I'm going to focus mainly on gowns and some jackets for the timeline. I might come back and do other garments at another point (stays, hats, caps, riding habits, etc). In order to keep it consistent I'm categorizing the information.
Front
Closure: Stomacher, occasionally with ties or tabs across it.
Neckline: Square, high but wide.
Skirt opening: Almost always 6" or under (some larger by proportion to size)
Back
Style: Both Sacque backs and English backs seen.
Pleats: Large, at least 8" wide at neck. English pleats 4"+ at waist.
Skirt Pleats: 1/2"+ for English, often none for Sacque (continues from bodice).
Shoulder Span: About 10" before armscye.
Sleeves
1 piece, looser fit, end above elbow. Pleats at top of shoulder.
Trim
Sleeves: Large ruffles, often two or three tiers.
Style: Gathered and Pleated. Waved and Straight.
Edges: Pinked and Trimmed.
Content: Self-fabric, fly-fringe, or lace.
Fabric
Brocades with large prints very common. Solid Silk Taffeta also common (I found a lot of yellow extants). Some large embroidery and painted silks as well.
Shape
Very straight, stiff cone bodice. Wide skirts, over hoops or panniers. I see a lot of emphasis on width in silhouette and trim, setting off the tiny point at the waist.
Front
Closure: Stomacher, occasionally with ties or tabs across it.
Neckline: Square, high but wide.
Skirt opening: Almost always 6" or under (some larger by proportion to size)
Back
Style: Both Sacque backs and English backs seen.
Pleats: Large, at least 8" wide at neck. English pleats 4"+ at waist.
Skirt Pleats: 1/2"+ for English, often none for Sacque (continues from bodice).
Shoulder Span: About 10" before armscye.
Sleeves
1 piece, looser fit, end above elbow. Pleats at top of shoulder.
Trim
Sleeves: Large ruffles, often two or three tiers.
Style: Gathered and Pleated. Waved and Straight.
Edges: Pinked and Trimmed.
Content: Self-fabric, fly-fringe, or lace.
Fabric
Brocades with large prints very common. Solid Silk Taffeta also common (I found a lot of yellow extants). Some large embroidery and painted silks as well.
Shape
Very straight, stiff cone bodice. Wide skirts, over hoops or panniers. I see a lot of emphasis on width in silhouette and trim, setting off the tiny point at the waist.
V&A Painted Silk Robe a la Francaise, 1760-65
LACMA Silk Robe a la Francaise, 1760-65
V&A Silk Brocade Robe a l'Anglaise, 1760-69
Winter, 1762
Fair Seamstress, 1764
The Lovely Spinner, 1764
Air, 1764
Water, 1764
Mrs. Phillip Thicknesse by Thomas Gainsborough, 1759/60
Mary, Countess of Howe by Thomas Gainsborough, 1764
2 comments:
This is fabulous. Thank you so much for putting it together! I'm really looking forward to more installments.
Thank you for this info, very useful!
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