Diary of a Mantua Maker: 1770-74

Monday, June 6, 2011

1770-74

I noticed in looking for period images that there seemed to be a running theme after 1771 of macaronis and love (be it courtesans or an old man after a young girl). For our purposes, the fashion still does quite well. I avoided most of the macaroni images because of their blatant exaggeration. As for the fashion itself, I found a great many fancy sheer aprons and Polonaised skirts.

Front

Closure: Stomacher and Closed fronts equally common

Neckline: Much more rounded, with lower necklines

Skirt opening: Varies greatly, often covered by apron

Waistline: Pointed, flat, and curved

Back

Style: Both Sacque backs and English backs seen

Pleats: Narrowing across shoulders, bringing neckline in to match

Skirt Pleats: 1/2" or possibly slightly less

Shoulder Span: Corner of sleeves still distinct, but beginning to narrow and rise slightly

Sleeves

1 piece, slimmer fit, some end below elbow now. Pleats at top of shoulder.

Trim

Sleeves: Large ruffles still seen, great emphasis on the lace portion in size. Some have no fabric ruffles, just simple trim, but most likely had lace/cotton at the time.

Style: Gathered (some single line, more of a ruffle), pleated, puffed. Straight trim of 3" or less width common.

Edges: Pinked most popular

Content: Self-fabric, occasionally in contrasting color

Fabric

Solid silks and occasional stripes. A few painted silks and subtler print brocades still seen (often two-toned).

Shape

Very straight, stiff cone bodice. Skirts width often comes from pulling up the hem, although panniers would still be used. This gathering up of the skirt also pushes more fullness to the back of the gown, rather than the oval shape seen earlier. The widest point is now sitting at the low hip level.