tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-58133543516805998712024-03-13T04:13:16.629-04:00Diary of a Mantua MakerA journal following the process of making historic reproduction clothing and other unusual projects.ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.comBlogger156125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-14334417542587987022016-08-17T21:30:00.000-04:002016-08-17T21:30:00.266-04:00Tailoring Books<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A growing list of free books on the internet dealing with tailoring, drafting, and dressmaking.<br />
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<a href="https://archive.org/stream/taylorsinstructo00quee#page/n5/mode/2up">The Taylor's Instructor, 1809.</a> Figures for men's garments and a ladies habit.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/stream/rulesdirectionsf00jone#page/n1/mode/2up">Rules and Directions for Cutting Men's Clothes, 1822.</a> Basic Drafts.<br />
<a href="http://archive.org/stream/treatiseoncuttin00scot#page/n5/mode/2up">A Treatise on Cutting Garments to Fit the Human Form, 1841</a>. Measuring and numerous drafts for coats, waistcoats, trousers, and more.<br />
<a href="http://archive.org/stream/plainconcisetrea00hull#page/n1/mode/2up">A Plain and Concise Treatise of the Art of Tailoring, 1844</a>. Drafting, unfortunately the plates are not unfolded.<br />
<a href="http://archive.org/stream/archetypalconsum00youn#page/n7/mode/2up">The Archetypal Consummation, 1845.</a> Measurements and drafting for coats and waistcoat.<br />
<a href="http://archive.org/stream/tailorstransfero00acto#page/n3/mode/2up">The Tailor's Transfer, 1846.</a> A method for measuring and drafting.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/details/tailorlondon00londrich">The Tailor, 1840s?</a> The tailors methods, caring for garments, detailed construction, and basic drafts.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/stream/artdutailleur00grev#page/n1/mode/2up">Art du Tailleur, 1855.</a> Drafts to standardized measures.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/stream/manual00glen#page/n5/mode/2up">Manual, 1866.</a> Basic Drafts.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/stream/tailornewsystemo00phyl#page/n7/mode/2up">The Tailor, 1867.</a> Method for measuring and drafting.<br />
<a href="https://books.google.com/books?id=tCIGAAAAQAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=tailoring&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj0y4Xrht_NAhUJ7oMKHZN3DOk4xgUQ6AEIMzAF#v=onepage&q&f=false">Gazette of Fashion, 1868/9.</a> Fashion plates and their drafts.<br />
<a href="https://books.google.com/books?id=FSgGAAAAQAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=tailoring&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj_saDiht_NAhUF6IMKHRAjBiI4sgUQ6AEINzAF#v=onepage&q&f=false">Gazette of Fashion, 1869/70.</a> Fashion plates and their drafts.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/stream/hmathesonsscient00math#page/n3/mode/2up">H. Matheson's Scientific and Practical Guide, 1871.</a> Cutting layouts and fashion plates.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/stream/divisionalexactm00lint#page/n5/mode/2up">Systems for Garment Cutting, 1872.</a> Basic Drafts.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/stream/scientificguidet00glen#page/n5/mode/2up">A Scientific Guide to Practical Cutting, 1873.</a> Basic Drafts.<br />
<a href="https://books.google.com/books?id=tTMGAAAAQAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=tailoring&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjYy5GDht_NAhUC44MKHQ7FCVE4pgQQ6AEIITAB#v=onepage&q&f=false">Gazette of Fashion, 1881.</a> Fashion plates and their drafts.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/stream/vestcuttingmanua00heck#page/n5/mode/2up">Vest Cutting, 1883.</a> A variety of vest drafts.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/stream/practicalhandboo00voge#page/n5/mode/2up">Practical Handbook for Tailors & Seamstresses, 1883.</a> Basic Drafts.<br />
<a href="https://books.google.com/books?id=3vkoAAAAYAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=tailoring&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjH3tLQhd_NAhUM64MKHe8qAyI41gMQ6AEIGzAA#v=onepage&q&f=false">Standard Work on Cutting, 1886</a>. Basic Drafts.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/stream/scienceofcoatves00kenn#page/n7/mode/2up">The Science of Coat and Vest Cutting, 1891.</a> Basic Drafts.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/stream/stonesparamountc00ston#page/n5/mode/2up">Stone's Paramount Cutter, 1891.</a> Basic Drafts.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/stream/garmentcuttingin00hert#page/n5/mode/2up">Garment Cutting in the 20th century, 1892</a>. Basic Drafts.<br />
<a href="https://books.google.com/books?id=KV5YAAAAYAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=tailoring&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjPttjqhd_NAhXIx4MKHYgEBrc49AMQ6AEIRjAI#v=onepage&q&f=false">The American Tailor & Cutter, 1892.</a> Basic Drafts.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/details/americancoatvest00gord">The American Coat, Vest, & Trousers System, 1895.</a> Basic Drafts.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/stream/moderndesignerwo00bish#page/n9/mode/2up">The Modern Designer, 1900.</a> Basic Drafts.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/stream/americanizedfren00prou#page/n5/mode/2up">The Americanized French Cutting System, 1906</a>. Basic Drafts.<br />
<a href="https://books.google.com/books?id=YkAyAQAAMAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=tailoring&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiJ0sfcht_NAhVG5YMKHZ-yAQM4qAUQ6AEIGzAA#v=onepage&q&f=false">The A.D. Rude Great Modern System, 1906.</a> Basic Drafts.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/stream/grandeditionofsu00croo#page/n7/mode/2up">Grand Edition of Supreme System, 1907.</a> Large variety of drafts.<br />
<a href="https://books.google.com/books?id=mso2AQAAMAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=tailoring&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjX6vLehd_NAhWh7oMKHZGsAQQ46gMQ6AEIOjAF#v=onepage&q&f=false">The Standard Work on Cutting, 1908</a>. Women's drafts for tailors.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/stream/stonesscientific00ston#page/n5/mode/2up">Stone's Scientific System, 1912</a>. Grading drafts.<br />
<a href="https://books.google.com/books?id=qTUyAQAAMAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=tailoring&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjCxuDNht_NAhWny4MKHVkPCm84lAUQ6AEIJjAC#v=onepage&q&f=false">New Supreme System, 1917.</a> Large variety of drafts.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/stream/designingsackcoa00simo#page/n3/mode/2up">Designing Sack Coats, Dress Coats, & Vests, 1918.</a> Basic Drafts.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/stream/streiffsidealsys00stre#page/n1/mode/2up">Streiff's Ideal System of Garment Cutting, 1920.</a> Basic Drafts.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/stream/CAT87203733/farmbul1894#page/n1/mode/2up">Coat Making at Home, 1941</a>. Instructional tips, including fur trim.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/stream/howtotailorwoman591smit#page/n1/mode/2up">How to Tailor a Woman's Suit, 1946</a>. Step-by-step instructions.<br />
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<a href="https://archive.org/details/casneausguidefor00casn">Artistic Dressmaking and Cutting, 1895</a>. Construction for basque and skirt.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/details/instructionbook00evan">Standard Tailor System, 1896</a>. Drafts for women and children.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/details/twentiethcentury00vien">Artistic Ladies' Tailor System, 1902.</a> Drafts and instructions for men, women, and children.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/details/margaretjblairss00blai">System of Garment Drafting, 1904</a>. Dressmaking drafts for women and children.<br />
<a href="https://archive.org/details/americansystemof02merw">The American System of Dressmaking, 1907.</a> Construction techniques, including "Tailor-made suits"</div>
ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-2287467832042745972016-04-18T12:28:00.001-04:002022-12-08T12:01:06.871-05:00Finished Suits 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I launched myself back into tailoring women's garments last Spring with this 1914 suit. I based the design on a few photographs of women at Longchamps or in Paris. (I'd love to have sources for either of these beyond the Tumblr/Pinterest infinite circle).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDCRbDftPzE5eXcUKKgqpdkew-pV4qncVGmoDKoJWz0zSZL8SoOnyjwlBlTMn40-JGlcMC2E8WsvvFqb0V8qZbxBtK1zwK_ratjfxY_W9zrL2sujgNIiMaf9TLuu2q5JiFUw3H1aSlE2I/s1600/e0b6bee6d77dbe007ac957e1deda1f88.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDCRbDftPzE5eXcUKKgqpdkew-pV4qncVGmoDKoJWz0zSZL8SoOnyjwlBlTMn40-JGlcMC2E8WsvvFqb0V8qZbxBtK1zwK_ratjfxY_W9zrL2sujgNIiMaf9TLuu2q5JiFUw3H1aSlE2I/s320/e0b6bee6d77dbe007ac957e1deda1f88.jpg" width="233" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhceLxNoiaWxuuU7sz0N2Wnd9Hw_5LZUUgMXU91wUczZwbPBSw7mYDe1KvBlLmYBEmhT1S7CSHW6OeD7m25EmeMmN_ZVIfnyuUsD5MwomtrlJaVNp6T7JiO5cqeQuzuJ-U6bJUg5M6t4-4/s1600/tumblr_m9vyntgC0b1qircwfo1_500.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhceLxNoiaWxuuU7sz0N2Wnd9Hw_5LZUUgMXU91wUczZwbPBSw7mYDe1KvBlLmYBEmhT1S7CSHW6OeD7m25EmeMmN_ZVIfnyuUsD5MwomtrlJaVNp6T7JiO5cqeQuzuJ-U6bJUg5M6t4-4/s320/tumblr_m9vyntgC0b1qircwfo1_500.jpg" width="222" /></a></div>
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The pattern itself was drafted from <a href="http://historyoffashiondesign.com/thorntons-international-system-of-ladies-garment-cutting/">Thorton's</a>, starting with the "Shoulder-cut Jacket" and making a few alterations to get the right lapel shape.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPDRBR7J5Qkr1_o_fEc_9feXEA5HAc0cuEGxHAJ4Te2b_xpS8vXSAtkwsU_jWPwYCsvPdIZIYYux9rHv-vHtg8P7tiHcHa36OkLVbICfOuLI0IOVuND-6lSyKVkAMlwgtVBknqw5WsPwQ/s1600/716.jpg"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPDRBR7J5Qkr1_o_fEc_9feXEA5HAc0cuEGxHAJ4Te2b_xpS8vXSAtkwsU_jWPwYCsvPdIZIYYux9rHv-vHtg8P7tiHcHa36OkLVbICfOuLI0IOVuND-6lSyKVkAMlwgtVBknqw5WsPwQ/s320/716.jpg" width="231" /></a></div>
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The skirt is the "New Peg-top Skirt". </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgABqdS2JxQj7V6VG2drxyJHE5UM6H7WGVUAP8SbwBQAdIF29ovogllk21dSVg1mLqqFek9pyGEw8xAAsRTQYDDLrIv7jr512hDDnyNPhDQm5I16EkELcHEqvArnOfJZ0W2PUoWWQat_EI/s1600/1191.jpg"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgABqdS2JxQj7V6VG2drxyJHE5UM6H7WGVUAP8SbwBQAdIF29ovogllk21dSVg1mLqqFek9pyGEw8xAAsRTQYDDLrIv7jr512hDDnyNPhDQm5I16EkELcHEqvArnOfJZ0W2PUoWWQat_EI/s320/1191.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
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The fabric is a heavy wool, from Burnley & Trowbridge, that has the most amazing hand of anything I've ever worked with. I bought all they had left and still lament I don't have more! The waistcoat is a twill linen with a glossy sheen. Accessorized with Italian leather gloves I bought in Florence, this is one of my favorite ensembles I've ever made.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil_fG9n-gLIL-DrxwknZZedo6NHldqkND2A6dKqe4O1RSzxQtJdahd2oHyYm0tPUOKbOt2vHO8c-LVfde7UeiF7egcSimH-2rVJyWdUFlP3I0dG6mWXG8mzBeaMdPhELi9XOtkFbl2_7I/s1600/2015-03-22+11.22.47.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil_fG9n-gLIL-DrxwknZZedo6NHldqkND2A6dKqe4O1RSzxQtJdahd2oHyYm0tPUOKbOt2vHO8c-LVfde7UeiF7egcSimH-2rVJyWdUFlP3I0dG6mWXG8mzBeaMdPhELi9XOtkFbl2_7I/s400/2015-03-22+11.22.47.jpg" width="217" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcOMdEzhVDiPzN9f12gFRlocoXE8wVY6WKNgcdYW5_xdWLwrCYvT8YPl1A0EHRhFchBQBbkGnt3HlB5iSM8FgcCkkDGT-XAr2-tmRz_85KUWtSpHKvTHMJMClZFLO8QxNlMiniv_O6y88/s1600/2015-03-22+11.23.14.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcOMdEzhVDiPzN9f12gFRlocoXE8wVY6WKNgcdYW5_xdWLwrCYvT8YPl1A0EHRhFchBQBbkGnt3HlB5iSM8FgcCkkDGT-XAr2-tmRz_85KUWtSpHKvTHMJMClZFLO8QxNlMiniv_O6y88/s400/2015-03-22+11.23.14.jpg" width="237" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioE4RGOJPA9OjA-_NkxDO1br87bUmHMHa4QnQomXeB1xtSEUmI-iHbBydvl0Zqmo1wyDgQds1Paw9hktUw3QYUepj7qbBfqlHYciTubR2Eq-ruHyVhn_uo3lXAnGZXzMSUgEPNWH0-RK8/s1600/2015-03-22+11.23.18.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioE4RGOJPA9OjA-_NkxDO1br87bUmHMHa4QnQomXeB1xtSEUmI-iHbBydvl0Zqmo1wyDgQds1Paw9hktUw3QYUepj7qbBfqlHYciTubR2Eq-ruHyVhn_uo3lXAnGZXzMSUgEPNWH0-RK8/s400/2015-03-22+11.23.18.jpg" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMTxm2D0cZY2ii2zWsY18ntdHPBTIKMufka65e24Fqk9hct9Scbu2uHlNNKPYs4smFu023LGskQ33ZEtXKXWGs6ZYJmXBZ6uyn9pJqDgQnXgRxWTLfUS3K70_lGHRBR5WELRS8WGbB8Fc/s1600/2015-03-22+11.23.33.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMTxm2D0cZY2ii2zWsY18ntdHPBTIKMufka65e24Fqk9hct9Scbu2uHlNNKPYs4smFu023LGskQ33ZEtXKXWGs6ZYJmXBZ6uyn9pJqDgQnXgRxWTLfUS3K70_lGHRBR5WELRS8WGbB8Fc/s400/2015-03-22+11.23.33.jpg" width="231" /></a></div>
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I didn't take nearly as many photographs of the process as I should have, but there are at least a couple of important ones. I tailored the jacket very similar to how men's coats would have been done during that time. The waistcoat also had a layer of canvas in it, but there wasn't any pad-stitching.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbX9BaPErp6mo_L6v55sqaGVY4hgS631U8lS-CurCuHuLrjEavkOvk7ishOT8eIv8Vlo25LKhWOXArxyLcBJMPb7JRTfrrWsgVUepjLC__4CRdSN1Zm6NApxPrZVq6A6o_ffYj3XY1cUw/s1600/2015-03-02+20.22.08.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbX9BaPErp6mo_L6v55sqaGVY4hgS631U8lS-CurCuHuLrjEavkOvk7ishOT8eIv8Vlo25LKhWOXArxyLcBJMPb7JRTfrrWsgVUepjLC__4CRdSN1Zm6NApxPrZVq6A6o_ffYj3XY1cUw/s320/2015-03-02+20.22.08.jpg" width="284" /></a></div>
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Linen buckram for the main body with horsehair for the chest.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuGnGAyRsL8Y2BxfXcOKSZCtp5lBR9eJ1IqSpbMI55axB6T9g3dYXnw-73GjkfzuqkUcC3ezb7l4fdphOCjKaSbI4EglgFHOnJbFL4uEvnnw98GBtAfTA1L2exnO9NadhjGAoMPog8nrw/s1600/2015-03-02+22.46.35.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuGnGAyRsL8Y2BxfXcOKSZCtp5lBR9eJ1IqSpbMI55axB6T9g3dYXnw-73GjkfzuqkUcC3ezb7l4fdphOCjKaSbI4EglgFHOnJbFL4uEvnnw98GBtAfTA1L2exnO9NadhjGAoMPog8nrw/s320/2015-03-02+22.46.35.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Once pad-stitched together a strip of tailors tape keeps the ends of the hair from poking. There was also a layer of flannel that covered to just outside of this piece.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisLK-sReDTGl8vLpa1l0HXAPkzZ-D7Ef_6SoZC8qBT69ayAox40p4wCPghnZDW9lYN6Rn3AxVdf7P8ABAHQVvxZVvSNFnToK_Z3GjDXgVUJvO4e3e4yeg09cud0a5XO3tf1Vi7ingMiyo/s1600/2015-03-04+21.33.02.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisLK-sReDTGl8vLpa1l0HXAPkzZ-D7Ef_6SoZC8qBT69ayAox40p4wCPghnZDW9lYN6Rn3AxVdf7P8ABAHQVvxZVvSNFnToK_Z3GjDXgVUJvO4e3e4yeg09cud0a5XO3tf1Vi7ingMiyo/s320/2015-03-04+21.33.02.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Ironing done to stretch and shrink the neck and shoulder areas before applying the canvas (which was worked with darts, splits, and ironing to achieve the same shape).</div>
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The hat was made from a buckram shape, rounded to fit a head, and I added on the buckram for the brim shape. It was then finished off with wire and tape and covered in a silk-mix fabric (the same lines the jacket). The feathers are an antique spray that easily pins in.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC_qBX70kSXfmV6sCuv25oHIXwowd3Che1XqbS-FY5BG5IRIolM8RVwafWYkhZ-RMC_3q3TddvAN_P2srWBGTCHxhwZFsR7mv7qx4W_EumaJZGbDELGO1kTPPxsOhKelKfAItv_5dhKOs/s1600/Hat.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC_qBX70kSXfmV6sCuv25oHIXwowd3Che1XqbS-FY5BG5IRIolM8RVwafWYkhZ-RMC_3q3TddvAN_P2srWBGTCHxhwZFsR7mv7qx4W_EumaJZGbDELGO1kTPPxsOhKelKfAItv_5dhKOs/s400/Hat.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Back in 2012 I made all of the undergarments needed for this time, just in case I wanted to use them for some of the Titanic projects I was doing. I ended up choosing to go corsetless for the dinner (thank goodness), so these pieces had never really been used.</div>
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A bottom slip of cotton using wide eyelet lace for the bottom and for a sort of empire style top section (gathered on a bit to allow for bust room). It buttons up the back and ribbons threaded through the eyelet pattern work as straps (and can also be removed if the straps are visible on an evening gown style).</div>
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The corset is a layer of coutil and a thin (but strong) figured cotton. The boning channels are made from strips of coutil.</div>
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There was a project series done that year with making 1912 patterns available digitally. This slip was one of them, though not quite finished in the picture. There is lace inset between each piece and it too buttons up the back. This goes over the other slip and corset.</div>
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ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-52074684850200563122016-03-15T14:52:00.001-04:002016-03-15T14:54:17.593-04:00Finished Suits I<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Taking a break this week from instruction so I can catch up and get pictures of a few detail options like pockets and buttonholes. Instead, I figured I'd show you some of the finished pieces I've been using as examples.<br />
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First is a 1940s coat made using <a href="http://wearinghistory.clothing/product/veronica-1940s-coat-pattern/">Wearing History's Veronica pattern</a>. I chose a Pendleton wool plaid for the outer and a rayon bemberg lining, which I usually get from Britex. It's weird for me, but I didn't make any alterations to the pattern, just used the smaller sleeve top provided as an adjustment. I did end up with a much more complex interfacing than was instructed or needed, however. This was the coat I used for as the main example in <a href="http://mantuadiary.blogspot.com/2016/03/collars-lapels.html">Collars & Lapels</a> as well as <a href="http://mantuadiary.blogspot.com/2016/02/tailoring-stitches.html">Tailoring Stitches</a>, so there's plenty in those posts about it's construction!<br />
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This 1950s suit was a much more complex process. I purchased a single sheet French pattern on Etsy and it came with minimal instruction. I had to adjust the size of the pattern down a fair amount after copying it to individual pieces, but it's still a little larger than I would like. I based the interfacing structure on a couple of examples I was able to handle, trying for the New Look stiff hips. I used an olive wool from <a href="http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/">Burnley & Trowbridge</a> (I stocked up on wools from them recently, so expect quite a few suits!).<br />
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ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-78161958829274929032016-03-07T18:20:00.001-05:002016-03-07T18:20:32.744-05:00Collars & Lapels<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This will be a walk-through of a very basic construction for the collar and lapels. There are so many different ways to adjust this, particularly around the shoulder area. As I continue making different styles of suits I'll make more posts of their innards, but this will stand as a good base.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4d4GcsFfOoRHh7ECt3aI-qPXKcfgD-7jEJs6adU3Myw5qmJAKFdwNZS6PPhWWt7veyT6CpP0wzfOFUeqSjrIzNxscZkKrhxPdNo7rDVHSNnnO8CqRRRPWM2sbpDGhP7aCGlpnlD9ljxM/s1600/2015-03-02+22.46.35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4d4GcsFfOoRHh7ECt3aI-qPXKcfgD-7jEJs6adU3Myw5qmJAKFdwNZS6PPhWWt7veyT6CpP0wzfOFUeqSjrIzNxscZkKrhxPdNo7rDVHSNnnO8CqRRRPWM2sbpDGhP7aCGlpnlD9ljxM/s400/2015-03-02+22.46.35.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Before we baste the interfacing to the fronts we need to complete any work done to it like darts, splits, or extra layers. The darts are worked by cutting down the center of the dart, overlapping, and cross-stitching both raw edges down. You'll see the same method used below for seaming. If there are multiple layers involved, as above, they'll need to be pad-stitched together and any taping of the edges done. I then pad-stitched a flannel layer over the horsehair section.</div>
