk Taffeta also common (I found a lot of yellow extants).  Some large embroidery and painted silks as well.

Shape
Very straight, stiff cone bodice.  Wide skirts, over hoops or panniers.  I see a lot of emphasis on width in silhouette and trim, setting off the tiny point at the waist.









Winter, 1762




Air, 1764

Water, 1764


 Mrs. Phillip Thicknesse by Thomas Gainsborough, 1759/60


Mary, Countess of Howe by Thomas Gainsborough, 1764

2 comments:

Nuranar said...

This is fabulous. Thank you so much for putting it together! I'm really looking forward to more installments.

Sarah A said...

Thank you for this info, very useful!