Wednesday, June 8, 2011

1775-79

The Polonaise takes over, be it in full Robe a la Polonaise form or just lifted skirts.  Short jackets begin to appear fashionably and the rump is a new source of comedic value for satirists.


Front
Closure: Almost all closed front, a few stomacher fronts still seen in formal dress
Neckline: Very open, rounded corners
Skirt opening: Over 8", almost to sides in some cases
Waistline: Pointed, flat, and curved

Back
Style: English backs and Quarter backs very common, Sacque backs still present but less common
Pleats: Very narrow, some inverted for even smaller look on English backs.
Skirt Pleats: Often less than 1/2", some only 1/4"
Shoulder Span: Sleeve corner very high and pulling in towards center

Sleeves
1 piece, slim fit, often end below elbow point.  A few full length sleeves appear, not clear if one or two piece construction.

Trim
Sleeves:  Some larger ruffles still seen, cuff style trimming very common with small round ruffles.
Style: Many new and creative shapes and styles seen.  Pleating, puffing, gathering all used.
Edges: Pinked or folded edge (either roll-hemmed or folded under)
Content: Self-fabric, contrast fabric, and some gauze

Fabric
Stripes, solid, and some small prints or brocades.

Shape
The front line is beginning to bow out.  Fullness is present in the skirts back and sides, panniers becoming rumps.  I found the silhouette of the skirt shape almost round.


















Summer, 1779

Mrs. Eliot by Thomas Gainsborough, 1778


1 comment:

Unknown said...

Just found your blog. Thank you so much for these detailed five year overviews! Your sketches especially are exactly what I needed to visualize these thing three-dimensionally :) Danke schön!
Calise