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The finished interfacing layer is then basted onto the front. Baste along the inside edge as well as up the outside and along the roll line. Don't baste around the collar because the pad-stitching will shift that edge.</div>
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Tailors tape is stitched along the roll-line. You can end the tape before the seam allowance on both ends or leave the top long to extend into the collar later. I've used both, but haven't found enough of a difference to have a preference yet.</div>
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The collar is then pad-stitched.</div>
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Trim back the seam allowance and pin tailors tape around the edges. I prefer to do it inside of the stitching line so the fold isn't as bulky, but you can set it further out so it's stitched through when attaching the facing later.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixAlr4ey828dQJt8Mm2dmuxKuk7JdDjfiITsgGaZzFHZ8YNxHRH42ySYQJe0CJblIxk88Iw69kCEHMwpwvoXUhm21UNQBqC9Ew7z56yzh2DsfGd5is5awIuH1p6R_6-n2UwaL714PR8vQ/s1600/2016-02-16+16.35.35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixAlr4ey828dQJt8Mm2dmuxKuk7JdDjfiITsgGaZzFHZ8YNxHRH42ySYQJe0CJblIxk88Iw69kCEHMwpwvoXUhm21UNQBqC9Ew7z56yzh2DsfGd5is5awIuH1p6R_6-n2UwaL714PR8vQ/s400/2016-02-16+16.35.35.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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The tape is stitched down, making sure to press everything well to reduce bulk.</div>
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The collar interfacing is cut on the bias, just as the undercover is. The seam is overlapped and cross-stitched. I basted only along the roll line. If I had not kept the front tailors tape long I would have placed some across this line at this point.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxOJ69WoAYDeRkCKg4oTZyLoFhcjcp4F64v4F0H9HqjHk2LUywwXUg12rVB6CMYmEcsPMU5PMQaxUHlHzp_2wqKzy4yCHObG_jMPG_uV59ngp2NZNh5t3V2hB3y9_jDoHG4SrGU7p5FxU/s1600/2016-02-17+11.19.31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="157" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxOJ69WoAYDeRkCKg4oTZyLoFhcjcp4F64v4F0H9HqjHk2LUywwXUg12rVB6CMYmEcsPMU5PMQaxUHlHzp_2wqKzy4yCHObG_jMPG_uV59ngp2NZNh5t3V2hB3y9_jDoHG4SrGU7p5FxU/s400/2016-02-17+11.19.31.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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After pad-stitching the collar into shape, trim back the seam allowance. The collar can be hand or machine finished. I always hand-stitch the neck seam, but vary on the outer edges. Whatever edges will be handworked should be folded over and cross-stitched down.</div>
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When it comes to the body being assembled there are a few options for the interfacings. They can be left a little long and brought out to overlap the open seams and cross-stitched down to them, caught in the seam being stitched, or cut back and the seam allowance stitched down to them. If you aren't using an interfacing that will extend and support the entire shoulder seam you'll need to tape the seam. In some cases the shoulder pad is inserted between the interfacing and exterior (and pad-stitched in); that seam will also be taped.</div>
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The collar is overlapped onto the neck and felled down. The seam is then opened and pressed.</div>
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The front neck seam allowance is folded down and cross-stitched to the interfacing. It's left loose along the back.</div>
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The tailors tape is stitched across if you're using this method. It doesn't need to extend all the way to center back.</div>
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After the front facing is attached the seam allowance is folded to the interfacing and cross-stitched down.</div>
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Fold the facing back and press. The neck edge is felled and the inside edge cross-stitched.</div>
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The upper collar is then attached, the seam allowance stitched down if done by machine before turning. If by hand the edge is felled instead. The neck edge is then clipped at the shoulder seams, the front edge folded back and felled to create a finished seam, the back is left hanging down and will be covered by the lining (if not lining then all is folded and felled).</div>
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ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-56806874986541243052016-03-01T16:19:00.000-05:002016-03-01T16:19:04.331-05:00Cutting<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The next step in our tailoring process will be the actual cutting of the fabric. While you may be using a pattern complete with seam allowances, facings, and details, many pre-1950s patterns will be missing these pieces. If you are drafting your own you'll find it necessary to account for all of these in the process as well. In my case I'll often adjust the modern patterns, or at least double check, for many of the details I prefer to have.<br />
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<u>Seam Allowances</u><br />
In professional tailoring seam allowances are not put on to the pattern. This is standard practice for all time periods and something I swear by. A great deal of tailoring is done by hand, but even in the case of machining the seams it helps to have the actual stitching line drawn or basted out. This practice is done with corsetry as well- if every seam is cut just a little wide and adds 1/16" it can be disastrous overall. There is no standard size of allowance either. It varies widely depending on the area of the pattern, the fabric, and personal preference. I consider 1/2" to be my "standard", though I'll cut anywhere from 1/4" to 1 1/2" on the same piece.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaBs4SkXVbk-IpELDrBSAqsENvOesfD2Yp2QudAJPRhvxjf4xiAgKBd1JYKJ3u9SY2JGHx-shtU76uwszIz0uRn_u7g3bJgE7Mf5ef7dR4XRd7xr4Jpp_37fU1amgDcL_n6Brph7wcNlE/s1600/2016-03-01+14.34.27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaBs4SkXVbk-IpELDrBSAqsENvOesfD2Yp2QudAJPRhvxjf4xiAgKBd1JYKJ3u9SY2JGHx-shtU76uwszIz0uRn_u7g3bJgE7Mf5ef7dR4XRd7xr4Jpp_37fU1amgDcL_n6Brph7wcNlE/s320/2016-03-01+14.34.27.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I generally add extra to the center back just in case the shoulders end up too narrow. The side of the front piece to adjust for overall size, but also a flare to the fronts armscye in case it needs to be taken in. The shoulder excess is due to my large shoulders being a common problem, but it's useful if doing an older pattern where our modern shape and posture might be an issue. The neckline I sometimes add to, but mostly when working on a body that has a tendency towards bad posture. If the head is kept further forward the collar will gap in the back.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj9DUZQzPCO2Yzab2ap_GK_SlZA6BPg-C_dcthk2wpcxbguV5tm8Lp0VupibaH7PjCR-V9cfhSe081UZGYCCsGxZwz1EvdgGKbT16z_avcVyo4nC6jIsLkjsMLFYRLutKPgPl8YdNA800/s1600/2016-03-01+14.34.35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj9DUZQzPCO2Yzab2ap_GK_SlZA6BPg-C_dcthk2wpcxbguV5tm8Lp0VupibaH7PjCR-V9cfhSe081UZGYCCsGxZwz1EvdgGKbT16z_avcVyo4nC6jIsLkjsMLFYRLutKPgPl8YdNA800/s320/2016-03-01+14.34.35.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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For the sleeves I only add extra to the curve of the upper in case of fitting issues. If your pattern is for something tight in the sleeve then adding more to the allowances of the top piece would be a good choice. The extra at the bottom of the seam is if you are dealing with a vent. This can definitely be stitched on in different ways, but if you can remember to do it this can be easier.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiid4kKE11L7XncDvScGhqjl55bGoU_RDvkuZi3zvOe6ov_mVTkj-AbEAlaDoVzsuejCBznVwdVERsvLYaWCbaLtoU92QP2ZLTeJniluxPj-hlzVXHUbwoiUVvyYiTJaNaIJUVsltufs-E/s1600/2016-03-01+14.34.48.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiid4kKE11L7XncDvScGhqjl55bGoU_RDvkuZi3zvOe6ov_mVTkj-AbEAlaDoVzsuejCBznVwdVERsvLYaWCbaLtoU92QP2ZLTeJniluxPj-hlzVXHUbwoiUVvyYiTJaNaIJUVsltufs-E/s320/2016-03-01+14.34.48.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Most of the extra goes into the back of a pair of trousers, not just in the out and in seams, but flaring out the center back seam. You'll find this done even in modern men's suit trousers because it allows for you to adjust the waist measurement later (unlike the extras in the jacket, trousers keep their larger seam allowances). The weird shapes on the side seam are for a pocket on the seam. No matter how large I make the hips in my trousers I can never get it enough that that style of pocket doesn't gap. So, rather than have pocketing visible I make sure that the back extends far enough.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDdOfGRIuKysqnu2NOF_cqbf2lNGYJ3nm23b_NaSTME8_yTo3ZdA6cghHjjMvQHp-iab23ggLMcxxmGgaZb1ZIRD4gFBKLR3dGrurj0ZCP8ynFyA23OwEkIl_ktkOf_e2MfD4PgLdOsU4/s1600/2016-01-17+17.09.30-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDdOfGRIuKysqnu2NOF_cqbf2lNGYJ3nm23b_NaSTME8_yTo3ZdA6cghHjjMvQHp-iab23ggLMcxxmGgaZb1ZIRD4gFBKLR3dGrurj0ZCP8ynFyA23OwEkIl_ktkOf_e2MfD4PgLdOsU4/s400/2016-01-17+17.09.30-1.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Remember to stitch just inside of the chalked stitch lines so not to add the width of the line itself to the pattern. I do the same with the cut line, cutting just inside.</div>
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<u>Grown-on</u><br />
In addition to regular seam allowances you might decide to put in elements like pockets on a seam or buttoned vents on a jacket sleeve. These can have pieces seamed on, but it's much easier to cut them on ahead of time, reducing bulk along the edges. The fly for a pair of trousers can also be included in this.<br />
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<u>Facings & Upper Collar</u><br />
These have similar needs, both expecting to be rolled. If these pattern pieces are not provided for you'll need to adjust the front and under collar slightly. In order to have these roll over the outside and not pull they'll be ever so slightly larger- only about 1/8" larger around the outside edges. The front facings will only cover part of the inside of the front, usually going from mid-shoulder and down to around 4" at the hem. If the shoulder has a dart, which is common in women's jackets, the lining can accommodate this rather than the facing.<br />
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<u>Under Collar</u><br />
This is typically cut on the bias with a seam down the middle. The interfacing for the collar is cut the same way.<br />
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<u>Hems</u><br />
1 1/2" or 2" is a comfortable hem size for the bottom of a jacket or sleeves. I sometimes go a little over for pants, but 2" is preferable there as well.<br />
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<u>Linings</u><br />
There's not going to be a huge difference between your lining pattern and your regular pattern. It's important to leave at least 1" seam allowance center back so that you can put in a slight pleat from neck to wait. The outer fabric usually has a bit more stretch than the lining so it prevents stress across the shoulders. You'll also account for the front facing and not needing as much hem. I either cut on the fold line for the hem or add 1/2".<br />
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<u>Interfacings</u><br />
This can seem like the most complex part of cutting simply because there are rarely separate pattern pieces or instructions for this section. Keep in mind that you should add on seam allowance for these pieces, even if you are going to trim it down in the end. Pad-stitching and slight cutting differences are much easier to correct for after everything is basted and stitched together. Other small interfacings like those for pocket slits or sleeve hems I cut as I get to them, often utilizing scraps.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqIx8BysDVv6FJViO6EIbmUut3H858E5EvtWUIfnZJWJO3IckW-gN2WzkTZjnOjBJ0aMMSaoOfrmRrN4qxr1fxdWHxJtVaxUpfXzgt_qRfNXfDdihOQoVo3ciphmLJwXhESNBFmqqK7dI/s1600/2015-03-02+20.22.08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqIx8BysDVv6FJViO6EIbmUut3H858E5EvtWUIfnZJWJO3IckW-gN2WzkTZjnOjBJ0aMMSaoOfrmRrN4qxr1fxdWHxJtVaxUpfXzgt_qRfNXfDdihOQoVo3ciphmLJwXhESNBFmqqK7dI/s320/2015-03-02+20.22.08.jpg" width="284" /></a></div>
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This example is from a 1914 women's suit I constructed. The main body is buckram and the chest piece is horsehair. There is piecing that will be cross-stitched on both sides. The roll line and shoulder dart are marked. This style is the full width of the shoulder coming down to a point because of the jacket shape. If the jacket had a straight front it would be roughly 3-4" wide at the hem.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFj6v_tJTaIUNbt6iAePT4WATTqyJpgg5EZsKE9judU1GzQtpY6aUou4fE5OsT__wRlLccSdLPtxpMOpKoqZzc-asBD5XpoZHJgEn7P-Y_e_zOKXEZUYHUh2rKXrT2zk15eO0i0F0sV1Y/s1600/2016-01-26+11.21.19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFj6v_tJTaIUNbt6iAePT4WATTqyJpgg5EZsKE9judU1GzQtpY6aUou4fE5OsT__wRlLccSdLPtxpMOpKoqZzc-asBD5XpoZHJgEn7P-Y_e_zOKXEZUYHUh2rKXrT2zk15eO0i0F0sV1Y/s400/2016-01-26+11.21.19.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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This 1950s coat uses medium weight hymo for the body and no second layer in the chest. The shape not only is the width of the shoulder, but extends to the side seam as well.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisgHtD-UXhC3M4CqqD-pfpYn2CD2IAubnEP4PnbmXP874IPorsLAHUvuwJe8PbUqUw4y9sbp7bOHqfB0-cm3k7hPzMBXV94GQS4pZ6_v9LLaNK6_R3CmKXv_TfisDW5T2lmykJ8jYW2ag/s1600/2016-01-31+16.28.46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisgHtD-UXhC3M4CqqD-pfpYn2CD2IAubnEP4PnbmXP874IPorsLAHUvuwJe8PbUqUw4y9sbp7bOHqfB0-cm3k7hPzMBXV94GQS4pZ6_v9LLaNK6_R3CmKXv_TfisDW5T2lmykJ8jYW2ag/s320/2016-01-31+16.28.46.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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A two layer interfacing was put in around the hem after the body was assembled, about 8" wide. This was done to achieve the Dior New Look style iconic of the early 1950s. The first layer was the same hymo, the second of horsehair. This has a back seam and side seams to keep with the curve of the jacket.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwc-KVQzOltAN_8mfXGzbxRPvnFqsmRl62olkpG23LAa6y5YnM4nqHlTPntpxBTlGZeeUamZqOnPZzVJ62XOm4ZK-DEHR0I8-gDBZ3cx4_W-rEAnIKjFjVKwSG6nI0_PodXJDDVEOEoJU/s1600/2016-02-16+12.21.38.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwc-KVQzOltAN_8mfXGzbxRPvnFqsmRl62olkpG23LAa6y5YnM4nqHlTPntpxBTlGZeeUamZqOnPZzVJ62XOm4ZK-DEHR0I8-gDBZ3cx4_W-rEAnIKjFjVKwSG6nI0_PodXJDDVEOEoJU/s400/2016-02-16+12.21.38.jpg" width="171" /></a></div>
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Less coverage is also an option. This interfacing of a 1940s overcoat doesn't extend the full width of the shoulder. It's done in a heavy hymo, mostly because I have a lot of that fabric sitting around and the heavier weight of the wool allows for it to be used.</div>
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ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-36617719107768881012016-02-22T15:02:00.001-05:002016-02-23T17:58:00.422-05:00Tailoring Stitches<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The next step in our series is to understand some of the stitches regularly used in tailoring that you may not know from regular sewing work.<br />
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<u>Thread Marking</u></div>
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This is done before the pattern is removed from the cut fabric to note placement of things like buttonholes, pockets, darts, or even seam allowances and corners. It's a slightly more accurate and long-lasting way to mark fabric instead of chalk. I admit I am far more prone to using chalk, but it's a habit I really need to break.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihqlV9gcECnbhrFBOSw1F39Hsim558pvAY5YiiLYhZPSHT6sPropD8WICRj6ovErw50noqQxAQ1_CCpNgLfse8em_df8Ea7D3u4cb3ixPJU8oY4Q_W8zpwl08bxw95ZFzWHrW5-Zcvs4A/s1600/2016-02-19+10.44.39.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihqlV9gcECnbhrFBOSw1F39Hsim558pvAY5YiiLYhZPSHT6sPropD8WICRj6ovErw50noqQxAQ1_CCpNgLfse8em_df8Ea7D3u4cb3ixPJU8oY4Q_W8zpwl08bxw95ZFzWHrW5-Zcvs4A/s320/2016-02-19+10.44.39.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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You can simply mark a spot by taking a single stitch in a contrasting thread and leaving the ends long enough, as you can see on the buttonholes in this picture. This also works for longer sections such as the CF line where you'll do a long running stitch and cut the top stitches before pulling the pattern away.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO69k5SKN1wp_zzR7xlg-rVGXqHCh1e2HkZISo_8qe-ARqDj7rk70vQXnJkv8P2a8U8RvbMtNANj1_-jrWxzxoadK5tfEn-vSuPR0KGsjmCTnl7BhVL39Q6zXd3yTvA1GUIqdnPxGFlVM/s1600/2016-02-19+10.45.36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO69k5SKN1wp_zzR7xlg-rVGXqHCh1e2HkZISo_8qe-ARqDj7rk70vQXnJkv8P2a8U8RvbMtNANj1_-jrWxzxoadK5tfEn-vSuPR0KGsjmCTnl7BhVL39Q6zXd3yTvA1GUIqdnPxGFlVM/s320/2016-02-19+10.45.36.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Here you see the result. I tend to use basting thread since it's a little thicker and stands out from most fabrics.</div>
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<u>Tailors Basting</u></div>
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I specify that this is not your regular basting stitch, which is more of a very long running stitch. This is used EVERYWHERE. Pin basting is a good start, but it really just doesn't cut it when you're shaping multiple layers and the distortion can cause issue. So, everything gets basted and then sewn. It's a great habit to get into even outside of tailoring.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHvYtYkOxlnJE8_dqJhyXPQ-gftGvjxfvbuoGW7Ec8hO8ocAEG-Yna7oK5xKmRiXHGq-QefxPgRgxsvWos7QQ7ptpNcUU_epEcWBWBg7XV8IYjnfFS2SvR_NTrKE_Rf8kGwdP15a8xxOM/s1600/2016-02-16+12.14.09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHvYtYkOxlnJE8_dqJhyXPQ-gftGvjxfvbuoGW7Ec8hO8ocAEG-Yna7oK5xKmRiXHGq-QefxPgRgxsvWos7QQ7ptpNcUU_epEcWBWBg7XV8IYjnfFS2SvR_NTrKE_Rf8kGwdP15a8xxOM/s320/2016-02-16+12.14.09.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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You'll want to be able to remove this thread easily later and you might not be able to get inside to the start of the stitching. Therefore I don't use knots, but just take one small stitch and leave a tail to start.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4euSCY3ib1jZCcncosbAsHkhHsoYzu9skfxdLDnD7Rb4xaHP2dqKO3sgxsv6K1nlTzMALAz3CxRQDVKHKFhGnGdveomfOkFVlc0GAA3CRuClsuDFxySTJgxZBRoNBiVzBa95ambyKMC8/s1600/2016-02-16+12.15.52.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4euSCY3ib1jZCcncosbAsHkhHsoYzu9skfxdLDnD7Rb4xaHP2dqKO3sgxsv6K1nlTzMALAz3CxRQDVKHKFhGnGdveomfOkFVlc0GAA3CRuClsuDFxySTJgxZBRoNBiVzBa95ambyKMC8/s320/2016-02-16+12.15.52.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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The stitches can be fairly long and it really depends on your needle. I don't bother switching over to a basting needle (though I should), so I can't go over 1" long, but longer than that seems unneccesary.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr33KunTAX0cwCMFVVqjexub18abJWSuOgfXenlKKmhCg0FQdL4bfcHkBy7l0MVycLNY_Ss7mq_ulMAnOYKIw368JLxHLvyJvInVSlYZ8Galv3HUrHflC7EkPlmCOIfowuGTlICIH-TWw/s1600/2016-02-16+12.31.41.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr33KunTAX0cwCMFVVqjexub18abJWSuOgfXenlKKmhCg0FQdL4bfcHkBy7l0MVycLNY_Ss7mq_ulMAnOYKIw368JLxHLvyJvInVSlYZ8Galv3HUrHflC7EkPlmCOIfowuGTlICIH-TWw/s320/2016-02-16+12.31.41.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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This is technically the same basic stitch, just on a much smaller scale. It's used to stitch down the tailors tape around the edges or along roll lines. I just used two rows here, but three or four is common as well. You can see how they slant different ways- you go up one side and down the other rather than moving the garment around.</div>
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<u>Pad-stitching</u></div>
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This is also the same movement as the basting, it's just the proportions that mean you take a small bite and a longer run. Some people prefer to take the bite horizontally, but I tend to be at a slight angle.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBZ2iO32I5_p0giB-sWMEDc-cr43Gi0u9P06pdkddvUGzSf1hiDc00WiJqJyHGiTM0m8iqcJTM92Ut-OacsZxyAvgegdN_QODv4UeXimZKDx4XeXzhSXg6Ix5sONdNIGRm3Q70BG35_60/s1600/2016-02-16+13.34.33.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBZ2iO32I5_p0giB-sWMEDc-cr43Gi0u9P06pdkddvUGzSf1hiDc00WiJqJyHGiTM0m8iqcJTM92Ut-OacsZxyAvgegdN_QODv4UeXimZKDx4XeXzhSXg6Ix5sONdNIGRm3Q70BG35_60/s320/2016-02-16+13.34.33.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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The key here is to roll the pieces as you work to get the finished shape. If you have problems keeping the rows somewhat straight and even you can run chalk lines as references. Remember to not go outside of the seam line!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOuiPGhaCCJOLfWdkUrFcokifucgPEjg4lFrV5zPIuWMuM75nN3f19sjmieMshp1RqMP54RMtrh5dMrXkuUENBwU8-rAXWsuhyphenhyphenEB2CqYkv-PGykFrOkPAOiQBZrw4KAWtX8lxIXMS7WqA/s1600/2016-02-16+13.52.06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOuiPGhaCCJOLfWdkUrFcokifucgPEjg4lFrV5zPIuWMuM75nN3f19sjmieMshp1RqMP54RMtrh5dMrXkuUENBwU8-rAXWsuhyphenhyphenEB2CqYkv-PGykFrOkPAOiQBZrw4KAWtX8lxIXMS7WqA/s320/2016-02-16+13.52.06.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The final result naturally curves. I often do smaller stitches near the lapel point to make sure it doesn't flip back out. You can also see how offset the interfacing now is from the fabric in order to get that curve.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjepwau4bvaypiP7r3iFbXYpVv9Y-pzDs_KUT1hN480OTMrvbmFruYYTm-rmh-YhJ3YSOs90ykbSv6AwohvKQ2sHfdaaYDbiJcWU6LoI6ayj6gOUp-gT59L0XqsTXMARd3nfKOZh0kL4Ho/s1600/2016-02-22+17.32.57.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjepwau4bvaypiP7r3iFbXYpVv9Y-pzDs_KUT1hN480OTMrvbmFruYYTm-rmh-YhJ3YSOs90ykbSv6AwohvKQ2sHfdaaYDbiJcWU6LoI6ayj6gOUp-gT59L0XqsTXMARd3nfKOZh0kL4Ho/s320/2016-02-22+17.32.57.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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The underside of your pad stitching will have very tiny pips, but won't be visible under the collars fold back. The stitching only extends as far as the roll line (where the basting is in this image).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJM9XnS3SRy9-Zt5VGbdPl1XppeNXvWyZhwMLNLVSU7bw3bJ-7gMi1ij9i7YathCdihm7dHNqQuHDRGuw-Ctw5eQKO2IzLWtcpRmclTdHfy0_O7gF6V3EZHaLdH-1qGp95XBwLLnTtmTg/s1600/2016-02-16+17.09.52.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJM9XnS3SRy9-Zt5VGbdPl1XppeNXvWyZhwMLNLVSU7bw3bJ-7gMi1ij9i7YathCdihm7dHNqQuHDRGuw-Ctw5eQKO2IzLWtcpRmclTdHfy0_O7gF6V3EZHaLdH-1qGp95XBwLLnTtmTg/s320/2016-02-16+17.09.52.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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We'll do the same thing to the collar, the regular basting line showing us where the roll will be. This curve allows us to sit the collar around the neck.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxMAQsBx-VUfF1ZPqYchKODIexVfr8uT5uOaViL2iUSMinQkShgC-apj2BzVKacnKwIY9IygGh2OZwZqfFF7NtiZQ7lLLxAQUnLGX_VCD1MHNSFubTDHSxaxxc4GrA9Ro7wrrdMfEiLaw/s1600/2016-02-17+10.23.42.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxMAQsBx-VUfF1ZPqYchKODIexVfr8uT5uOaViL2iUSMinQkShgC-apj2BzVKacnKwIY9IygGh2OZwZqfFF7NtiZQ7lLLxAQUnLGX_VCD1MHNSFubTDHSxaxxc4GrA9Ro7wrrdMfEiLaw/s320/2016-02-17+10.23.42.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here you can see that section laying flat. The wool now ripples along the edge.</div>
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But, lay it over a curved surface and it's nice and smooth!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQRWvtDUAuM77XO5H_AxLqaHWENgOAGMLvq_wtpE5ABrCFGa3kZJX4zuK3Dp5FZ6rpsfq9Cr5rK73UAZEu4VTAGxmQAb-x8uFtIlx1TewUQjD-0z9NvRR78P1WF8iZ7eRcJ7r8U-VMYdY/s1600/2016-02-17+11.09.57.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQRWvtDUAuM77XO5H_AxLqaHWENgOAGMLvq_wtpE5ABrCFGa3kZJX4zuK3Dp5FZ6rpsfq9Cr5rK73UAZEu4VTAGxmQAb-x8uFtIlx1TewUQjD-0z9NvRR78P1WF8iZ7eRcJ7r8U-VMYdY/s320/2016-02-17+11.09.57.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The top part of the collar is a more complex curve. Fold along the roll line first and work from center out to both sides.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_D212vhI_YZnSnCo7OgrHQb7iMEV62X0Nb88SsaxwMsXS6Zrbeb2W2F6frvoW_IHND0DXG8T1z6WnXku9VbXtGI0mrlIarmDCIK7peENXmFRmVlG-ioSdvdm1Cczw5sRMcr0DBzlg8zg/s1600/2016-02-17+11.19.31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="126" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_D212vhI_YZnSnCo7OgrHQb7iMEV62X0Nb88SsaxwMsXS6Zrbeb2W2F6frvoW_IHND0DXG8T1z6WnXku9VbXtGI0mrlIarmDCIK7peENXmFRmVlG-ioSdvdm1Cczw5sRMcr0DBzlg8zg/s320/2016-02-17+11.19.31.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is why you want to make sure you don't go past the seam line- it will all be trimmed away. I sometimes will chalk that line in on the interfacing, but because it moves as we pad-stitch it's not completely accurate (but it's a good reminder).</div>
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<u>Felling</u></div>
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Yes, this is a stitch you might already know, but it's not the most common in modern sewing. It's used in situations like attaching the undercollar or a patch pocket.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLSyzurMR51PyBtdFCrpyZhasohULskwt_2dNEtYxS2xonyGUrco1ci2nf-rXcuss5KDmp-8qDd8SqTXlbjSVL9uwaF0oXJA3E2uCuskVZTIkNYxEJc7OS7twEgLYnIi-9WtSrO12P_6M/s1600/2016-02-18+11.48.48.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLSyzurMR51PyBtdFCrpyZhasohULskwt_2dNEtYxS2xonyGUrco1ci2nf-rXcuss5KDmp-8qDd8SqTXlbjSVL9uwaF0oXJA3E2uCuskVZTIkNYxEJc7OS7twEgLYnIi-9WtSrO12P_6M/s320/2016-02-18+11.48.48.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The bite is taken at an angle, but the stitch visible on the outside should be straight up and down. In most fabrics this stitch will disappear easily. This is the undercollar seam, which will be opened up and the stitches invisible at the end.</div>
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Other stitches like the back stitch, cross stitch, slip stitch, and running stitch are also used throughout the garments. I won't cover these particularly, because they're quite common, but you'll see a lot of them in the coming weeks! Buttonhole styles and their stitch will be a post of it's own.</div>
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ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-33297321572491373142016-02-14T15:24:00.000-05:002016-02-14T15:24:52.402-05:00Tailoring Interfacings<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Interfacings are an essential part of any type of tailoring. Before I begin with a series of instructional posts, we need to understand what these different types are. I hope this will help you with purchasing the right structure for your garments!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ5OEf28IdYfvjUQIqOu8g4oy6r9P8G0_t7LCAX8e_czjm8vPNcg9DW1G5s_MS_6d7w35_FjHJrZwBu0SnEv0CQJ0pEy931NJUdtRbBoBj_Rrz9XXq5iU_4EZbcO7C15ICk6hII4kDFAs/s1600/IMG_8106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ5OEf28IdYfvjUQIqOu8g4oy6r9P8G0_t7LCAX8e_czjm8vPNcg9DW1G5s_MS_6d7w35_FjHJrZwBu0SnEv0CQJ0pEy931NJUdtRbBoBj_Rrz9XXq5iU_4EZbcO7C15ICk6hII4kDFAs/s640/IMG_8106.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Wigan</b></div>
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This is recommended for lightweight women's suit jackets in the 1930s and 1940s. Often these instructions call for wigan or muslin, but most muslins available today are much lighter weight and not nearly as stiff as they once were. Today wigan is sold for interfacing the sleeve hem.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6kVRvWMVyzGbrBCnNMARG7J6f5wJo9OA3uaXjVcrSSYX_DRvr9FAOWTT4NTWhUzRezD1E8hlf2fWMxE2l09zldn4o33eQR8MeiS_N91o4HZCGGzcAcMUEg75dANURU1KIXvi6nA2iVXY/s1600/IMG_8080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6kVRvWMVyzGbrBCnNMARG7J6f5wJo9OA3uaXjVcrSSYX_DRvr9FAOWTT4NTWhUzRezD1E8hlf2fWMxE2l09zldn4o33eQR8MeiS_N91o4HZCGGzcAcMUEg75dANURU1KIXvi6nA2iVXY/s320/IMG_8080.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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It has a decent amount of spring for being very lightweight, coming in around 1/2".</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG8VXzd6wDQIZRMnqJq2o3rmABuWy0RMmXqNnYmqdI_TATBvfeFQXMiDWo29lEvWlc6b0UbglPXGuI27OT3DqLxViJQI0hxdTGmiy1Ox5RQvi4N5O4L7Bapdf9KeYgxKnYY_yg6tkymAs/s1600/IMG_8082.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG8VXzd6wDQIZRMnqJq2o3rmABuWy0RMmXqNnYmqdI_TATBvfeFQXMiDWo29lEvWlc6b0UbglPXGuI27OT3DqLxViJQI0hxdTGmiy1Ox5RQvi4N5O4L7Bapdf9KeYgxKnYY_yg6tkymAs/s320/IMG_8082.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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It is, however, easily finger pressed into a crease along both the warp and weft.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRhz6QhvdnDxark8oo88exrdqTbcly0bsNsCZdnkWdXx3NB6PJEtie6N_s5RJYo5nVWmmoNEm1elkvWDnHYoSisPenNVgp4iOSg2ubnuRH2poSi350gqXdO1P9b31lljtpyKAw-tVN_8M/s1600/IMG_8092.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRhz6QhvdnDxark8oo88exrdqTbcly0bsNsCZdnkWdXx3NB6PJEtie6N_s5RJYo5nVWmmoNEm1elkvWDnHYoSisPenNVgp4iOSg2ubnuRH2poSi350gqXdO1P9b31lljtpyKAw-tVN_8M/s320/IMG_8092.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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It is fairly loose in it's weave, but is well-sized. It would prevent shifting of the fabric and keep it from stretching too much along the bias.</div>
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<b>Collar Interfacing</b></div>
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The listing for this fabric also termed it "buckram", though we'll discuss the proper definition for that term below. This is a very lightweight non-fusible interfacing meant not for coat collars, but for shirt collars and cuffs.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB9bcGt2zyQrc9xWMXC4uHZ4ezrjWMlZfvwgdX6vgLsmi2s5KDt46Ho9F6Mnnqg-fC3qAkoazlB18m3cF-8pBZDcQqCPIZnrNUIFeKtRUiDdUzjWfcuDWOgPHjDyiTQx5wryEhdG9r_5Y/s1600/IMG_8083.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB9bcGt2zyQrc9xWMXC4uHZ4ezrjWMlZfvwgdX6vgLsmi2s5KDt46Ho9F6Mnnqg-fC3qAkoazlB18m3cF-8pBZDcQqCPIZnrNUIFeKtRUiDdUzjWfcuDWOgPHjDyiTQx5wryEhdG9r_5Y/s320/IMG_8083.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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It has about 3/8" spring, but honestly has little fight in it.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfN-Whi6tlTuLZ7tZ7tQkKoSX0GN5Tyovq51-PhBaNJxpJ4K1_8hv0xGxLXZ9jvt0DDoEbM_fQrfqwebd8Bz35cDMhKWv8hhyphenhyphenzd2YGMiTpA0trhUgvNrLSs4zPO4g3dOHaUqoW2Pr08Os/s1600/IMG_8085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfN-Whi6tlTuLZ7tZ7tQkKoSX0GN5Tyovq51-PhBaNJxpJ4K1_8hv0xGxLXZ9jvt0DDoEbM_fQrfqwebd8Bz35cDMhKWv8hhyphenhyphenzd2YGMiTpA0trhUgvNrLSs4zPO4g3dOHaUqoW2Pr08Os/s320/IMG_8085.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Creasing is incredibly easy, which is good if you want to stitch it into the seam allowances of collars and the like.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivEipJPPXAz5Ejdxk7eH_3XAsYax8oCA7NN_aERyh4o4HGaWG2TY4ApZo92Whsv3XnO3JWL99iGBh7Wl3C5JZabMU3nnxOTItaYgSMxy2YTUeXoB6anNdzPTIMD-nhODag-7XYCwPr9TQ/s1600/IMG_8091.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivEipJPPXAz5Ejdxk7eH_3XAsYax8oCA7NN_aERyh4o4HGaWG2TY4ApZo92Whsv3XnO3JWL99iGBh7Wl3C5JZabMU3nnxOTItaYgSMxy2YTUeXoB6anNdzPTIMD-nhODag-7XYCwPr9TQ/s320/IMG_8091.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Very sheer and light, the weave is moderately open.</div>
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<b>Heavy Weight Hymo</b></div>
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This does very well for the body interfacing of heavy weight textiles. It's a viscose and polyester blend. It also comes in natural color, which you'll see an example of in the medium weight below.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXfYeOv3fnk70P_SMo_5vciU7t2Fk4IgjXqa4NPgzVdC-S3M164R1rtlPH_65QPDlm32o7MEafywEJgjdPu6JLn3Qa3hYb4Gcq1O0dhgDvsxb6uYl7L_T9mSk7ARMaf-YDnVhFKQiMa5g/s1600/IMG_8086.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXfYeOv3fnk70P_SMo_5vciU7t2Fk4IgjXqa4NPgzVdC-S3M164R1rtlPH_65QPDlm32o7MEafywEJgjdPu6JLn3Qa3hYb4Gcq1O0dhgDvsxb6uYl7L_T9mSk7ARMaf-YDnVhFKQiMa5g/s320/IMG_8086.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This has about 3/4" spring and will fight back. In fact, it has so much spring that I cannot finger press it at all on either grain.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyKLK4Nhi-SIoDr4grk_tvBaECBdMncCgll8ojkWVICT2BnTBMHiKTeUYEzWfY383unyiRPIi3Nb8GqAqsNGhHn8hZyuwc_KUTamYH73lEfFir20_-qyVSrsQPuUBitflilMoxH_mS2GI/s1600/IMG_8090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyKLK4Nhi-SIoDr4grk_tvBaECBdMncCgll8ojkWVICT2BnTBMHiKTeUYEzWfY383unyiRPIi3Nb8GqAqsNGhHn8hZyuwc_KUTamYH73lEfFir20_-qyVSrsQPuUBitflilMoxH_mS2GI/s320/IMG_8090.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The weave is fairly tight, the threads themselves are thick.</div>
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<b>Medium Weight Hymo</b></div>
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This is appropriate for body interfacing of most weights of fabrics. It's something I use fairly universally for bodies and collars. It's very good for anything involving pad stitching, though it's propensity to fraying means I wouldn't use it for a backing on pocket openings. A combination of cotton, rayon, hair, and polyester.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5sQzjj3hSfM14A5EXdI7R8WCS8SNl6IuV917r2FQYSqar3mwQVs_s-CwSAFULzFYOSImUlMbcfZZbuhw39zSc0y1T5cl8Z479XU4b9ZqoATz9szEDOPJCZFUmIJY7H-K56sJaFREMpLs/s1600/IMG_8097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5sQzjj3hSfM14A5EXdI7R8WCS8SNl6IuV917r2FQYSqar3mwQVs_s-CwSAFULzFYOSImUlMbcfZZbuhw39zSc0y1T5cl8Z479XU4b9ZqoATz9szEDOPJCZFUmIJY7H-K56sJaFREMpLs/s320/IMG_8097.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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It has a good 5/8" spring. It won't crease with the weft folded over, though the warp threads are lighter weight and can be folded easily.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSyOZpMqjR_odScL6Gh7Qfwz17NLj4pv9MxAOhdScJD6fsQfSUYwV_foOopofFsikXRczQjDgKMReP60NiOUBhak_0MS0vfzA24ZxXl1-Hy1tVa8P5LYMtyHO-YoZ3ypeJhq4vmprSG7c/s1600/IMG_8098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSyOZpMqjR_odScL6Gh7Qfwz17NLj4pv9MxAOhdScJD6fsQfSUYwV_foOopofFsikXRczQjDgKMReP60NiOUBhak_0MS0vfzA24ZxXl1-Hy1tVa8P5LYMtyHO-YoZ3ypeJhq4vmprSG7c/s320/IMG_8098.JPG" width="314" /></a></div>
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It's woven tightly with the weft threads being dominantly heavy.</div>
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<b>Beetled Linen</b></div>
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Often referred to as Holland linen today, this is a very light-weight linen that has been pounded flat in a complex process that gives it a permanent glazed look. This was sometimes used in men's 18th century garments, but I keep it around for lining women's shoes and use the scraps to back buttonholes and pocket slits.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI-8mY1Y42944vntfB01lfouWfkssmDeDYUaaMSc4BdNdhC-sZ5iZJeizdw8Ug7Cd3XtkBAmil-yqGkE039ZVGXTtB9LsX7jJeK9I-hEzot3p-ZENJuA0OXB73LGoymu70mxIGrOzJvDc/s1600/IMG_8088.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI-8mY1Y42944vntfB01lfouWfkssmDeDYUaaMSc4BdNdhC-sZ5iZJeizdw8Ug7Cd3XtkBAmil-yqGkE039ZVGXTtB9LsX7jJeK9I-hEzot3p-ZENJuA0OXB73LGoymu70mxIGrOzJvDc/s320/IMG_8088.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The spring is only around 3/8". It doesn't fight back much and can crease.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY1GnRygG257ZevcO8-1MRKqOMYAW0MfNd_9-v7V5Wdz39xs7RoNd25JcEZEC3OjqEcVSN-eHPJUMxTvM2GxG0O2__FzvZhgF9bEtC5om4ajC_DtJd_lWIAMWJsblAGp6_pDVhIaf-4G4/s1600/IMG_8089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY1GnRygG257ZevcO8-1MRKqOMYAW0MfNd_9-v7V5Wdz39xs7RoNd25JcEZEC3OjqEcVSN-eHPJUMxTvM2GxG0O2__FzvZhgF9bEtC5om4ajC_DtJd_lWIAMWJsblAGp6_pDVhIaf-4G4/s320/IMG_8089.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The weave is tight and the fabric is very heavily structured, but light. This means it has almost no give, but won't be bulky.</div>
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<b>Buckram</b></div>
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This is a tightly woven linen that I stiffened using gum tragacanth. Some historic sutlers carry this from time to time ready made, but it's very easy to make yourself (and therefore cheaper). You can put on more coats of the gum to get the stiffness you want. I love using this for pocket slit backing.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh3Hah34shyLJrWeXw9lRDD7xqc0RztCC4ePhftHpgC5NESq0OTMgYdJjm687ZSQpauB29jETnhrkT7AfeoM7Sds7-4nW8NRV3Y7ht7OgVCFdSzeegObeMcAWaFr6ADGypk-UsMVdQ1Vo/s1600/IMG_8094.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh3Hah34shyLJrWeXw9lRDD7xqc0RztCC4ePhftHpgC5NESq0OTMgYdJjm687ZSQpauB29jETnhrkT7AfeoM7Sds7-4nW8NRV3Y7ht7OgVCFdSzeegObeMcAWaFr6ADGypk-UsMVdQ1Vo/s320/IMG_8094.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This has about 1/2" spring.</div>
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It is possible to crease this fabric, but it's easy to smooth out the fold as well.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEHa4CPSbQ-Q5UI8Xn_yH8ari8CKtXXc0OSkCXt1fw-0hQ3Fhez6WU7IN_8iCxaoWAAZXJCG6i7dXW5KaZbbylu75tLQlf11ZJkmrYN-6DVv2wA18j3Y-u1YQErnCcRZX-cbAuit5mUF8/s1600/IMG_8096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEHa4CPSbQ-Q5UI8Xn_yH8ari8CKtXXc0OSkCXt1fw-0hQ3Fhez6WU7IN_8iCxaoWAAZXJCG6i7dXW5KaZbbylu75tLQlf11ZJkmrYN-6DVv2wA18j3Y-u1YQErnCcRZX-cbAuit5mUF8/s320/IMG_8096.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The weave of this will depend on the linen chosen. I tend to look for a good, tight weave over a heavy weight.</div>
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<b>French Collar Canvas</b></div>
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While meant today for pad-stitching into stiffer coat collars, it is surprisingly similar to historic buckram, both made from linen.. Though, it is very expensive, so it's not as well suited to do large fronts out of.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0AArFAv6J5oIRNFYshLiwM85eid5GscC4FEMUtrhw-zNt1jKs1d_JQFR_aLWPUxf-_wRNes-Ycg-aOVM6K0ArfMrDgJaoiDQivI-jBVYVa-7Aiw_z05JooZwr2tiWCfMaum72VrZw2Z0/s1600/IMG_8099.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0AArFAv6J5oIRNFYshLiwM85eid5GscC4FEMUtrhw-zNt1jKs1d_JQFR_aLWPUxf-_wRNes-Ycg-aOVM6K0ArfMrDgJaoiDQivI-jBVYVa-7Aiw_z05JooZwr2tiWCfMaum72VrZw2Z0/s320/IMG_8099.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This has almost 3/4" spring.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChoIkkJ048iWTWyx6RG-O2dpRp7JCEGOSQR8uNB0K7DjE_1KbbLdWLSVK30UFIL0ruGJXNkPrOYHQ5elnzipTve8MlsSWSoT3Sf8abtShdHZ2S3wB6PBVYQ9wxXtXf7DbsKg84PPnVws/s1600/IMG_8100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChoIkkJ048iWTWyx6RG-O2dpRp7JCEGOSQR8uNB0K7DjE_1KbbLdWLSVK30UFIL0ruGJXNkPrOYHQ5elnzipTve8MlsSWSoT3Sf8abtShdHZ2S3wB6PBVYQ9wxXtXf7DbsKg84PPnVws/s320/IMG_8100.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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It does crease, but again straightens out well.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimu1wpxsRJiq6R7WCqrf7tqYkQdP7mcTO4IlZrdt7DKGAO1ovJx8sezQ2NpA3bEYz2-mx1is1JjgGBtK_ARniDnTw2l93j8DzL48bnZEeOB_bLA-2YgGcwOqmG2pwbhgJZuxmdnztFmH8/s1600/IMG_8101.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="204" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimu1wpxsRJiq6R7WCqrf7tqYkQdP7mcTO4IlZrdt7DKGAO1ovJx8sezQ2NpA3bEYz2-mx1is1JjgGBtK_ARniDnTw2l93j8DzL48bnZEeOB_bLA-2YgGcwOqmG2pwbhgJZuxmdnztFmH8/s320/IMG_8101.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Still lightweight, but you can see how even the threads are. It doesn't allow for any movement along the bias or stretch.</div>
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<b>Horsehair Canvas</b></div>
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This textile is used in layering for the body interfacings or anywhere that a great deal of spring is needed. The stiff hairs mean that the edges must be dealt with and it's best sandwiched between layers so nothing works through to the outside later.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiovG3gNeUbMoAgtW09cP_IC4-nlbGgFGEg9-BWMWa6XuOZmTNAcrdinJBea8zIJmTs5Di0XZ_MbLihHPEO_6I0xW_t7nTaCB6WQk4dkAJv67oUs84ZaQiuXqLTG8Us_V-CUP8CPkDk4yI/s1600/IMG_8102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiovG3gNeUbMoAgtW09cP_IC4-nlbGgFGEg9-BWMWa6XuOZmTNAcrdinJBea8zIJmTs5Di0XZ_MbLihHPEO_6I0xW_t7nTaCB6WQk4dkAJv67oUs84ZaQiuXqLTG8Us_V-CUP8CPkDk4yI/s320/IMG_8102.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This has about 5/8" spring, but the fight is enormous. It was hard to get it to bend this much to be pinned.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYA7mfd8UWbmsPK5x2yuADPEBQKKcZW-lUKkr8jbL3gYvkniUCj3EqS693lVSLW_CLajc1yuqZ_oYhR6FOEL3JHpgqvUGDl00fAKwzvSqVKp9yixsjjglSIAgGTzAUIq5Y7y8vF5Sye5A/s1600/IMG_8104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYA7mfd8UWbmsPK5x2yuADPEBQKKcZW-lUKkr8jbL3gYvkniUCj3EqS693lVSLW_CLajc1yuqZ_oYhR6FOEL3JHpgqvUGDl00fAKwzvSqVKp9yixsjjglSIAgGTzAUIq5Y7y8vF5Sye5A/s320/IMG_8104.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The hairs only run along the weft, so the warp is much softer and this can be folded that direction.</div>
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<b>Tailor's Tape</b></div>
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This is a straight tape (bias is available) that is used along the edges of interfacings and the crease of the collar to prevent any stretch. It's much lighter weight than twill tape and won't add bulk. It's edges are "raw", but it's not prone to fraying without effort.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6n-Kai2eDJiXJS2wE7Sc_oi2ZNGA_cF6eZQaknAE3M78cziiTZbT0J4EB1mm5WyuGE9UtN7hKAubj8b3n873KKdlH-D0u0bja2gvMGiiuJbCJAPIgAnJqwuFL6PZuFjM4gmzyjp4uA4I/s1600/IMG_8105.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6n-Kai2eDJiXJS2wE7Sc_oi2ZNGA_cF6eZQaknAE3M78cziiTZbT0J4EB1mm5WyuGE9UtN7hKAubj8b3n873KKdlH-D0u0bja2gvMGiiuJbCJAPIgAnJqwuFL6PZuFjM4gmzyjp4uA4I/s320/IMG_8105.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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You'll notice I didn't include any of the iron-on style of interfacings. I really strongly believe in the quality of hand-sewing and the manipulation of the fabric that can be done in that process. Machine work is not as easy to maneuver, but still above iron-on. Those types of interfacings are used in most modern mass-produced suits, but with equipment that works the garment into a pre-set curve and shape while setting. I don't like that result much, but it's very difficult to even get that achieved without the equipment. That being said, I do have some of the cheap iron-on interfacing you can get at local fabric stores around. I use it for backing small areas of fabrics that are very prone to fraying around problem areas like buttonholes, pocket openings, or other notches and slits.</div>
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ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-73681615363033465982016-01-11T12:55:00.001-05:002016-01-11T12:55:48.135-05:00Vintage Brassieres<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
At Costume College last year Lauren of <a href="http://wearinghistoryblog.com/">Wearing History</a> had a great presentation on how to start your own vintage (30s, 40s, or 50s) wardrobe. Now, I already have a lot of pieces, though some are a bit small now and the rest feel a bit mis-matched. I figured I should take a fresh start at it! Her recommendations of what basics you need reminded me of how I haphazardly started in the first place back in college- making repro suits and blouses from our costume shops vintage pattern supply. I was planning to start this series with that again, but I've only had the time to make one full suit and I didn't document the steps on that one as well. So, instead we're going to work from skin out, even if I don't sew it all in that order. I'm planning to make a very basic set for all three decades and probably spend a lot more time fleshing out the 1950s one with time, since that's what I wear every day.<div>
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To start I've made two different brassieres. I wear pants most days, so I just made a couple of quick pairs of fitted panties to match and try out. I'll eventually make more and at least one pair of shorts and a garter belt. First everything needs to be worn a few times to make sure it fits and is comfortable all day!</div>
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The hardest part for me was figuring out what fabric and supplies I needed. I ended up starting with some silk charmeuse, though poly charmeuse would work well. I then ordered a couple colors of elastics, straps, notions, stabilized tricot, and regular stretch tricot (for panties) from <a href="http://bravobellabras.com/collections/yardage-goods">Bravo Bella</a>. I ended up needing way less elastic than I thought (originally planning to finish the bra edges with it) and wishing I had bought more hooks and notions so I could make more bras right away! The beige I ordered was just a little pinker than my charmeuse, so I dyed the fabric a bit. I also had a little bit of stretch net I dyed for it, though I can't recall where that came from.</div>
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The first bra I used the Foundations Revealed <a href="http://www.foundationsrevealed.com/index-of-articles/bra-making/bra-making-projects/368-soft-bras-part-1">Soft Bra series</a> parts 1 & 2 to draft out a pattern. To be honest, I stopped wearing regular bras a few years ago and have stuck with bralettes because I've had such a hard time finding bras that fit. I've tried a few brands, but it just doesn't work. My rib cage is very wide and flat, so anything in the right band size places the cups way to close together for me. This drafting worked almost perfectly and I only had to make some minor adjustments in the muslin phase!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiVC4r4ge8STwE5ej_0EO1dfbV88WQ1eDM5cJygtTLf1k8RgRJGMUbr6pfyr6m4cfq19_UXErrFB2N8S4Zp0ZoMbszk6TdQiH74e1kdlEsM8LSVGoJsTHLr3B7ulp1gEH926ASmxQqT-U/s1600/1950s-color-bullet-bras-323x500.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiVC4r4ge8STwE5ej_0EO1dfbV88WQ1eDM5cJygtTLf1k8RgRJGMUbr6pfyr6m4cfq19_UXErrFB2N8S4Zp0ZoMbszk6TdQiH74e1kdlEsM8LSVGoJsTHLr3B7ulp1gEH926ASmxQqT-U/s320/1950s-color-bullet-bras-323x500.jpg" width="206" /></a></div>
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I really liked the stitching on the second row, left so I used that for inspiration combined with a few other images. Sourced from <a href="http://vintagedancer.com/1950s/1950s-lingerie/">Vintage Dancer's</a> article on 1950s underwear.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTNQrsv0fR_Y7LEfW7PlKesQGcqW0CATIvfaKDDerCmWvX6GoB0GujKcMLeaxQfAHvd4lrz-6BmdJbZAGZsIJjM8mme-Taeak4JTVCxM7_AeYuuFRMtq_TT0dNdfSXuwZFQPP97UW25Y8/s1600/2015-12-25+17.38.44.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTNQrsv0fR_Y7LEfW7PlKesQGcqW0CATIvfaKDDerCmWvX6GoB0GujKcMLeaxQfAHvd4lrz-6BmdJbZAGZsIJjM8mme-Taeak4JTVCxM7_AeYuuFRMtq_TT0dNdfSXuwZFQPP97UW25Y8/s400/2015-12-25+17.38.44.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The only alteration I made to the draft was to add a small strip of the stable tricot between the band and cups. I have a (too small) repro bra with this feature and love it for warmer weather.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjljx293EPSnbVrAabPkjTTeyIZWVMWLEoRu54k_H6fv0WvdfMalioinYs04YwmEvFK20YV79_CDX4e0osA6mPIQQrQQqS5jLDM37RM6DVc07nv8s6jOXvWCtqN8k1GR00Pl7Em9_CPpE/s1600/2015-12-25+17.39.16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjljx293EPSnbVrAabPkjTTeyIZWVMWLEoRu54k_H6fv0WvdfMalioinYs04YwmEvFK20YV79_CDX4e0osA6mPIQQrQQqS5jLDM37RM6DVc07nv8s6jOXvWCtqN8k1GR00Pl7Em9_CPpE/s400/2015-12-25+17.39.16.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The back has a small bit of elastic on the band which makes all the difference in fit. Original bras of this time would have had ribbon for straps instead of elastic, but this is easier to find! All of the pieces of charmeuse are flat-lined with the stable tricot and the bottom of the cup was topstitched through one layer and lined with another.</div>
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<img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB9tkS3b7wm_6_Yf9UDpFn3xvQU4oDY0NKp41EfOa6Q9b-9r3Wqldgl9oxcfQWUOSgUhOA_MI5IsRQRMHD_cHyvhslp6w7rWh1HZN1LeJt_L8-vA-lVLYEEkZ7MBiVp9Uuyn-uR8sveLk/s400/IMG_8075.JPG" width="400" /></div>
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The seams and edges I ended up finishing with the same stable tricot cut into strips and made into tape (just not on the bias). I discovered that this type of tricot only irons well one way after a great deal of confusion! Just flip it to the other side and it creases nicely. This also the one part of this bra I won't do again- the tape across the mid seam of the cup is a little rough compared to the second style I made.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT9NvoAfgaZYbLED39y9A3TXuI-qhVU1odwjcGAy4vL3FwRVP_D5pLBJ49ZmRTuqbKYw26xqCOv8QnkEWVMV3R3DtPfem22wruCiBY3VA2TZtTrsFaDAVvxwdUKaPlTG5zqD5bBfHI2RU/s1600/IMG_8076.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT9NvoAfgaZYbLED39y9A3TXuI-qhVU1odwjcGAy4vL3FwRVP_D5pLBJ49ZmRTuqbKYw26xqCOv8QnkEWVMV3R3DtPfem22wruCiBY3VA2TZtTrsFaDAVvxwdUKaPlTG5zqD5bBfHI2RU/s400/IMG_8076.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The back design with the folded elastic seems fairly standard for the time. You can see a good example on the <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/84262?rpp=20&pg=2&ft=*&what=Brassieres&img=1">Met Museum site</a> (I think this brassiere will be on the future list).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixwQZ-uW2GOB4Y1_lFGZHIX1hnnmVuLuzcCqpd_0DtceA0C1h9yN8igFNw-GiN8cagAqMAh9WdTMLdhenrAK_fX4R7Vg8MRQUy3hCbWPlNKTzdShoK7QAtGIg8uAxQtSiFuwV3zOjDGWI/s1600/2016-01-11+11.51.23.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixwQZ-uW2GOB4Y1_lFGZHIX1hnnmVuLuzcCqpd_0DtceA0C1h9yN8igFNw-GiN8cagAqMAh9WdTMLdhenrAK_fX4R7Vg8MRQUy3hCbWPlNKTzdShoK7QAtGIg8uAxQtSiFuwV3zOjDGWI/s320/2016-01-11+11.51.23.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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For the second try I used my other color scheme and altered the pattern just a little bit. I wanted to do a curved cradle and narrowed the under-cup triangle. It also allowed me to alter the "point" of the cup a bit, which was a little roomy in the last bra (I just need to make small pads like you see for bullet bras later).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglNCAdrC-lsN13VkCQIfp5VrnqRch-OVJPLwPxiq2aAb-N_l0LxIWiHM7y-HN6EsWyAeYfmKoN3f3RB1TB1o-r4eULJyhte8egKcEZT_5IIzMY9QJnjtQAT6s_F0StXz6MstRPuLM6MwA/s1600/charmode-cordtex-1945-bras.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglNCAdrC-lsN13VkCQIfp5VrnqRch-OVJPLwPxiq2aAb-N_l0LxIWiHM7y-HN6EsWyAeYfmKoN3f3RB1TB1o-r4eULJyhte8egKcEZT_5IIzMY9QJnjtQAT6s_F0StXz6MstRPuLM6MwA/s320/charmode-cordtex-1945-bras.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Though I didn't put the extra elastic V in front, I used the shape of the left two for inspiration. This image sourced from <a href="http://vintagedancer.com/1940s/1940s-lingerie-history/">Vintage Dancer's</a> page on 1940s underwear.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3i5seBX_1gjeTlYafQFSrvwVI9n7MSDBXvvPtN3jp9Ko8k4ETNFWYP7Qa1yi64aOIJDx1O2PGMbg5xk3PTqJVrSy0_6130tHb7eZSOdXGiT6w_Y2B07hiIr8mIHsilLpVblKoQZ_TrAo/s1600/2016-01-07+15.03.39.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3i5seBX_1gjeTlYafQFSrvwVI9n7MSDBXvvPtN3jp9Ko8k4ETNFWYP7Qa1yi64aOIJDx1O2PGMbg5xk3PTqJVrSy0_6130tHb7eZSOdXGiT6w_Y2B07hiIr8mIHsilLpVblKoQZ_TrAo/s320/2016-01-07+15.03.39.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It's the same pattern base, I swear! I had fun using the stable tricot for the upper cups as well as the lining this time.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvY6iZXWB0LrfXRJPTByPAHon4vGX2SaldgyE3GHwTSmbnpghyc6dgbUZem1SqYEdRDWNJ0QBr5EEFkIM3LHEw5OVcepEpRDx1lGI2N5VDwKN48XZspV9MQpWtFI6VrQ9wlp7KHLIApVQ/s1600/2016-01-07+15.03.59.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvY6iZXWB0LrfXRJPTByPAHon4vGX2SaldgyE3GHwTSmbnpghyc6dgbUZem1SqYEdRDWNJ0QBr5EEFkIM3LHEw5OVcepEpRDx1lGI2N5VDwKN48XZspV9MQpWtFI6VrQ9wlp7KHLIApVQ/s320/2016-01-07+15.03.59.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The same design for the back.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLKGB8xLiYMTQmpFjMCK22-PkXvfAHUcURZp2_m3ejpaNZVCsVTiEobKoJAVPTFaJFJgHzsZ7rI5OPyaOwhV10aS1VrMGOVoAbrW2fsbP4QOvYF7ytvUVGgF5Fu3bnYO4kkcnPIyKlrQ0/s1600/IMG_8077.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLKGB8xLiYMTQmpFjMCK22-PkXvfAHUcURZp2_m3ejpaNZVCsVTiEobKoJAVPTFaJFJgHzsZ7rI5OPyaOwhV10aS1VrMGOVoAbrW2fsbP4QOvYF7ytvUVGgF5Fu3bnYO4kkcnPIyKlrQ0/s320/IMG_8077.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I decided to use the extra tricot lining for the bottom cup as the method for finishing off the cup seam. I've found it much more comfortable so far and it has a nice finish on the exterior as well. There are no underwires here, they really weren't common until much later though they exist in some 1950s bras. The middle does sit out a bit from my chest for that reason, but still fits very well.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoQ5goPeDSu3owQ4h3kZUXGVzoi2Ul-UIr97Ilmzb3iHs_79yLl9CKarrZHz2VGX53xI5mZE46l3U6ShqHcfB1mtyL_Xnxz0lLa-Komr5cN5idJnnwbDePev_3VmA1gnvkBUX-kpXV1VE/s1600/2016-01-11+11.52.06.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoQ5goPeDSu3owQ4h3kZUXGVzoi2Ul-UIr97Ilmzb3iHs_79yLl9CKarrZHz2VGX53xI5mZE46l3U6ShqHcfB1mtyL_Xnxz0lLa-Komr5cN5idJnnwbDePev_3VmA1gnvkBUX-kpXV1VE/s320/2016-01-11+11.52.06.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihm6jSzQ48AGkZDZz4ni4bsc2eGnpX3PJjEE65hKHaqNpT94HffdtigxawjIqUS8SlwKvDQn3S2DMDpWoKE8J3xIP8FBV7ycccPkumSv8Gx8X6p2yyUa7WPR3e1JDy_J88JJRIYOoAi7Q/s1600/f0919976367715d89e5ecaf5d36f0bf4.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihm6jSzQ48AGkZDZz4ni4bsc2eGnpX3PJjEE65hKHaqNpT94HffdtigxawjIqUS8SlwKvDQn3S2DMDpWoKE8J3xIP8FBV7ycccPkumSv8Gx8X6p2yyUa7WPR3e1JDy_J88JJRIYOoAi7Q/s320/f0919976367715d89e5ecaf5d36f0bf4.jpg" width="140" /></a></div>
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I think this is going to be the next style I attempt, though the Met brassiere, a bullet bra, and a Kestos design are on my list as well!</div>
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ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-74132046929293054082015-12-06T16:26:00.000-05:002015-12-06T16:27:25.317-05:00Steampunk Harley Quinn<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Teslacon also had a secondary event on Saturday night with a Night Circus theme. We actually had a real <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Dead-Mans-Carnival-338362982860387/">old-fashioned circus</a> come and perform (acrobats, a strong man, jugglers, etc) as well as an <a href="http://www.cycropia.org/">aerial team</a>. I changed up my dancehall ensemble for something a bit...darker. I originally started brainstorming by looking up Victorian fancy dress. I really loved some of the harlequin outfits, but there wasn't any good harlequin fabric online that I could find. But just before giving up, <a href="http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/">Angela Burnley</a> had an attic sale and was selling the absolutely most perfect fabric!! From there I started designing a harlequin fancy dress, but realized I was missing out on the fun part of Steampunk- the crazy punk part. It didn't take much to rework the design to fit doing a Steampunk Harley Quinn and I set about trying to figure out how to make a giant hammer...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQwxam5X-ssL6BFhXBgAQBVa5VtGAqfvDAX5xypW2GabYovQJIxCuW6boRsUC721WZhqB6aVTcDR0GHkopE99eIrk4vmPwZ-yWM3zRbJ9gfwbTtTk-M0wRjBHHH28BEkvvTksYkpCSFHk/s1600/IMG_7951.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQwxam5X-ssL6BFhXBgAQBVa5VtGAqfvDAX5xypW2GabYovQJIxCuW6boRsUC721WZhqB6aVTcDR0GHkopE99eIrk4vmPwZ-yWM3zRbJ9gfwbTtTk-M0wRjBHHH28BEkvvTksYkpCSFHk/s640/IMG_7951.JPG" width="387" /></a></div>
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Ok, so lots of layers. The base is a red silk taffeta corset and red cotton bustle pad. The skirt is then made from black cotton with pleated black silk taffeta around the visible bottom. Over that the two swags are a metallic gold/black fabric. The bodice is from the harlequin fabric I lucked into, lined in the gold and piped in the red silk with more black pleating. The mitts are silk net.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy3qlvbJFmsIqQ9ebYJ07QUFia5jXTJc1YfXYfsEqTsxvDyN23R5FTr7AVjj14tcrpr6iiYYWD_NOL5V_oxTtXCap0dr05X0s6M6rawfngDI2Y4hjuL41M9B7NjZaooWO1R_qX4YOuDj0/s1600/IMG_7948.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy3qlvbJFmsIqQ9ebYJ07QUFia5jXTJc1YfXYfsEqTsxvDyN23R5FTr7AVjj14tcrpr6iiYYWD_NOL5V_oxTtXCap0dr05X0s6M6rawfngDI2Y4hjuL41M9B7NjZaooWO1R_qX4YOuDj0/s640/IMG_7948.JPG" width="379" /></a></div>
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I also threw on a patent leather belt I already had and made a tiny hat based on one of the fancy dress images. The wig I'll talk about more below.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2H-areT4SoxC5E1M-ea96Hy4LBJYluAFd49j93r5GHhW-mEkhFCUEZJLOxU-5d4GB33q835IiwJjTijYOdPftvdj31dwNsbcW8wC1Vy_nevtOxvpYQ-80e4Wc10ZgpKjIdIcXqf-hxEc/s1600/IMG_7949.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2H-areT4SoxC5E1M-ea96Hy4LBJYluAFd49j93r5GHhW-mEkhFCUEZJLOxU-5d4GB33q835IiwJjTijYOdPftvdj31dwNsbcW8wC1Vy_nevtOxvpYQ-80e4Wc10ZgpKjIdIcXqf-hxEc/s640/IMG_7949.JPG" width="368" /></a></div>
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I almost didn't do the bustle style back, but I'm so glad I did! Also, the awesome tights I found at <a href="http://hanselfrombasel.com/">Hansel from Basel</a> and shoes from <a href="http://remixvintageshoes.com/">Remix</a>. This was definitely one of those magic outfits that came together in just over a week.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZas8ZG5PDLwgADa2jQGSar5vZBFk3xyu9_QHXNWMtwYvg8ADfv0L7z-U2LWlI2Vnrsz4P6G9H4dcm4EMzTx53d1XhL66dEGGiYeO3Ap3nXkS-02auX7d1xubz9Bx4A6kTwOdPOx-KbHQ/s1600/IMG_7954.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZas8ZG5PDLwgADa2jQGSar5vZBFk3xyu9_QHXNWMtwYvg8ADfv0L7z-U2LWlI2Vnrsz4P6G9H4dcm4EMzTx53d1XhL66dEGGiYeO3Ap3nXkS-02auX7d1xubz9Bx4A6kTwOdPOx-KbHQ/s640/IMG_7954.JPG" width="340" /></a></div>
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I looked over some of the 1870s/80s patterns in Patterns of Fashion and Cut of Women's Clothes, but I had to alter it so much I can't really point to one that's similar anymore.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghrBhy1a8TD_5uOqI3NROXKRsZAR2PsnleKvIVXWL_RsQU9UiqgzVQAqk828hxgrecXjolJnsMeeWPJIHEppzT2P839QfYSH52mjNYnedy-oUB-DJ5A8Zq-EAkN-OR9ArlhxsG1UQMm7M/s1600/IMG_7956.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghrBhy1a8TD_5uOqI3NROXKRsZAR2PsnleKvIVXWL_RsQU9UiqgzVQAqk828hxgrecXjolJnsMeeWPJIHEppzT2P839QfYSH52mjNYnedy-oUB-DJ5A8Zq-EAkN-OR9ArlhxsG1UQMm7M/s400/IMG_7956.JPG" width="233" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn52C6skA9ZuD1lqT0eIYCfF3rPiLMSPzHJwGQKe508CsR9MUeEBtEooQd9g2cFBdTDISL-CTfGCnaYjEHIpdLZ5ApLozirqYU4AQXk72G0VSUxvfMQqHMwLme0xWrl2OJS5zvaZDMx7Q/s1600/IMG_7958.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn52C6skA9ZuD1lqT0eIYCfF3rPiLMSPzHJwGQKe508CsR9MUeEBtEooQd9g2cFBdTDISL-CTfGCnaYjEHIpdLZ5ApLozirqYU4AQXk72G0VSUxvfMQqHMwLme0xWrl2OJS5zvaZDMx7Q/s400/IMG_7958.JPG" width="260" /></a></div>
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The hammer was the hardest part for me since this is definitely out of my comfort zone. Thankfully a good friend and my husband came to the rescue and helped me figure out supplies and assembly (which happened in about two days at the last minute). The base is a sonotube with wood veneer from a craft store gorilla glued around it. The ends are a decorative block of wood we found, the handle a dowel rod, the topper is from a curtain rod, and then the copper straps are electrical tape with fabric tacks! A quick staining the night before I left and I was good to go (aside from the fact that my car smelled like stain for the 7 hour trip).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFH9V55QohtE6tMQ31aNPBSuNDzUMGezoQr37yeUkW_N-3iekRklEdN3CoXfjJIEIKKMGDflzdnWr0jsKIzSVwQ0oCwSTd0ToNT5u6U14NMO0u7mseEUvodsojTEgT9O7jOhyphenhyphenEqr65v54/s1600/IMG_7963.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFH9V55QohtE6tMQ31aNPBSuNDzUMGezoQr37yeUkW_N-3iekRklEdN3CoXfjJIEIKKMGDflzdnWr0jsKIzSVwQ0oCwSTd0ToNT5u6U14NMO0u7mseEUvodsojTEgT9O7jOhyphenhyphenEqr65v54/s640/IMG_7963.JPG" width="409" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinx3jdSDM42-dA1g8k1fhmu5UYrjgYxIIp9WHMyICl-Y09g0kKZ9kcdLjrQltYJf-uLv8iDIFd9Vks2563Wd66_E2MmOjWGJF25tXhBYFGgdoLHCpYKCaTgqtc6ENa8aGfhJgY7kqe9bY/s1600/IMG_7976.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinx3jdSDM42-dA1g8k1fhmu5UYrjgYxIIp9WHMyICl-Y09g0kKZ9kcdLjrQltYJf-uLv8iDIFd9Vks2563Wd66_E2MmOjWGJF25tXhBYFGgdoLHCpYKCaTgqtc6ENa8aGfhJgY7kqe9bY/s640/IMG_7976.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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First time trying to draft my own corset from scratch not based on a historical pattern. I ended up with 12 pieces per side and it fits so perfectly! It's just one layer of coutil with the seams top-stitched and folded over to make casings. I boned it with the plastic German Whalebone because the zipties I had weren't long enough. I need to make more modern corsets now...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjqj4YaHmx99qBPLLMRE5leeVY_XCLPI-UJatqVsb9PmTgNSxvKFvzX-3-zOF9kAbTaOl-j_k1X1SXkxqxfjweNQb6g7Jh7P58Z07cFO1Lh_qt4SvqkldGkySxwyCv7EOOZbK5cDrsGQs/s1600/2015-10-29+15.05.53-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjqj4YaHmx99qBPLLMRE5leeVY_XCLPI-UJatqVsb9PmTgNSxvKFvzX-3-zOF9kAbTaOl-j_k1X1SXkxqxfjweNQb6g7Jh7P58Z07cFO1Lh_qt4SvqkldGkySxwyCv7EOOZbK5cDrsGQs/s320/2015-10-29+15.05.53-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It's hard to tell with all of the layers on top, but I've got really high hips and a very abrupt waist to hip change which makes many corset styles painful (stays are great though). I finally managed to get this design to work. Not a ton of waist reduction, only about 2-3" when first lacing in.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidl1g0isVgjybSTJbV2-s5t0oitsXSlW_hORw2xrDLDRhPkhBKZLDkaQRuqrC_H3yPu9Ui7CllpPptvxpSRmYYdkHx6g37K3rSyC6JYcgDI3r-x6flwFrdCnU5iePcxEPU9a3vMigC0eI/s1600/IMG_7978.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidl1g0isVgjybSTJbV2-s5t0oitsXSlW_hORw2xrDLDRhPkhBKZLDkaQRuqrC_H3yPu9Ui7CllpPptvxpSRmYYdkHx6g37K3rSyC6JYcgDI3r-x6flwFrdCnU5iePcxEPU9a3vMigC0eI/s640/IMG_7978.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The bodice I decorated with jet black beads on the shoulders that have fallen off of a deteriorating Victorian mantle I have for parts (black silk has no hope) and some brooches and buttons I already had around. The obsession with sparkly jewelry is genetic in our family, so I've got a good collection!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif8HflB3TFRXyRsZC8ZbLnlsNdSpQzHcpC3P7Fl0HYouduRnlYjyZyI3ik4SUyo1TVVMmYoo7Oet53oxCFArkGMlG8TrUX_mT5SvNKMfH4oF4hfkYl82NXNaaFDSaPpsTm0xuuj42i-og/s1600/IMG_7993.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif8HflB3TFRXyRsZC8ZbLnlsNdSpQzHcpC3P7Fl0HYouduRnlYjyZyI3ik4SUyo1TVVMmYoo7Oet53oxCFArkGMlG8TrUX_mT5SvNKMfH4oF4hfkYl82NXNaaFDSaPpsTm0xuuj42i-og/s640/IMG_7993.JPG" width="440" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrnjeVR4qBq8WSPZRTrkLReszGvZO4AXH5bBW7NQnCQQFhLu8-UpYFNwp7-TO8DPzinwz8lgT0NL7ioRCEt8LxYnQnVAX7HBv4HoPYO6PMkPkBy9Mh5YC_DITpEZ4c2yZ-Vq2ktTToVVY/s1600/IMG_7994.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrnjeVR4qBq8WSPZRTrkLReszGvZO4AXH5bBW7NQnCQQFhLu8-UpYFNwp7-TO8DPzinwz8lgT0NL7ioRCEt8LxYnQnVAX7HBv4HoPYO6PMkPkBy9Mh5YC_DITpEZ4c2yZ-Vq2ktTToVVY/s400/IMG_7994.JPG" width="286" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMoBTmEWyNK0IHQ1R5s_7IGDoFeCNUMy_SoXUndnPH9r12WjLdHfRg92QADuV2OQ6YvM_UaW9d8lyOSybTtNVYTJTpOMQ4vLgnWnF92ekxCi_moy2otOYAyTjYeFagfABTu8ztUuG9ASc/s1600/IMG_7995.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMoBTmEWyNK0IHQ1R5s_7IGDoFeCNUMy_SoXUndnPH9r12WjLdHfRg92QADuV2OQ6YvM_UaW9d8lyOSybTtNVYTJTpOMQ4vLgnWnF92ekxCi_moy2otOYAyTjYeFagfABTu8ztUuG9ASc/s400/IMG_7995.JPG" width="281" /></a></div>
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And then there's the wig. I purchased the wig and two extensions from <a href="https://arda-wigs.com/">Arda Wigs</a> (Glinda and long curly clips). The extensions were first cannibalized for strands of hair to put a lace front on the wig. I do not have a high forehead and putting a regular wig far enough forward to cover my now dark hair just looks weird apparently. Next time I'm just buying a pre-done lace front style. The two extensions were then dipped into some Rit dye to try to get an ombre effect. A lot of bobby pins later I managed something that is vaguely based on some 1870s hair fashions with loads of extra curls on the sides. Oh, and the adorable hat has two silk velvet pompoms on it. For some reason, that was the most satisfying bit of the project!</div>
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ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-39627565179271896742015-11-25T11:36:00.000-05:002015-11-25T11:36:22.950-05:00Dance Hall Girls II<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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So, as the months went by the embroidery began to take shape. Using the wire lace for the swirls saved me a great deal of time and headaches.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyeUBl0LgSkSEimuFAHc0-8DE1YAu0dN9TO570lULrJkcmamN0eBg5BTAje3NWHb1qPPQvZIA88XhQpIl4pCnaQdzRu-R4hZfQ5QxZYxX5yZkIxuhCsnwkl-VOeWSW8rRzrBb_v6rQEkc/s1600/2015-09-20+22.00.51.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyeUBl0LgSkSEimuFAHc0-8DE1YAu0dN9TO570lULrJkcmamN0eBg5BTAje3NWHb1qPPQvZIA88XhQpIl4pCnaQdzRu-R4hZfQ5QxZYxX5yZkIxuhCsnwkl-VOeWSW8rRzrBb_v6rQEkc/s320/2015-09-20+22.00.51.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK2MeHUFbdXuqst71flHe9k1TB-Eh2UcqWqoremWmzptxxJ2ZDB-IezBMFnmZz_7ZyKRjmkFSd5YhUEVVYmH9vC5PuyO7KiyOBzl9wjGpTD_co2nv2NRRscUbif4dMTULaYECJmfRmTGY/s1600/2015-09-29+22.02.44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK2MeHUFbdXuqst71flHe9k1TB-Eh2UcqWqoremWmzptxxJ2ZDB-IezBMFnmZz_7ZyKRjmkFSd5YhUEVVYmH9vC5PuyO7KiyOBzl9wjGpTD_co2nv2NRRscUbif4dMTULaYECJmfRmTGY/s320/2015-09-29+22.02.44.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv2E0ieSs6tQz52ifsaO-Twg7agyQdaD3eyvIaeusYEwKSOt4L5nKXs26Ws2aoVL4G2-2Rk6QEbV1e1KTrsuOu6x4R0T-bSOZRJ1LmsmBuq_mByae25LIKdvGeGPoxLodTUqweZ2uRAgw/s1600/2015-10-22+16.26.25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv2E0ieSs6tQz52ifsaO-Twg7agyQdaD3eyvIaeusYEwKSOt4L5nKXs26Ws2aoVL4G2-2Rk6QEbV1e1KTrsuOu6x4R0T-bSOZRJ1LmsmBuq_mByae25LIKdvGeGPoxLodTUqweZ2uRAgw/s320/2015-10-22+16.26.25.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I also began the work of patterning and building up the bodice. I based it on evening gown bodice shapes from the 1890s. I wasn't sure of the design I was going to use just yet, so I went ahead and covered the twill underlayer with some cheap dupioni I had laying around.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSmXL8Uo_CJDlIvg6IZVuGTTGg-iZyWHb7YE6VxcDIM5zSYmKv-M_MjSDDQ6KzOVCD_JV1ZDdetYC8Rmd_CTP8f0Hq9arCyoEHd6Q5rlyiDvctl8FjnIQp-oxyFHnzWj1KC09KZ68JwW0/s1600/2015-04-19+11.38.51.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSmXL8Uo_CJDlIvg6IZVuGTTGg-iZyWHb7YE6VxcDIM5zSYmKv-M_MjSDDQ6KzOVCD_JV1ZDdetYC8Rmd_CTP8f0Hq9arCyoEHd6Q5rlyiDvctl8FjnIQp-oxyFHnzWj1KC09KZ68JwW0/s320/2015-04-19+11.38.51.jpg" width="159" /></a></div>
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Most of the images show a very strong nip in at the waist and rounding around the rib cage, something I tried to do, but not being "corset shaped" in my torso it wasn't as extreme.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYHI9fDJ3qV_ufHZmFbTwQ4maf_w1yWXJrxMMmZUSx3eTHHtSq-BfEVMCHnaVwDGtKOa15SoWeut1oS8Ur5WrelsjgMNPv6CP6E_ne7yvT13vupXDY11bQHPTXV_he3uGtspLJz1tD7-w/s1600/2015-04-20+14.52.48.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYHI9fDJ3qV_ufHZmFbTwQ4maf_w1yWXJrxMMmZUSx3eTHHtSq-BfEVMCHnaVwDGtKOa15SoWeut1oS8Ur5WrelsjgMNPv6CP6E_ne7yvT13vupXDY11bQHPTXV_he3uGtspLJz1tD7-w/s320/2015-04-20+14.52.48.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The interior was finished and structured like evening bodices of the time as well. I used cable ties for the boning and silk grosgrain ribbon for their channels.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUykv5HqqoqVu3Fv-BIPmWxS-xI58urQOo4Ls7HkqUmRj1yeA3m_Eft7v6_WAoU710AkSYt2we5tPjfEqOk0df-SoLxBK_-VM3iTZ2mkUVEM3LzkcgchqU_7sF0aNAv3onZ_cl83ff_j4/s1600/2015-04-20+14.53.59.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUykv5HqqoqVu3Fv-BIPmWxS-xI58urQOo4Ls7HkqUmRj1yeA3m_Eft7v6_WAoU710AkSYt2we5tPjfEqOk0df-SoLxBK_-VM3iTZ2mkUVEM3LzkcgchqU_7sF0aNAv3onZ_cl83ff_j4/s320/2015-04-20+14.53.59.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I started drawing in chalk on the bodice to play with final form ideas.</div>
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I crammed most of the actual assembly into about one week, the petticoat taking up the most time.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPtzc1-ZbD8mPzt9-RKo4_MoY05w0HUq4OYpGl7IBBToZ-YyCe2Kq418xPRxZPsMLqf3cYxpRJbK4MW8eDEnDS6jT-E49tTBKYTx8ujSc-FDwKSKGdCnTjWFpgAcKLWeNTZcKuTfvIFYg/s1600/IMG_7928.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPtzc1-ZbD8mPzt9-RKo4_MoY05w0HUq4OYpGl7IBBToZ-YyCe2Kq418xPRxZPsMLqf3cYxpRJbK4MW8eDEnDS6jT-E49tTBKYTx8ujSc-FDwKSKGdCnTjWFpgAcKLWeNTZcKuTfvIFYg/s400/IMG_7928.JPG" width="250" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU5tQ5vhSF8na65KaxWJNRyGyjLlvbF9WglUCtMnIl20TnXHyQglihkx5ul4oEUBbnWsXsToGzX0BA6293oPWR0bMqoswz6WfDWoYOMUjAuHym4DUIU28ODqpRg8MhhU9Bxs0YSLtWeL8/s1600/IMG_7926.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU5tQ5vhSF8na65KaxWJNRyGyjLlvbF9WglUCtMnIl20TnXHyQglihkx5ul4oEUBbnWsXsToGzX0BA6293oPWR0bMqoswz6WfDWoYOMUjAuHym4DUIU28ODqpRg8MhhU9Bxs0YSLtWeL8/s400/IMG_7926.JPG" width="233" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcevOCl4WLQJm67hfyGs1PM41IaUdT7lfk2Gv-NcdKTMT_5JRUmHqD-Vx6Rl2MMQMzFy9BxFpYiaybjf5qZixgVbiRdWdEw12IbTD21nZxvruXFUz7L89RowUa0hLJHYvOa4DrCdJjouI/s1600/IMG_7929.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcevOCl4WLQJm67hfyGs1PM41IaUdT7lfk2Gv-NcdKTMT_5JRUmHqD-Vx6Rl2MMQMzFy9BxFpYiaybjf5qZixgVbiRdWdEw12IbTD21nZxvruXFUz7L89RowUa0hLJHYvOa4DrCdJjouI/s400/IMG_7929.JPG" width="246" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmwt2vv-Q7Cz80qrLYHOF8tU8l7tevkUJm1J3iNmQSOQw0iNYNH-gBrQcX1YX5suR0HQHH5SXm7K0zhzeKz_ayNZH_9lE1VUIRi_z_453yO4YpvCLCxrsCbGDx9ELneeXUye868Tl8Cbc/s1600/IMG_7931.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmwt2vv-Q7Cz80qrLYHOF8tU8l7tevkUJm1J3iNmQSOQw0iNYNH-gBrQcX1YX5suR0HQHH5SXm7K0zhzeKz_ayNZH_9lE1VUIRi_z_453yO4YpvCLCxrsCbGDx9ELneeXUye868Tl8Cbc/s400/IMG_7931.JPG" width="275" /></a></div>
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When I started constructing the skirt it became apparent very quickly that I had made the whole thing WAY too big. I started out planning about a 150" hem, but the embroidery was just swallowed by the fabric folding back in on itself. So, looking at some of the original images for ideas, I took the seams in numerous inches and made pleated sections so that the hem would stay large enough for movement, but would be smaller when let down.</div>
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The bodice was fairly simple construction, but as you can see in the pictures above I ended up with the front buckling with use. I had left the bones free for the top few inches like you see in originals, but since I wasn't wearing a corset underneath the now three layers of stiff fabric still couldn't hold it up. So, mid-day I took the outfit off and tacked the front five bones all the way up (also tacking the organza pleats down). It fixed the issue, thankfully!</div>
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Adding in that the shoes are actually a 1780-style pair I made to wear for work earlier in the year (I just chose my colors wisely). The tights are ballet tights and I did make a super fast pair of fitted satin "knickers" of a sort just in case I was going to flash anyone with the petticoat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOFA9Y_vpKgf09JLpq0z6yQd7Hwz77SBXuqxMnkF8wFa6SOUMMAYQ7hkJcmZFqqF1JaNrY-174cZNT0e4ZIRnBnGck645BwXE_qj8znLvJZu1qBLf84UQF7tlLGumzqHPn4zvMzeifLuA/s1600/IMG_7988.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOFA9Y_vpKgf09JLpq0z6yQd7Hwz77SBXuqxMnkF8wFa6SOUMMAYQ7hkJcmZFqqF1JaNrY-174cZNT0e4ZIRnBnGck645BwXE_qj8znLvJZu1qBLf84UQF7tlLGumzqHPn4zvMzeifLuA/s400/IMG_7988.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The satin covering the bodice was made up separately, the bottom folded under and slip-stitched to the lining. The top edges were folded over the under-bodice and all of the raw edges were covered with bias fabric. I tacked through all of the seams and darts to the under-bodice as well, so it wouldn't shift around.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHVBg3NsZY_f1vivCCb83j5WSb-nAIFF7_EkPgTTNg7L70j2aP8f7kBoif0Hj1KLrj2zyLdQMjATDV9EzXiiYJP8SORpw-1B1DYpnyeQaXAYSjcMAYpvL98jb_GcVvSv-wc_7MnYhbFEc/s1600/IMG_7989.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHVBg3NsZY_f1vivCCb83j5WSb-nAIFF7_EkPgTTNg7L70j2aP8f7kBoif0Hj1KLrj2zyLdQMjATDV9EzXiiYJP8SORpw-1B1DYpnyeQaXAYSjcMAYpvL98jb_GcVvSv-wc_7MnYhbFEc/s400/IMG_7989.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The two back panels were left loose and lined so they could be pulled back to access the lacing.</div>
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The pleated green organza was tacked to a panel of satin which hooked across the lacings, the two satin back panels then hooked to each other at the bottom half.</div>
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I originally planned 6-8 tiers of about 6" wide ruffles. However, once I made up the first tier it was obvious that the layers would just fold in on themselves and the fullness had to be achieved some other way. I looked at the images again and they all had a much smaller ruffle along the edge which kept the large ruffles from staying flat. So, keeping in mind the yardage I had (about 10 yards pre-pleating), I went with four tiers instead. Overall I hemmed about 150 yards of organza ruffles. The four ruffles are all close to the bottom edge of a roughly 12"x150" unpleated piece that gathers at the top to a small circle.</div>
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ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-60576776403752017822015-11-24T17:31:00.000-05:002015-11-24T17:31:43.128-05:00Dance Hall Girls<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Before I get started, hello again! I know it's been a while, but this year alone I interned in the Margaret Hunter Millinery Shop, worked on George Washington's Marquee Part 2: The Dining Tent, and moved to Omaha, NE. Quite a change in location, which will mean some changes for this blog. But, now that I'm settled the first step is to start posting again!<br />
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This years Teslacon storyline took us to Texas to be a part of the Wild West. With the busy schedule I settled on a long-term single outfit that I could pick up off and on for a few months. We had been embroidering a great deal in the shop and I wanted to use that in my design. I settled on a show-girl style costume, the type seen in cabinet cards advertising the Follies Bergere and other similar shows. It may not be the most accurate to put such costumes in the West, but the 20th century does again and again in movies, so I'll claim that part as good enough and try to make the garment itself heavily based in surviving images. While the bodices often do closely resemble 1890s evening gowns, they are their own style and I have yet to find a surviving example. So, images it was.<br />
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I didn't use a single image to copy, but tried to pull in lots of elements <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/colevintage/vintage-stage-costumes/">(loads more on Pinterest)</a>. I really should have made the whole thing much gaudier to be stage-appropriate, but since I wasn't going to be on stage I just wasn't fond of that idea.</div>
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I managed to find some amazing double sided silk satin on Etsy to start. I decided to design the embroidery using Aesthetic Movement styles and set about sketching. The embroidery thread is un-spun Japanese silk.</div>
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I also managed to find silk passementerie on Ebay, coming from Portugal, to trim the edges with.</div>
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The final colors chosen. I went with the green side as the main color so the pinks would pop better.</div>
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I knew I was going to need an absurd amount of ruffles for the petticoat. Looking at the images, most appeared finely pleated rather than gathered. Organza seemed like it would have the best hand and resembled the images as well, so I ordered about 10 yards and sent it off to International Pleating in NYC to save my sanity (it's really not expensive and there's no minimum!).</div>
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During the Spring I started sketching out the embroidery designs, settling on four different panels. I found inspiration in everything from spoons to wallpaper.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNyBjuFwNjYRUZKHnncC14YGQPZXvuto3SByj50u6XTsg_KjxNTU_YJl6H7BCsj-1x-2Xb9le0t71cOuM9dbM29vqspRoL2UOpNq1HccAYvcvvtdIuT76kV14_g85Vd_wqnaWr2rjV-Zo/s1600/2015-05-11+21.36.32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNyBjuFwNjYRUZKHnncC14YGQPZXvuto3SByj50u6XTsg_KjxNTU_YJl6H7BCsj-1x-2Xb9le0t71cOuM9dbM29vqspRoL2UOpNq1HccAYvcvvtdIuT76kV14_g85Vd_wqnaWr2rjV-Zo/s320/2015-05-11+21.36.32.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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I estimated the size/shape of the 8 panels I would need for the skirt and seamed pairs together to start embroidery. The seams I felled over. I scaled up the embroidery designs and sketched them on with chalk, detailing with pencil. I worked off and on on the embroidery between April and the end of October.</div>
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To be continued....(tomorrow)</div>
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ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-37929212486470724082015-03-22T19:27:00.000-04:002015-03-22T19:28:52.038-04:001815 Pelisse<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Realizing today how much my list of un-blogged costumes is piling up, I figured I should at least try to get through New Orleans before I forget too much about it!<br />
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First up is my very warm Pelisse. I'm so so so glad I made this garment, as the event was nearly freezing cold (I got wind-burn on my face!). The main fabric is a lovely butter-yellow camlet trimmed in green silk velvet and lined in bright yellow silk taffeta. I based the design on these two fashion plates. I didn't use a specific pattern, but took inspiration for the right shapes of the time from Janet Arnold and Norah Waugh.<br />
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One of the hardest parts of the piece was getting the silk velvet to lie flat even while working around so many curves. The front closed by way of tiny button/buttonholes and a large hook under the belt.</div>
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Each one of the capes was made up separately, lined and trimmed. This put a lot of bulk into the neckline and if I did this again I'd actually work the seam allowance there open rather than folding it all into the bodice.</div>
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The collar itself is two pieces and velvet on the underside. The hem actually sits a few inches above the ground, the back is held out slightly by a small pad at the waist but is longer than the front.</div>
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Thankfully I thought ahead and co-ordinated my entire wardrobe so I could wear the pelisse over my other ensemble the next day. Just a change of hat and gloves to bring it all together.</div>
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I really did mean a "bright" yellow silk lining!</div>
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Construction was very simple. The bodice, skirt, and sleeves were made separately and I left the edges raw inside. If I was going to wear this often I might whip over the waist seam, but I've never had problems with raw armscyes unless the fabric is prone to bad fraying.</div>
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Up close there's quite a bit of visible stitching. I found I had to top stitch the velvet on otherwise it rolled and tricked me into thinking I had it flat.</div>
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Samantha and I posed on the front balcony of a lovely museum house.</div>
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ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-57059436361074341762015-01-21T22:08:00.000-05:002015-01-21T22:08:31.330-05:00Everlasting Ringlets<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Earlier this month I attended the Battle of New Orleans bicentennial event. I spent two days in costume wandering about the battlefield as well as the French Quarter, including a lovely ball I attended the second evening. I made quite a few new pieces, which I'll get to soon, but first I wanted to talk about hair! It's constantly a problem to keep those beautiful curls bouncing for an entire day through all of the abuse. Usually I use a modern setting lotion, wet set pin curls, and a good shellacking of hairspray to keep them from sagging. But this time around I left the modern methods at home and took the opportunity to experiment with the method women of the time were using.<div>
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My friend, <a href="http://stay-ingalive.blogspot.com/">Abby</a>, has been studying haircare of the 18th century, particular the use of <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/HeirloomHaircare">pomatum and powder</a> in both styling and cleanliness. So, I brought with me a bit of both to put them through a trial by fire.</div>
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I wet my hair the evening before, worked the pomatum through, and put my whole head up in pin curls. That morning I took out the curls and found they were so well ensconced I couldn't get them to do the spiral fall I was looking for on the sides. I think the problem is in my short hair and the lack of weight needed. So, I pulled out a small barrel curling iron (something they would have had, but I don't think the hotel would have appreciated a brasier being lit in the bathroom) and encouraged some of the curls into the proper shape. The curls on top I left alone as they seemed to lay well. I also decided to forgo the powder since the finish already looked very similar to portraits of the time.</div>
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This was soon after arriving to the site, with brisk winds that actually gave my face windburn that day. Despite all of the tousling, the curls were perfect.</div>
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A few hours of walking about the site later, still no loss of curls!</div>
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The next day I used the same technique, only rinsing my hair and adding a bit of pomade to achieve the wet set pin curls. However, my other hat sat much further down on my head (something I need to fix), so it spent almost all day squashing the poor curls I had so tediously set!</div>
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But all was not lost! I reset the curls for a couple of hours before the evening event and fixed up a bit with the curling iron again. Mind you, the most squashed part (the top), I never used the iron on and it still bounced back with just a bit of pinning while dry. So, after at least 15 hours my very straight hair was still very willing to curl just perfectly!</div>
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Prior to the event I tried a few small curls set for three hours that I then brushed and ran my fingers through and this is what resulted after all of the abuse. Needless to say, taking my hair down after the event I looked like orphan Annie. 1780s hedgehogs anyone?</div>
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I've still got a number of tests I'm planning to put this system of haircare through, but I hope you will too! Check out <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/HeirloomHaircare">Abby's Etsy shop here!</a></div>
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ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-41482241894541150122014-09-07T20:03:00.002-04:002014-09-07T20:04:34.905-04:001670s Gown<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I realized I never quite got around to posting about the 1670s gown I made earlier this year. It's mostly based on the satin bodice in Seventeenth Century Women's Dress Patterns. The instructions and patterns offer so much detail there wasn't much else to research in terms of construction. This was for a film shoot at Bacon's Castle, and it didn't seem like the lady of the house would need something quite so elaborately trimmed. I also needed something slightly later in date than the extant in the book, the event occurring in 1674. I settled on the look of these gowns, the bodice being untrimmed with split sleeves, a style seemingly common in many 1670 portraits. I didn't want to be too far ahead with the fashion.<br />
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Margaretha Van Raephorst by Johannes Mijtens, 1668</div>
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Portrait of a Lady by Adriaen Backer, 1676</div>
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<img alt="1670 Dudleia Cullum, née North, Lady Cullum by Sir Peter Lely" class="pinImage" src="http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/c0/a2/d4/c0a2d4fae9ec157f82971f6e85cb53f9.jpg" height="320" style="margin: 0px auto; padding: 40px 0px;" width="263" /></div>
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Lady Cullum by Sir Peter Lely, 1670</div>
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<img alt="Lady Mary Gough, attributed to Mary Beale, ca 1670, Tamworth Castle" class="pinImage" src="http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/40/e7/0b/40e70b663a0d9eb65bd129b599383063.jpg" height="320" width="265" /></div>
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Lady Mary Gough by Mary Beale, 1670</div>
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I already had just enough red silk taffeta for the project, swaying me to not purchase yards of expensive silk satin. I did decide to do the entire project by hand (despite the time crunch) because the boning channels were running stitched rather than back-stitched. So much faster. I know I made some minor alterations, particularly to the seams because of lack of trims, but most of the steps were closely followed.</div>
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I made the chemise for it as well, though to be honest neither it nor the gown are fully finished in the pictures. I still have to bind the lower tabs and fell the chemise seams. It's still wearable! I have something I'm wearing it for in November again, so perhaps by then. I'll also need new hairpieces as the ones I used then were barely passable and I'm now almost a red-head.</div>
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ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-75522489032203270022014-07-18T11:48:00.001-04:002014-07-18T11:48:23.823-04:001820s Trades Fair<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Last Saturday I was part of a group of tradespeople showing our skills and wares in Brentsville, VA at their <a href="http://www.pwcgov.org/government/dept/publicworks/hp/pages/brentsville-courthouse-historic-centre.aspx">historic court house</a>. It was a lovely day and we got to tour the court house, newly restored, as well as the in-progress jail next door. If you live in the area and missed us, don't worry, the plan is to make this an annual event (though perhaps a little earlier in the year). The site dates to the 1820s, so we all had a small shift in our normal apparel.</div>
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<a href="http://couturecourtesan.blogspot.com/">Samantha</a> brought a large assortment of <a href="http://couturecourtesan.blogspot.com/2014/07/the-pretty-milliner.html">Millinery wares</a>, including the worlds largest hat.</div>
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I had my shoemaking set up, attempting to keep the sharp bits out of the hands of guests.</div>
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Joseph kept us very well fed; roast chicken with bacon, pork chops with onions and apples, and cucumber salad just to name a few items on the menu.</div>
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Michael set up on the tailors board, and Jay (hiding behind the tree) talked about the work of artificers and leather breeches makers.</div>
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I constructed a mid-1820s style gown from <a href="http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/5880.aspx">B&T lavender muslin</a> based on <a href="http://www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk/object/1349130">an original at Snowshill</a> (also in Costume in Detail). The fabric pleats so easily! Honestly, I didn't even iron the pleats around the hem. Also, I swear the hem isn't too long when I'm not standing in grass. I do NOT need to sew another pleat. Really, I don't.</div>
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The back fastens with hooks and eyes, the bodice and sleeves are lined in white cotton. The kerchief wrapped around the cap seems to be a common thing in <a href="http://www.pinterest.com/pin/241646336230988425/">images of tradeswomen</a>.</div>
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A glimpse of my new shoes- so comfortable I wore them all weekend until it started raining!</div>
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And a glimpse of another pair of 1820s shoes, though this pair has a different owner.</div>
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Trimming down the insole for a future pair of boots.</div>
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The three ladies of the day: Sarah, Samantha, and I.</div>
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And our dapper tailor, Michael. Check out the fancy Morocco leather slippers Samantha made for him! I got to play teacher for that process.</div>
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ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-24720573799876685452014-06-29T11:32:00.002-04:002015-11-18T10:51:54.197-05:00Closet Sale<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
These are all quick descriptions of what I'm selling, linking back to their Etsy page. Except for the shoes at the bottom, which I can't sell on Etsy. If you're interested in any of those three pairs send me an email at goldenhindshoes at gmail.com<br />
I have more I'll list over the next week if this sale is successful!<br />
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Sold! <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/194689753/1770s-pearl-green-riding-habit?ref=listing-5">Pearl Green 1770s wool riding habit</a>. All hand-sewn. Coat is lined with silk taffeta and white linen, trimmed in silk velvet, and fastened with silver thread deaths head buttons. Waistcoat is silk taffeta with covered buttons. Petticoat hem is faced with wool tape. $425<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXyQbQO0Z9FqWEuryNWJlcwhkwv91hCuJi4OhUaJazvma4BLmGFgSFoM2wWNuHwj8E-ybCEhKbeoHndej-AHtGOzI0gUYDb48uKlUYW4ZpACsHUUgx0Yw-_lzl2224TijoRUSS8H2brjY/s1600/2014-06-28+16.59.26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXyQbQO0Z9FqWEuryNWJlcwhkwv91hCuJi4OhUaJazvma4BLmGFgSFoM2wWNuHwj8E-ybCEhKbeoHndej-AHtGOzI0gUYDb48uKlUYW4ZpACsHUUgx0Yw-_lzl2224TijoRUSS8H2brjY/s1600/2014-06-28+16.59.26.jpg" width="206" /></a></div>
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Sold! <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/194688683/1770s-pumpkin-camblet-gown?ref=listing-0">1770s Camblet gown and petticoat</a>. Closed front, English pleated back with polonaise ties. Self trimmed around neck and sleeves. Beautiful copper toned fabric, a mix of silk, wool, and linen. All hand-sewn. $240<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRRyzK9zexrc9kNE7dpwfqloQJRMMpFphhbjg8A3oEvZILGGJGW8MuINq7eWj-6XiUU3beQIBtCDXnCZiW8l1nRCecoNhKurPeZhL8mU64mClUQiIT7btFNB9uCFnsnjw3eRZIiM6X_Vw/s1600/2014-06-28+16.49.29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRRyzK9zexrc9kNE7dpwfqloQJRMMpFphhbjg8A3oEvZILGGJGW8MuINq7eWj-6XiUU3beQIBtCDXnCZiW8l1nRCecoNhKurPeZhL8mU64mClUQiIT7btFNB9uCFnsnjw3eRZIiM6X_Vw/s1600/2014-06-28+16.49.29.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
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Sold! <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/176923794/1770-85-olive-linen-gown?ref=listing-10">1770s Olive linen gown and petticoat</a>. Closed front, Quartered back. Heavy-weight twill linen, surprisingly warm and very durable. All hand-sewn. $185<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL3Ei3T0fhIl3NjfrPZ6ligwEpmrbcPPUqPeytYk806ZiXCZYn53pHNHhYHEIZEdf_dVLx7yIuVX_56Xh3bWdxKaq8K16kzs-2dNHjSsehcxqKlkmkQtaUMFskzSWdyxldt-yIslub_Ms/s1600/2014-06-28+17.08.07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL3Ei3T0fhIl3NjfrPZ6ligwEpmrbcPPUqPeytYk806ZiXCZYn53pHNHhYHEIZEdf_dVLx7yIuVX_56Xh3bWdxKaq8K16kzs-2dNHjSsehcxqKlkmkQtaUMFskzSWdyxldt-yIslub_Ms/s1600/2014-06-28+17.08.07.jpg" width="197" /></a></div>
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Sold! <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/194679078/cotton-print-1810s-regency-gown?ref=listing-7">1810s cotton print day gown</a>. Made from a beautiful figured and striped lightweight cotton, this classic Regency style gown is perfect for warm days. $175.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnbp-eDhyrMyD_UuF83j4G6RdCTM7AsmPPExnZjaHgGTTNbNphs3DMzNagMBuxtUe11ox0Huh2mr9oiYcvXH9IxFU0i1M-oItHDvwTuqS2ozJgS6BMZya7tKKJhlXCXvMi9SFDS8ZjVVA/s1600/2014-06-28+17.14.36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnbp-eDhyrMyD_UuF83j4G6RdCTM7AsmPPExnZjaHgGTTNbNphs3DMzNagMBuxtUe11ox0Huh2mr9oiYcvXH9IxFU0i1M-oItHDvwTuqS2ozJgS6BMZya7tKKJhlXCXvMi9SFDS8ZjVVA/s1600/2014-06-28+17.14.36.jpg" width="196" /></a></div>
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Sold! <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/194542196/1913-rose-evening-gown?ref=listing-4">1913 style evening gown</a>. Pink silk charmeuse base with gold worked silk net, silk chiffon, and silk velvet. $245<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjop4-OJ3jLZo8lLBKu_DdyA1zqLMcKv4zl3PQZ3uzSu1GqbBK0-X3EVev1Wk3GinsVZPzHuCoB8rMaKA2HlAXm2nuPdD0vSTACVs1XCrrAV3KOxzEP6aZ9E3HIV6iI3QwU-fS_ViHWSKo/s1600/IMG_2356.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjop4-OJ3jLZo8lLBKu_DdyA1zqLMcKv4zl3PQZ3uzSu1GqbBK0-X3EVev1Wk3GinsVZPzHuCoB8rMaKA2HlAXm2nuPdD0vSTACVs1XCrrAV3KOxzEP6aZ9E3HIV6iI3QwU-fS_ViHWSKo/s1600/IMG_2356.JPG" width="146" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/194689191/19th-c-printed-cotton-bed-gown?ref=listing-6">Early 19th century cotton print jacket</a>. Constructed from Duran Textiles printed cotton, all hand-sewn. A channel around the neck and under the bust allow for adjustment to fit. $120.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2GSAbpdH5QJRWkUVCSae8jL6O6DM94-I-npOshyphenhyphenAS90TvA7zsmbkx4XxbTzKBer9zPYOpwuy3ebxU73DvSVn72KoIbwYXyzndyUkDi-55xc8e74kt9TozTe4yQOm5KgibCZOQfLfaLiI/s1600/2014-06-28+16.59.00.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2GSAbpdH5QJRWkUVCSae8jL6O6DM94-I-npOshyphenhyphenAS90TvA7zsmbkx4XxbTzKBer9zPYOpwuy3ebxU73DvSVn72KoIbwYXyzndyUkDi-55xc8e74kt9TozTe4yQOm5KgibCZOQfLfaLiI/s1600/2014-06-28+16.59.00.jpg" width="190" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/194542850/floral-dotted-swiss-cotton?ref=listing-3">Flowered and spotted sheer cotton swiss fabric</a>, 8 yards available at 52" wide. Appropriate for mid-19th century gowns. $10 per yard.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzKh4x6GjSn5vMK-MC2ypThk0at6jqbu7PDPwIDB19j6qv5zWavx5PvCxumzTHd4DykloB_Zp18DddoXE2IM76NJwoL-EH4-jRlPFmOmaF5BhRbN9Ov8xYgd-bu5sYM5lbxionbC51AX4/s1600/2014-06-26+15.08.58.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzKh4x6GjSn5vMK-MC2ypThk0at6jqbu7PDPwIDB19j6qv5zWavx5PvCxumzTHd4DykloB_Zp18DddoXE2IM76NJwoL-EH4-jRlPFmOmaF5BhRbN9Ov8xYgd-bu5sYM5lbxionbC51AX4/s1600/2014-06-26+15.08.58.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Sold! <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/194543602/glazed-black-white-floral-print-cotton?ref=listing-2">Black and white floral cotton print</a>, 7.75 yards and 14 yards available at 55" wide. Glazed finish, mid-weight. Perfect for a mid-19th century half-mourning gown. $7.50 per yard.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6nLKe3gScKQjF2sa21qmeCYQr-umDu4epPF1xkhYu-lYRdWbMVIrXFhzJXB6yItw2bpUQfI_FRtsYR66j2D9yJRUa5BJ3wpdC6xmfpHlBYYUsveDI0uPb0MQire3t3aSSbLtWOKDdU3s/s1600/2014-06-26+15.11.26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6nLKe3gScKQjF2sa21qmeCYQr-umDu4epPF1xkhYu-lYRdWbMVIrXFhzJXB6yItw2bpUQfI_FRtsYR66j2D9yJRUa5BJ3wpdC6xmfpHlBYYUsveDI0uPb0MQire3t3aSSbLtWOKDdU3s/s1600/2014-06-26+15.11.26.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Sold! <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/194544206/grey-cream-striped-silk-taffeta?ref=listing-1">Grey and Cream striped silk taffeta</a>, 2.5 yards at 54" wide. This is the same fabric my cut-away gown was made from. The grey is a very dark charcoal with a slight greenish hue, very beautiful. It's just slightly slubby, but no where near enough to be a shantung. $35 ($14 per yard).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaQBbfHasF-R2Td7ATB5lKyk3zl-BqMFizhgvXfx5gW-NHTXc7zbEVpIOq9Lw9GlcO0CP9dflYiA5RX9Of4Db1GlCCBloqTi25cyHaV83zqu_-03MxGemubDk9qbll1YWeGPQXqg1x4dE/s1600/2014-06-26+15.20.30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaQBbfHasF-R2Td7ATB5lKyk3zl-BqMFizhgvXfx5gW-NHTXc7zbEVpIOq9Lw9GlcO0CP9dflYiA5RX9Of4Db1GlCCBloqTi25cyHaV83zqu_-03MxGemubDk9qbll1YWeGPQXqg1x4dE/s1600/2014-06-26+15.20.30.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Sold! <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/194679602/pumpkin-and-cream-silk-taffeta-fabric?ref=listing-9">Pumpkin and cream striped silk taffeta</a>, 2.25 yards & 2 yards available at 54" wide. While not a period appropriate fabric it's perfect for home decor. Some of the stripes have a satin finish that gives this silk a very rich appearance and great weight. $10 per yard.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAPxjs8Xe5WWW2j2rMrif4310d9wNBS0XlTI2xBay0nD0GM2Mrvn6nByQpBOx3Vyl-LWg_WXeS4aOovwDDi2M2NbcPWl48uvow9WBFyoC3NzzaNEavkn7aTmXD6KND-KdcYOaTTUY3uqc/s1600/2014-06-26+15.23.01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAPxjs8Xe5WWW2j2rMrif4310d9wNBS0XlTI2xBay0nD0GM2Mrvn6nByQpBOx3Vyl-LWg_WXeS4aOovwDDi2M2NbcPWl48uvow9WBFyoC3NzzaNEavkn7aTmXD6KND-KdcYOaTTUY3uqc/s1600/2014-06-26+15.23.01.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Sold! <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/194680074/burgundy-gold-damask?ref=listing-8">Burgundy and gold damask polyester? fabric</a>, 7 yards available at 56" wide. It isn't silk, but it doesn't have a bad shine and it's a beautiful design and color, as well as being reversible. $6 a yard.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrHtT2LnNoWzvsvqVZIC4QOi_NSvLV8wA5GhBld5c0M5Qi0B8YqCOFTAb0niDTs5w4RmKNN_jQlD9bZ_9nRaRWmACUOskFilkUkYHaOHFNwzawxGlOkEDOcIuLHFVp-RYmOo2eGyQCrlo/s1600/2014-06-26+15.32.32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrHtT2LnNoWzvsvqVZIC4QOi_NSvLV8wA5GhBld5c0M5Qi0B8YqCOFTAb0niDTs5w4RmKNN_jQlD9bZ_9nRaRWmACUOskFilkUkYHaOHFNwzawxGlOkEDOcIuLHFVp-RYmOo2eGyQCrlo/s1600/2014-06-26+15.32.32.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Sold! Robert Land black and cream 1860s boots, size 7 1/2. Worn once, almost no wear. $110<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOMDT3GcxJ1OqD_EY0kAiN8tBrbDdPPiV10Qj9WW_e8C-fa7kxGsdQkaK6wTgtNTaEY9MJQjgsSqTlp1TyihjxnV6m9kuFiQ2yNxfnIk2sMHheXazdI2XFuY4VGnsshybXInKRoEh-Zhs/s1600/2014-06-29+11.10.29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOMDT3GcxJ1OqD_EY0kAiN8tBrbDdPPiV10Qj9WW_e8C-fa7kxGsdQkaK6wTgtNTaEY9MJQjgsSqTlp1TyihjxnV6m9kuFiQ2yNxfnIk2sMHheXazdI2XFuY4VGnsshybXInKRoEh-Zhs/s1600/2014-06-29+11.10.29.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Sold! Burnley & Trowbridge early 19th century shoes in tan, size 7. Very light wear. $75<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjecwbtYHV8dZf4KJW75iqKMy1TIjhWpqu5Vig2-nzf4j8Gsm_rtNOi9ckBDSDVjpgiknk_C3d-kmIoJVbsmSnxR5aSq1tGO4thyglAhU1l4DtFo-RUA5DPpWgsrnFp1TPYUPyTPICvH4Y/s1600/2014-06-29+11.14.16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjecwbtYHV8dZf4KJW75iqKMy1TIjhWpqu5Vig2-nzf4j8Gsm_rtNOi9ckBDSDVjpgiknk_C3d-kmIoJVbsmSnxR5aSq1tGO4thyglAhU1l4DtFo-RUA5DPpWgsrnFp1TPYUPyTPICvH4Y/s1600/2014-06-29+11.14.16.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSLqSC2PTz3Dw1I2GZ8Zz-VP6NKQ1P5eYTdsURpN7-hyud66o9fByOWne_7yXPOermoWScgRUdvvwP9MIl1kZXJtMjktjcejQTyDEWsaNBJgkAG1MjQ611mGfJXO_YtOw2Vjc6NdMIFrQ/s1600/2014-06-29+11.14.04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSLqSC2PTz3Dw1I2GZ8Zz-VP6NKQ1P5eYTdsURpN7-hyud66o9fByOWne_7yXPOermoWScgRUdvvwP9MIl1kZXJtMjktjcejQTyDEWsaNBJgkAG1MjQ611mGfJXO_YtOw2Vjc6NdMIFrQ/s1600/2014-06-29+11.14.04.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTgAlazAivYo3KDZguvEhrbFxrIDE5y8DVOOs1bjIlDYCs_xUUnjH8V5gpejzBfn_hI4DmabAjYs1y5phyphenhyphen6Vo06XgUjJCUKCFwf1ml2sUJchZCbagpT1qUfGfzK-528iVHg9_I0l4x0t4/s1600/2014-06-29+11.14.26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTgAlazAivYo3KDZguvEhrbFxrIDE5y8DVOOs1bjIlDYCs_xUUnjH8V5gpejzBfn_hI4DmabAjYs1y5phyphenhyphen6Vo06XgUjJCUKCFwf1ml2sUJchZCbagpT1qUfGfzK-528iVHg9_I0l4x0t4/s1600/2014-06-29+11.14.26.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Modern shoes with 1790s trimmings, size 7 1/2. $45<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIIwezD1C6QjjCt5cHRkfPuIEvQszby3BjSDC_XhyLj3uK2h3tOc8UBVT8IGr-eUc7mXu4a7qA_f3NbLWxbteZP5YCYdTx80y4RI7aX7_-uwSkCkmlY1LfakV4DYuehRaHLCWQdWS53vk/s1600/2014-06-29+11.12.18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIIwezD1C6QjjCt5cHRkfPuIEvQszby3BjSDC_XhyLj3uK2h3tOc8UBVT8IGr-eUc7mXu4a7qA_f3NbLWxbteZP5YCYdTx80y4RI7aX7_-uwSkCkmlY1LfakV4DYuehRaHLCWQdWS53vk/s1600/2014-06-29+11.12.18.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI4CMOho8QAIXSbnQSrq2Q2ZjVMZU3d1BlhhIbEGA5pvglLyoc3i252-9eulQq3B1AX6mdT1ZSqfcFZRLAJ-tODzPwY_WjC7S-O7APGNKIVuBfpbFadcNoaz2ilOekM2Wg8Qd7vSLtTiI/s1600/2014-06-29+11.12.06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI4CMOho8QAIXSbnQSrq2Q2ZjVMZU3d1BlhhIbEGA5pvglLyoc3i252-9eulQq3B1AX6mdT1ZSqfcFZRLAJ-tODzPwY_WjC7S-O7APGNKIVuBfpbFadcNoaz2ilOekM2Wg8Qd7vSLtTiI/s1600/2014-06-29+11.12.06.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-32846405864417199872014-06-23T20:18:00.000-04:002014-06-23T20:59:07.653-04:00Fitting Regency Gowns Part II<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Part two of<a href="http://mantuadiary.blogspot.com/2014/04/fitting-regency-gowns.html"> Fitting Regency Gowns</a>. Thankfully YWU and FR have been saved, so I give this second part gladly!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b>Gathered neckline pulling</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">How much gathering occurs in a neckline and where it is
placed can be affected not only by the overall size of the neckline, but the
shape as well.</span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkeavCS1py4_1gcPvGfzGh1WM0qGkpYFGUGax5FlNSFBLajv0VPcch70ij9p3xQDJ2dz6v4dk1pP_dcKurZ3XIRCy49StVUz8Lt7zsR7308Tl3alMBDrFJiCBiYVH6k862fvgi7MxyhJQ/s1600/24-+Gathered+neckline+on+Gwendolyn.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkeavCS1py4_1gcPvGfzGh1WM0qGkpYFGUGax5FlNSFBLajv0VPcch70ij9p3xQDJ2dz6v4dk1pP_dcKurZ3XIRCy49StVUz8Lt7zsR7308Tl3alMBDrFJiCBiYVH6k862fvgi7MxyhJQ/s1600/24-+Gathered+neckline+on+Gwendolyn.JPG" height="400" width="301" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">This particular shape of
neckline on Gwendolyn does best when the gathers are concentrated toward the
front and do not continue up the shoulders (24).</span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio57I2DP7_3K7bwlI2bOyTI4NT2q1eEwSd23w-FJQfNnN8SHsdmNEYocHw9tbC_Xbqc7wTDZGiUWOqBFB-YBh-VRhJd4og8j2_rNZ2ou5PntQ4Y5StsW5YnL5Mkg5p4KbDEWZOMx_jlwY/s1600/25-+Gathered+neckline+on+Gwendolyn%252C+too+high.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio57I2DP7_3K7bwlI2bOyTI4NT2q1eEwSd23w-FJQfNnN8SHsdmNEYocHw9tbC_Xbqc7wTDZGiUWOqBFB-YBh-VRhJd4og8j2_rNZ2ou5PntQ4Y5StsW5YnL5Mkg5p4KbDEWZOMx_jlwY/s1600/25-+Gathered+neckline+on+Gwendolyn%252C+too+high.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">If the gathers are spread out, up the
shoulders, the armscye becomes very full and wavy(25).</span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmoN2hsmtUoQHWOjSS-GjgT64mAwZ_EFh3ATtBWW_Y6_V-k3-lo4vnSLupyy6_LK-2oNoTdP6WgMXLWja3oTekba5OXNqBkrgICPi8IQkNOGt83A9__n3pb-e1uELQdyDwmWni0tGab-k/s1600/26-+Gathered+neckline+shapes.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmoN2hsmtUoQHWOjSS-GjgT64mAwZ_EFh3ATtBWW_Y6_V-k3-lo4vnSLupyy6_LK-2oNoTdP6WgMXLWja3oTekba5OXNqBkrgICPi8IQkNOGt83A9__n3pb-e1uELQdyDwmWni0tGab-k/s1600/26-+Gathered+neckline+shapes.JPG" height="217" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The reason this doesn’t work is that this
bodice shape has a squared neckline, as shown on the right (26).</span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">The bodice on left is made to gather up the
shoulders, sloping outward, allowing the gathering to be diagonal toward the
underbust rather than horiztonal toward the shoulder.</span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">You’ll see the finished garment of this
pattern in the next section.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<h1 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><o:p></o:p></span></h1>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><b>Wrong waistline angle or Gaping underbust</b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">If the underbust does not have a drawstring in it, it can be
difficult to make it snug enough to not gap, particularly in the back.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is also an issue of the waistline
drooping in back, rather than angling up slightly as is appropriate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhze0mztd81BI9e4JtjnsWe9XA9DBFEza6hSk9yl1Wosw8RNZiZT0psHfhP1BHpgpDmPiq9cIRvdnYFJC_-qqSeDv5aBeqgwwqjLi9x_yQ_TWDNePO-2Mi1YLmb-QFzrlRxMcJUGgW3cC8/s1600/27-+Twill+tape+waistline.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhze0mztd81BI9e4JtjnsWe9XA9DBFEza6hSk9yl1Wosw8RNZiZT0psHfhP1BHpgpDmPiq9cIRvdnYFJC_-qqSeDv5aBeqgwwqjLi9x_yQ_TWDNePO-2Mi1YLmb-QFzrlRxMcJUGgW3cC8/s1600/27-+Twill+tape+waistline.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The easiest way that I have found to find the
perfect waistline size and angle is to pin a tape around the waist and attach
the bodice to it (27).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s especially
helpful with gathers under the bust to know how much to gather in to.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Sleeve issues:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<h1 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><o:p></o:p></span></h1>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><b>Shallow Top</b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">If the sleeve head is too short, it can create numerous
problems.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is very likely to pull at
the shoulder strap, causing it to gap, wrinkle, or even pull off the
shoulder.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Nb1PvGUF6R4sCnhETmhGRjCRaVqn6T1bUx7szRP4RA786UW8LP5S080POBV52jCfel1WMQhDrK9pEG1FuEYPk16VA9w4L5OGxZJQ3wkZSCe9nyRADIz6U9ciKjQL7jcf8WyURFcAUy8/s1600/28-+Sleeve+head+too+short.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Nb1PvGUF6R4sCnhETmhGRjCRaVqn6T1bUx7szRP4RA786UW8LP5S080POBV52jCfel1WMQhDrK9pEG1FuEYPk16VA9w4L5OGxZJQ3wkZSCe9nyRADIz6U9ciKjQL7jcf8WyURFcAUy8/s1600/28-+Sleeve+head+too+short.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">You’ll also see wrinkles
angling from under the arm towards the top center (28).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbrWBh6InDQQp8ZYmlIX_498eEQhYDvL3CKeGau8KWlPghOdweGmUwDgThDT52RZTIeMVgW0Id89_U_lO50fQERgR9o6JbMV41_3eBu2YjktGecRN94A3rM09IsVLmyoh-SXjwn2L-jEY/s1600/29-+Sleeve+head+height+shapes.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbrWBh6InDQQp8ZYmlIX_498eEQhYDvL3CKeGau8KWlPghOdweGmUwDgThDT52RZTIeMVgW0Id89_U_lO50fQERgR9o6JbMV41_3eBu2YjktGecRN94A3rM09IsVLmyoh-SXjwn2L-jEY/s1600/29-+Sleeve+head+height+shapes.JPG" height="289" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">That means that the underarm is too high
compared to the top of the sleeve, most often because the top is too short
rather than the bottom being to high (29).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>If you dip out the bottom, particularly on a longer or fitted sleeve,
this could bring the narrower circumference up higher, making the sleeve too
tight.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<h1 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><o:p></o:p></span></h1>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><b>Narrow Top</b></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXJXvvwnJ9MdWK15Qh7PP7GZJxBkGLEP2RLyAIsDKWQ3FBaK-C-idhboNo5dEYy5jOUby7cZ7W_86H6Ft7-gAAgkOD-7BqHWFFRVLMtPwZqP0Ptr6g4XdzyzuHhLkmYJXLCHkZLzyn2iU/s1600/30-+Sleeve+head+too+narrow.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXJXvvwnJ9MdWK15Qh7PP7GZJxBkGLEP2RLyAIsDKWQ3FBaK-C-idhboNo5dEYy5jOUby7cZ7W_86H6Ft7-gAAgkOD-7BqHWFFRVLMtPwZqP0Ptr6g4XdzyzuHhLkmYJXLCHkZLzyn2iU/s1600/30-+Sleeve+head+too+narrow.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">If the sleeve head is too narrow it will prevent the arm
from raising, pull greatly on the bodice shoulders, and possibly even create
horizontal pull marks across the arm (30).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL-SkZO1e10_yLS2qEyH3thLLxAhBS0alWn6wY6AIRUgneHJSfQ487uYU5I572LgHG3y0DcD-qXDZKS4cdj-LuGn_Tms_xeVYjaaxykv2f6ta9NgoBMuJ9DQn2M1czQtEjOhvUGrX3N4Q/s1600/31-+Sleeve+head+width+shapes.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL-SkZO1e10_yLS2qEyH3thLLxAhBS0alWn6wY6AIRUgneHJSfQ487uYU5I572LgHG3y0DcD-qXDZKS4cdj-LuGn_Tms_xeVYjaaxykv2f6ta9NgoBMuJ9DQn2M1czQtEjOhvUGrX3N4Q/s1600/31-+Sleeve+head+width+shapes.JPG" height="260" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">A wider curve, possibly even a flat section along the top, can fix this
problem (31).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<h1 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><o:p></o:p></span></h1>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><b>Restricted movement</b></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLVXDxMFqNKUKDna-dWHyolEfVM0x2HlpQ60hZYAUoWTOORrXFi364IPXzHtkgpXZ2PYo1vBbmXJVhmoXaF2ODCBVu2u0q9NNvQbxvJSpGn_zQ7NpDkf8Z1S2bwdA7hgf6LjYIyQk7cjs/s1600/32-+Restricted+movement.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLVXDxMFqNKUKDna-dWHyolEfVM0x2HlpQ60hZYAUoWTOORrXFi364IPXzHtkgpXZ2PYo1vBbmXJVhmoXaF2ODCBVu2u0q9NNvQbxvJSpGn_zQ7NpDkf8Z1S2bwdA7hgf6LjYIyQk7cjs/s1600/32-+Restricted+movement.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Even if the sleeve head does not seem too narrow or too
short, there may still be problems with lifting the arm or reaching out in
front (32).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s very common with fitted
sleeves or the narrow backs of the time period.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>You could bring your armscye further out on the shoulder or further up
under the arm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, you don’t have
to sacrifice a narrow back or have a seam cutting in under your arm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSHitVnSwI51wTLXIx8F9D4pXph-r6qH3D04qaKCLXPC2mvZhN5YcoxBZv_MowVmw9olozPlELr9IBQLWNvgzBnGLqXtooMNFq_aMpZpCTCyLDiqXum2ZCpaKdxKuGAwcD7DrWiAQmbmM/s1600/33-+Restricted+movement+fixed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSHitVnSwI51wTLXIx8F9D4pXph-r6qH3D04qaKCLXPC2mvZhN5YcoxBZv_MowVmw9olozPlELr9IBQLWNvgzBnGLqXtooMNFq_aMpZpCTCyLDiqXum2ZCpaKdxKuGAwcD7DrWiAQmbmM/s1600/33-+Restricted+movement+fixed.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The sleeves can be adjusted to fit, just
expect that there will be wrinkles in the back (33).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix0uqr3IFKGTMIn_ujRkcdDY7J2Lw8XMzOoQO453dBZHVGHlMVzWkvwzHRKwjxlQsMZB3Mm7zzMVHoCGBbs0P4Oeg4HPc4pim3pAky6DAoAljFpeQNRXY1yC_zTB5M09SCWroqNr93Czs/s1600/34-+Restricted+movement+fixed%252C+arm+up.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix0uqr3IFKGTMIn_ujRkcdDY7J2Lw8XMzOoQO453dBZHVGHlMVzWkvwzHRKwjxlQsMZB3Mm7zzMVHoCGBbs0P4Oeg4HPc4pim3pAky6DAoAljFpeQNRXY1yC_zTB5M09SCWroqNr93Czs/s1600/34-+Restricted+movement+fixed%252C+arm+up.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">This allows the arm to raise up without
pulling on the bodice (34).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl66QESvLpulQHQb8jUbwObAnDaz3li_hQ923YF00mTXUfcaE_V2R4edWiIWVz14shB4BpUeACDnXa44fVVTiu5SRvt7QkNjZXAhBkQ5K-8iyDe5rOPg9jngG1DZ-RiKwTOt9bCUjgq_A/s1600/35-+Restricted+movement%252C+adjusting+sleeve+in+back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl66QESvLpulQHQb8jUbwObAnDaz3li_hQ923YF00mTXUfcaE_V2R4edWiIWVz14shB4BpUeACDnXa44fVVTiu5SRvt7QkNjZXAhBkQ5K-8iyDe5rOPg9jngG1DZ-RiKwTOt9bCUjgq_A/s1600/35-+Restricted+movement%252C+adjusting+sleeve+in+back.JPG" height="273" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Making the
back corner more square allows for this (35).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">You can also make the sleeve fuller to allow for more
movement, or because of style preference.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I generally increase the width of mine from a fitted sleeve
one-and-a-half times.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The very simple
way of doing this is to take a fitted sleeve pattern which fits you and the
gown, then cut it into strips.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqUBH5IsrtIQkyuQHrERkHhWQppFlsMm94mv5t8nKZ3zWo8GGJmg-xIcDNaKP1LNCoeZNvdpff2727IG6ZudJjcUBMiJqqvq1IAERaHVeDNM6YZhKIRB80t9KtBwWeUamB83SODXmTP0g/s1600/36-+Wider+sleeve.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqUBH5IsrtIQkyuQHrERkHhWQppFlsMm94mv5t8nKZ3zWo8GGJmg-xIcDNaKP1LNCoeZNvdpff2727IG6ZudJjcUBMiJqqvq1IAERaHVeDNM6YZhKIRB80t9KtBwWeUamB83SODXmTP0g/s1600/36-+Wider+sleeve.JPG" height="276" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Filling
in the lines between the spaced strips will give you a fuller sleeve (36).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Err on the higher side when connecting lines,
possibly adding a small allowance to the top and/or bottom of the sleeve to
have it “poof” out more.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Skirt issues:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<h1 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><o:p></o:p></span></h1>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><b>Pulling across front</b></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">When flat-fitted fronts are brought all the way around to
the back for gathers to begin, there are often wrinkles across the front where
the gown is trying to fit over the hips.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There are a few solutions to this issue.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>First is to use panels with angled seams.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There are a number of examples of this style in<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> </b>Patterns of Fashion 1 and The Cut of
Women’s Clothes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Another option is to
place fullness at the very side, either in the form of a pleat or gathers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even though you don’t often see this in
portraits, it can be well hidden under the arm.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">In this last section I’m going to show four of my gowns from
the Regency period and talk about what does, or does not, fit well.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOgisq1lomX0-cnemt8tI8xSTeMoZiIVsmh13L3PAImI0zwAdIu8YfmOYTMxrH9alRD-pYsCYcGUa82R8xaAJKsAkuMHeYVCdQv4BmHgDoL2v1px3PfXvamVXkfAgfVhWPnAh7ZYTSJP8/s1600/37-+1795+Gown.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOgisq1lomX0-cnemt8tI8xSTeMoZiIVsmh13L3PAImI0zwAdIu8YfmOYTMxrH9alRD-pYsCYcGUa82R8xaAJKsAkuMHeYVCdQv4BmHgDoL2v1px3PfXvamVXkfAgfVhWPnAh7ZYTSJP8/s1600/37-+1795+Gown.JPG" height="400" width="247" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The first is of the style of the 1790s (37).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is the gown to which the gathered front
pattern belongs to above.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The neckline
gathers up well, not pulling or placing too much fullness on the
shoulders.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Depending on how I move the
gathers the neckline can be more round or square.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The main issue comes with the sleeves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwj8zAqMkEbQFuJIaV7W24VrpPcZyEUKsrHSU6Ie0Z4wGwsKmIMgKO307WyWgDkabvzVUvGKCPS2Juc-bc_lA3NnfTnpJha7VBahJ7r6Q6T75b9iw-8RIGAPAMRNbn6sp6OexV5ASETtc/s1600/38-+1795+Gown+Back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwj8zAqMkEbQFuJIaV7W24VrpPcZyEUKsrHSU6Ie0Z4wGwsKmIMgKO307WyWgDkabvzVUvGKCPS2Juc-bc_lA3NnfTnpJha7VBahJ7r6Q6T75b9iw-8RIGAPAMRNbn6sp6OexV5ASETtc/s1600/38-+1795+Gown+Back.JPG" height="400" width="248" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">They are not quite wide enough to fit into
such a small back (38).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If my shoulders
were set further back, it would be fine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It would be best (if made again) to move the armscye forward in front
and back or to add extra to the sleeve in back.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It’s difficult to fit to a narrow back with fitted sleeves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The fullness in the front of the skirt means
I don’t have to worry about pulling over the hips, although when I tried to
place the pleats in back between the seams the fabric wanted to pull the skirt
into a tight roll rather than fanning out into a train.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS6jbM1l7n49QA71HxYQm97ZnR57Iapguzp0kc7EBwB2sNQ-SanOmDLzpOjOqcOq4wn-PPy9Xp-wWtDQAvoLZnk_yOOB4xTwf5sg5q_AJo_u4GI0OQRU2zNvyt02blCInYV95ud_hoNOY/s1600/39-+1805+Gown.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS6jbM1l7n49QA71HxYQm97ZnR57Iapguzp0kc7EBwB2sNQ-SanOmDLzpOjOqcOq4wn-PPy9Xp-wWtDQAvoLZnk_yOOB4xTwf5sg5q_AJo_u4GI0OQRU2zNvyt02blCInYV95ud_hoNOY/s1600/39-+1805+Gown.JPG" height="400" width="187" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The next gown is based on an 1805 extant (39).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2jeFpBVTbDARFvZg4k3l0pFWokx4Nmpq6vNHIyTGHsCkXSLyQqZOcVWs_jIB4uai1qO365hu2_D8GeAVk5hOIeNmDuzjGeP4q7IYJlQZxuHvHWxeLDpCYTTBStKW4CRmgeQwdkFcrmVc/s1600/40-+1805+Gown+Back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2jeFpBVTbDARFvZg4k3l0pFWokx4Nmpq6vNHIyTGHsCkXSLyQqZOcVWs_jIB4uai1qO365hu2_D8GeAVk5hOIeNmDuzjGeP4q7IYJlQZxuHvHWxeLDpCYTTBStKW4CRmgeQwdkFcrmVc/s1600/40-+1805+Gown+Back.JPG" height="400" width="225" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">In this case, the sleeves fit well and allow
for great movement, no tightness across the back (40).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Comparing to the original they could have
been slightly fuller.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was a slight
gaping under the bust, so I finished the seam with a drawstring.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It only slightly pulls in, so no visible
gathers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The skirt is made up of four
pieces; a front with angled sides, two side pieces with only one angled side,
and a straight back.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My main issue with
the gown is that the front bodice panel should have been wider.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It pulls snug across the bust and the
original seems to be looser to allow the center front to drape down
slightly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I place a gathering cord
center front to pull it down, but it does not want to easily.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcYLW9Ngdy6HjpM9vxx5qh8h2NiY56ZbBslkApJHFW-hi5xUcxKephGw2NK2eaTCOwEVGqXjXLpAD3q2FA7SRj-leyc-1O7bbSvu7ksoW7BdOVaGXdGqPTeQtRMoQG9_Ci-tsH13sMizc/s1600/41-+1812+Gown.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcYLW9Ngdy6HjpM9vxx5qh8h2NiY56ZbBslkApJHFW-hi5xUcxKephGw2NK2eaTCOwEVGqXjXLpAD3q2FA7SRj-leyc-1O7bbSvu7ksoW7BdOVaGXdGqPTeQtRMoQG9_Ci-tsH13sMizc/s1600/41-+1812+Gown.JPG" height="400" width="187" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Third is an 1812 style (41).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3kGK9qL0FkrVhQwP_X_TmuWXeHcQyWS8EBEqKIMbnWhNvpTjwCQBkg9v9dIv1E1Od2tqg4T0FSZJzWCJvu7VPBUWPu1iL07mOs_LBLjUJqvBH9ykeokJFBHsRgYwq2A45srPuMNy7S7Q/s1600/42-+1812+Gown+Back.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3kGK9qL0FkrVhQwP_X_TmuWXeHcQyWS8EBEqKIMbnWhNvpTjwCQBkg9v9dIv1E1Od2tqg4T0FSZJzWCJvu7VPBUWPu1iL07mOs_LBLjUJqvBH9ykeokJFBHsRgYwq2A45srPuMNy7S7Q/s1600/42-+1812+Gown+Back.JPG" height="400" width="198" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">I have no major issues with this one, but having a drawstring across the
front neck and the back, gathered sleeves, wide back, and a snug waistband make
for an easy fit (42).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This skirt was
also made with angled pieces (as you can see from the stripes), but there is
also gathering around all but the very front of the bodice.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEino_Uhj1SRVTfTQliJRGP0v41OcUHnGz3WXlhGrEfmPo2y5GTraUd9VxFVZ1H_dnkG6zjZlKRQPeJeHcn8Wwtxe5n-FMJuNld02dimSyBQtEoThazvWCltpNqPVwHGLP_DVQn3CtRj99s/s1600/43-+1816+Gown.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEino_Uhj1SRVTfTQliJRGP0v41OcUHnGz3WXlhGrEfmPo2y5GTraUd9VxFVZ1H_dnkG6zjZlKRQPeJeHcn8Wwtxe5n-FMJuNld02dimSyBQtEoThazvWCltpNqPVwHGLP_DVQn3CtRj99s/s1600/43-+1816+Gown.jpg" height="400" width="208" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The last is based on a fashion plate from 1816 (43).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am still in the process of building this
one and working out the kinks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
sleeves will be drawn up (as the left one is), but this shows you the overall
length and size of a fuller sleeve.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My
main issues come with the bodice front and undergarments.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I originally draped this bodice to go over a
corset, however, the straps of the gown were set too far out and showed the
corset straps and shift neckline.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
might have to adjust the darts later once I find the right style to hide underneath.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The other issue is that the stripes need to
run vertically, but this can be a problem with crossed necks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had to adjust the waistline of the bodice
down to keep the neck from gaping, but this puts annoying pulls
horizontally.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpxdfy8P0Gz2Ye-r0COFuRvNeznBzbHjoUOJ0Ojhj3pY-Hev-hyAuKI0VYNHig6r2EEiY6r-wi6YRDk13lQfBG9vJXExWESO7qmlKywr7HTEH6RQopeTYKZbY0LEb8GHJUvnmL3KhtdT4/s1600/44-+1816+Gown+Back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpxdfy8P0Gz2Ye-r0COFuRvNeznBzbHjoUOJ0Ojhj3pY-Hev-hyAuKI0VYNHig6r2EEiY6r-wi6YRDk13lQfBG9vJXExWESO7qmlKywr7HTEH6RQopeTYKZbY0LEb8GHJUvnmL3KhtdT4/s1600/44-+1816+Gown+Back.jpg" height="400" width="261" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">The skirt does fit well,
owing to a 2” pleat on either side, just under the arms.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am thinking about making this pleat deeper
to fix the slight pull seen in the back view (44).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, it has yet to be hemmed and I want
to see what happens when the hem is free from the floor.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">When constructing a garment, search through as many sources
as possible.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Look at period artists,
particularly Sir Thomas Lawrence, Louise Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Vladimir Borovikovsky, Gilbert Stuart,
Jacques-Louis David, and Henry Raeburn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Fashion plates can be useful, but they lack detail; particularly of
wrinkles, darts, and seams.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And, as
always, look to other costumers garments for their triumphs and tribulations.</span><o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-89027235452156273822014-05-23T20:47:00.000-04:002014-05-23T20:47:30.895-04:00Shoe Advertisements in the North East Colonies<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The topic has come up on a number of forums lately, so I figured it would do well to post some of the research I've been working on lately. I hope to eventually make it through not only all of the newspaper advertisements for ladies shoes in the 18th c., but runaway ads as well. I'm keeping detailed track of the information about each ad knowing that there might be some connections I didn't expect to find. Eventually I plan on using all of the gathered info to write a thesis or book, depending on how life goes, but there's a lot more to be gathered before I reach a point where it's anything other than simple numbers and a few basic conclusions.<br />
<br />
I've only covered 1775-83 for the moment. It includes newspapers from New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, Connecticut, Rhode Island, and New Hampshire. I have everything separated by newspaper and colony, but I won't get that detailed at this point. I didn't notice any major differences between these states with the exception of preference between Callimanco or Stuff. And that was minor enough it might be a fluke.<br />
<br />
Out of 408 unique descriptions of women's shoes for sale (I didn't count multiples of the same ad run in separate newspapers or dates).<br />
<br />
105 Calimanco/Callimanco/Calamanco/Callimancoe<br />
84 Leather<br />
62 Stuff<br />
55 Silk<br />
34 Morocco<br />
17 Satin<br />
12 Cloth<br />
12 Lastings/Everlasting<br />
11 Russell<br />
5 Sattinett<br />
5 Embroidered<br />
3 Hairbine<br />
2 Velvet<br />
1 Tabby<br />
<br />
I was very interested by just how many slight variations of wool there were. Adding up to a total 210 of the 408 ads (51%). Leather with 84 (21%). Silk based add up to 78 (19%). Morocco with 34 (8%).<br />
<br />
I also noticed part way through (so went back and made note of all) that 82 of the 84 times leather was mentioned it was as "Men's and women's leather shoes", "Men's, women's, & children's leather shoes", or "Women's leather and Callimanco/Stuff/etc. shoes". Only two had women's leather shoes mentioned alone. One a 1778 ad in the Royal Pennsylvania Gazette, the other a 1783 ad for an auction in the New York Gazette.<br />
<br />
Red, Green, Blue, and Black were mentioned for Moroccan leather.<br />
<br />
Green, Black, & Cloth coloured fabrics were mentioned, Black more than any other.<br />
<br />
Pricing was set in 1777 in New York and Massachusetts for women's leather shoes being 6 s. and cloth being 8 s.<br />
<br />
Flowered Nankeen and Sarsenet were the most unusual singular fabric references. Stamped and printed leather appear in 1783.<br />
<br />
French, cross cut, flat, common, English, and Italian were types of heels found. Hopefully I'll find enough information someday to know exactly what those specify.<br />
<br />
Lynn made shoes came up often as well, a very popular "brand" of shoe made in Lynn, Massachusetts. Now that I'm going back further and researching 1764-1774 I'm finding a great story about them I'll have to tell later.<br />
<br />
Year by year it was interesting to watch ads surge in cities that were occupied by the British. Not surprising considering they could suddenly import in large quantities again. Both New York and Boston were notable in this. Of course, everything went up in 1783- 128 of the 408 ads were in that year alone. Adding on to that Silk was the most common type in that year- 27 compared to 26 Callimanco and 21 Leather.<br />
<br />
Like I said, I'd love to pull more conclusions from what I've found, but I need more before I feel safe doing that. I'll keep expanding the years and looking for trends, but it's going to be a long process! I also need to delve into the VA Gazettes more so than I did before. I have a feeling many references aren't picked up in their search by topic feature. Then there's the runaway ads which will give balance to the possibility that these ads aren't aimed at the common person.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuQ9C1bSdi3MZFtFD09phJU0xzSXEAq6lTZ2vWGH_XoeODFmWZ9XcdjMfAuWJks7HUIBXECxwxiVB_Ud7Avqa2gbbdVllsqYsfdhZ6I6CHjj1KRz26Xf6iG3FKuZY-sXD1kFXGm7OLHYY/s1600/cms_snw0101.bro.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuQ9C1bSdi3MZFtFD09phJU0xzSXEAq6lTZ2vWGH_XoeODFmWZ9XcdjMfAuWJks7HUIBXECxwxiVB_Ud7Avqa2gbbdVllsqYsfdhZ6I6CHjj1KRz26Xf6iG3FKuZY-sXD1kFXGm7OLHYY/s1600/cms_snw0101.bro.jpeg" height="171" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Black glazed wool shoes 1775-80, <a href="http://www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk/object/1348800.1">Snowshill Wade Collection</a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmHVU9KM1tGC1UNoE9iNOBfLQXqouH0YBEmo04cexFzOjx54N8sDjKCPqWiMr7_ehecAjPU97muwoMf2eE7YEjFiFcJl7L1f5pIt5IfkGOFILZ0nNy_WroOc9XUXb26Va30AzEfhyphenhyphenXo0o/s1600/29.158.888ab_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmHVU9KM1tGC1UNoE9iNOBfLQXqouH0YBEmo04cexFzOjx54N8sDjKCPqWiMr7_ehecAjPU97muwoMf2eE7YEjFiFcJl7L1f5pIt5IfkGOFILZ0nNy_WroOc9XUXb26Va30AzEfhyphenhyphenXo0o/s1600/29.158.888ab_F.jpg" height="171" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Blue leather shoes 1775-85, <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/101797?rpp=20&pg=6&ft=Shoes&when=A.D.+1600-1800&pos=101">Met Museum</a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifW9yeKJQIyr3HMSQ7QLuDYMimwyYYBkCoYttSTXM4RA7FPSrUctyiWgiL0nstu__naD8DDcJibecuJcMsZV6rdVusDGaxZ6f1bGjko_bug5THxdk7FW6xXQnhyphenhyphenH3Y181FIgF5GixNQP8/s1600/54.61.106a-b_CP2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifW9yeKJQIyr3HMSQ7QLuDYMimwyYYBkCoYttSTXM4RA7FPSrUctyiWgiL0nstu__naD8DDcJibecuJcMsZV6rdVusDGaxZ6f1bGjko_bug5THxdk7FW6xXQnhyphenhyphenH3Y181FIgF5GixNQP8/s1600/54.61.106a-b_CP2.jpg" height="216" width="320" /></a></div>
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Red Morocco leather shoes 1775-85, <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the-collection-online/search/168955?rpp=60&pg=27&ao=on&ft=*&deptids=8&when=A.D.+1600-1800&pos=1575">Met Museum</a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCvtfmk8E_NyZLK6KKi8HiRuDf8-MJsUqikTOVXPLHbSbNTLizFlZRcsPw0vfrNGsRQx36nWBX_1IvH44UQmkZaM9jMQ8DdL3iKxALgIYqPoxTW54N-s-6ysxmSWNRZ_UEUBkvivy-6Vw/s1600/36019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCvtfmk8E_NyZLK6KKi8HiRuDf8-MJsUqikTOVXPLHbSbNTLizFlZRcsPw0vfrNGsRQx36nWBX_1IvH44UQmkZaM9jMQ8DdL3iKxALgIYqPoxTW54N-s-6ysxmSWNRZ_UEUBkvivy-6Vw/s1600/36019.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Figured Silk shoes 1775-85, <a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=1134">Russian Shoe Museum</a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFj_8MN2fC23bBvJMMr0Q3RyWcAuMlxr2A9atkgRkPLh4QSjej_p3Z1Z6UHfpBjFaz8erNNkhO-g2rJylVr7LCOmrZ9EiczgVsv-TvcGGoOsYlIVGsPCUM0ZHn8lySmzpW3njgJX08Rhk/s1600/1964-394,1-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFj_8MN2fC23bBvJMMr0Q3RyWcAuMlxr2A9atkgRkPLh4QSjej_p3Z1Z6UHfpBjFaz8erNNkhO-g2rJylVr7LCOmrZ9EiczgVsv-TvcGGoOsYlIVGsPCUM0ZHn8lySmzpW3njgJX08Rhk/s1600/1964-394,1-2.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
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Black Satin shoes 1775-85, <a href="http://emuseum.history.org/media/view/Objects/19596/173449?t:state:flow=4837d2da-041a-4b5a-b7f8-18173087bde8">CWF</a></div>
</div>
ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-84253832612848850482014-04-29T12:02:00.000-04:002014-04-29T12:02:10.400-04:00Fitting Regency Gowns<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
So, rather than bombard you by constantly talking about how amazing <a href="http://www.yourwardrobeunlockd.com/">Your Wardrobe Unlock'd</a> and <a href="http://foundationsrevealed.com/">Foundations Revealed</a> are and how it would be a travesty to lose their database, I'm going to show you. I've written a number of articles for them including a how-to on 18th century hoops, undergarments of the Regency period, how to solve fitting problems with Regency gowns, and this next month a how-to on making Edwardian bathing boots. I'll be honest, the writers of the articles do get paid ($100), and that does help incline me to write for them. But, the things I write (and others as well) are far above and beyond in time and money compared to regular blog posts. You all know what sorts of things I regular put up, but if you haven't subscribed to those sites, you don't know what articles you're missing out on.<br />
<br />
After six months the writers are allowed to post their articles publicly. It may seem surprising that the articles aren't all over the internet for free then. At least when it comes to my decision not to release them later, it's specifically to support the site. And even if the articles were out there, it'd take an awful lot of searching to find them all! But, this one time, I'm going against that plan specifically to support the site. They lost a lot of subscribers recently due to a change in payment systems and are set to shut down if they don't get them back. So, in hopes that you'll agree that having a site full of hundreds of articles like this is worth the <a href="https://www.harmanhay.com/amember/signup/8FP13kVFE">$19.97 a month for access to BOTH sites</a> (half that if you're a student, senior, or registered disabled) I'm putting up the first half of one of my most in-depth and popular articles. I'll post the second half later, but it's too long to do in one post- if you want to read it all now you know what to do!<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
The most difficult part of any garment construction is
perfecting the fit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even in Regency
period gowns, with their simple and geometric shapes pulled in by drawstrings,
there are many issues that commonly appear.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Women have lost the understructure of the Georgian period, which allowed
for a flat cone to smooth the fabric over, instead dealing with complex
curves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While there is, of course, a
wide variety of styles and body shapes that affect this fit, we’ll try to
address some of the common issues.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
First, we take a look at portraits of the period.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some artists are kind enough to put in a
great deal of detail when it comes to wrinkles, folds, and seams.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Occasionally, we find what we might even term
“mistakes” with fitting.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ1eR3jLBqgUZKj-eqtDKaEENOQL-spS59xOmGNnQDUgqkKvdJ2fGqbFoa2aN1IeP-u3Wd71xZVoqfTc4uU1g1Ncv5XWRaMNVdL_udbQG_iAGdrY_o0jHqfhl7iawe1HGmNDxVNiYYyrc/s1600/1-+Martha+Arbeneva+by+Vladimir+Borovikovsky.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ1eR3jLBqgUZKj-eqtDKaEENOQL-spS59xOmGNnQDUgqkKvdJ2fGqbFoa2aN1IeP-u3Wd71xZVoqfTc4uU1g1Ncv5XWRaMNVdL_udbQG_iAGdrY_o0jHqfhl7iawe1HGmNDxVNiYYyrc/s1600/1-+Martha+Arbeneva+by+Vladimir+Borovikovsky.jpg" height="320" width="247" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The portrait of Martha Arbeneva is a good example of a turn
of the century style gown, circa 1798 (1).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Particularly note how the neckline crosses, how the gathers fall, and
where the shoulder seam is placed.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWBBOngJ931EBEg7nKhFOct4ywdYfux2jJkpU6_PI8OSaGC_CjFScOOUhu6fYT0HX7eG0kyQ-PjccPTCDx8UbrcGLQwsfDxLdSRbDoqfuWk9a4fbGvkLEfEiYeSqmbse_U3UmvRYF1lQA/s1600/2-+Laure+Regnault+de+Saint-Jean+d%2527Ange%25CC%2581ly+by+Franc%25CC%25A7ois+Ge%25CC%2581rard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWBBOngJ931EBEg7nKhFOct4ywdYfux2jJkpU6_PI8OSaGC_CjFScOOUhu6fYT0HX7eG0kyQ-PjccPTCDx8UbrcGLQwsfDxLdSRbDoqfuWk9a4fbGvkLEfEiYeSqmbse_U3UmvRYF1lQA/s1600/2-+Laure+Regnault+de+Saint-Jean+d%2527Ange%25CC%2581ly+by+Franc%25CC%25A7ois+Ge%25CC%2581rard.jpg" height="320" width="227" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Comtesse Regnault is also from the turn of the century,
1799, but is wearing quite a different style (2).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The neckline shape is important in this
portrait, especially showing where the gathers and fullness are.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHlObKPsLfYb5hS-DPp_sO5NMyAlOF1dJPoMtLy84zf8ro2D5pOxLDKp8IRsz-HZkTAJhno3agU9FaqG9wi1F5E-mqreWBNOoG7h_IVvZ0M_aDcqoKDUYcKsrPDx6Ym4w32q7PXlYOWo0/s1600/3-+Charlotte+Ulrike+von+Rosenkrantz+by+Friedrich+Gro%25CC%2588ger.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHlObKPsLfYb5hS-DPp_sO5NMyAlOF1dJPoMtLy84zf8ro2D5pOxLDKp8IRsz-HZkTAJhno3agU9FaqG9wi1F5E-mqreWBNOoG7h_IVvZ0M_aDcqoKDUYcKsrPDx6Ym4w32q7PXlYOWo0/s1600/3-+Charlotte+Ulrike+von+Rosenkrantz+by+Friedrich+Gro%25CC%2588ger.jpg" height="320" width="236" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Charlotte Ulrike Rosencrantz brings us up to 1805 (3).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Her bodice is much more smoothly fitted, with
only a slight gathering in the center front.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Her gown skirt has slight pulling towards the back, but there appears to
be a seam or a small pleat on the very side to help keep this from being too
severe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You can also see how her long
sleeves are not fitted too snug.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhITFrQokl72kCE7XvBPhWwUH-XBs7rFRyZIE8t5RqgrzKPvIAszYGAatvGo8kAwRsCVTF06ldazyc6MSIDgH_yX8K0YClx88-_35ufU2zNm-LkHDf4F_favX5CyHZzPrL0rnFz9dqYF1U/s1600/4-+Mrs+Harrison+Gray+Otis+by+Gilbert+Stuart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhITFrQokl72kCE7XvBPhWwUH-XBs7rFRyZIE8t5RqgrzKPvIAszYGAatvGo8kAwRsCVTF06ldazyc6MSIDgH_yX8K0YClx88-_35ufU2zNm-LkHDf4F_favX5CyHZzPrL0rnFz9dqYF1U/s1600/4-+Mrs+Harrison+Gray+Otis+by+Gilbert+Stuart.jpg" height="320" width="260" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Mrs. Harrison Gray Otis, 1809, has a more narrow point to
her rounded neckline (4).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Notice how the
sheer gathers are not pulled tight to the bust, but almost droop.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUKbvtdqSpT8y6fvnwgP0M4hcu84uQ0fGbFfL6zAD0vtP2T9orsO7YesemGeeYhlBmy_TFGesPItCnmDkLKp_f2znJQLMZExL55ITqA0hJct-tDdwNx5Qcw5MaK8qYnEB01wEbaqF7Xm0/s1600/5-+Caroline+Murat+by+Franc%25CC%25A7ois+Ge%25CC%2581rard.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUKbvtdqSpT8y6fvnwgP0M4hcu84uQ0fGbFfL6zAD0vtP2T9orsO7YesemGeeYhlBmy_TFGesPItCnmDkLKp_f2znJQLMZExL55ITqA0hJct-tDdwNx5Qcw5MaK8qYnEB01wEbaqF7Xm0/s1600/5-+Caroline+Murat+by+Franc%25CC%25A7ois+Ge%25CC%2581rard.jpg" height="320" width="265" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Caroline Murat is a fine example of how a heavier fabric
gown (in this case I would say a satin) should fit, circa 1812 (5).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Her gown is also to the edge of her shoulder,
necessitating a perfect fit to keep them from falling off.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn91PCfjrEL9B13ErNabnn46gSdjj88WHGBcTDttN0QkdMu8MZyTKlgQVDwofk3cXy6yM4B6L7Il0hrBo7d-QSsaZ3V8HFOYG7FbTIjL4NByT6L0_s8z6dghuWtO03hcqwYNC1BcW4gl8/s1600/6-+Madame+de+Stae%25CC%2588l+by+Vladimir+Borovikovsky.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn91PCfjrEL9B13ErNabnn46gSdjj88WHGBcTDttN0QkdMu8MZyTKlgQVDwofk3cXy6yM4B6L7Il0hrBo7d-QSsaZ3V8HFOYG7FbTIjL4NByT6L0_s8z6dghuWtO03hcqwYNC1BcW4gl8/s1600/6-+Madame+de+Stae%25CC%2588l+by+Vladimir+Borovikovsky.jpg" height="320" width="246" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The portrait of Madame de Staël, also 1812, appears to show
a gown without a waist seam, using a belt to hold it in (6). <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The gathering in around the neckline also
continues all the way over the shoulder.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHvdEpNfTN2_lB_YeaNK9rHsSC6GxJP7LnheTy3K8x2cuz_nY0F7luXviM7AFiyrOVe8uZvSIbpta6EzLXSr3WjyX9aulOVmeyBg9lEC4hZBDRaWV3VgOs2YZmIDdsvFQrs00JqP7gBeU/s1600/7-+Marguerite-Charlotte+David+by+Jacques-Louis+David.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHvdEpNfTN2_lB_YeaNK9rHsSC6GxJP7LnheTy3K8x2cuz_nY0F7luXviM7AFiyrOVe8uZvSIbpta6EzLXSr3WjyX9aulOVmeyBg9lEC4hZBDRaWV3VgOs2YZmIDdsvFQrs00JqP7gBeU/s1600/7-+Marguerite-Charlotte+David+by+Jacques-Louis+David.jpg" height="320" width="266" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Marguerite-Charlotte David, 1813, has a very simple straight
front (7).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The top appears to have a
drawstring, which pulls the neckline in just enough to prevent gaping.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The bodice is not heavily gathered, but is
not tightly fitted either.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There do not
appear to be shoulder straps either, despite the fact that her neckline looks
decidedly narrower than Caroline Murat’s.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTTN7tpPKubJbiklwlDXx4zxRyYvfNhagNMoCGq3jxEQCSofdDUkHRtwT6NeRwDoM75jA9-DUdFuRCF4R28-WjorzTqMt5wfl-Nc_Zr4uPsp-JNa1im-buulJWtPUFwYMc_h7kuq1dCQ/s1600/10-Anna+Maria+Magnan+by+Christoffer+Eckersberg.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTTN7tpPKubJbiklwlDXx4zxRyYvfNhagNMoCGq3jxEQCSofdDUkHRtwT6NeRwDoM75jA9-DUdFuRCF4R28-WjorzTqMt5wfl-Nc_Zr4uPsp-JNa1im-buulJWtPUFwYMc_h7kuq1dCQ/s1600/10-Anna+Maria+Magnan+by+Christoffer+Eckersberg.jpeg" height="320" width="209" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Anna-Maria Magnan’s portrait, 1814, is a wonderful example
of a flat-fit, covering bodice (8).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
stripes indicate that there is no gathering or darting under the bust to fit
the curves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Instead, we see a slightly
puckering under the arm, similar to where darts might be place on modern
garments.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgOL9hF1bXgyraF3tRByKnKvYSaXYfj9Rpkk3Vz3Ji4Vm2-yHlJ9OwAyZeKBk9sUrdNYI12xdSXAkJH86_2T12GIwwzwuT4as7V232htXIpHmNXpHf8ThjRNnuTueBznsGqYBI5q4YWic/s1600/8-+Junge+Dame+mit+Zeichengrat+by+Carl+Vogelstein.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgOL9hF1bXgyraF3tRByKnKvYSaXYfj9Rpkk3Vz3Ji4Vm2-yHlJ9OwAyZeKBk9sUrdNYI12xdSXAkJH86_2T12GIwwzwuT4as7V232htXIpHmNXpHf8ThjRNnuTueBznsGqYBI5q4YWic/s1600/8-+Junge+Dame+mit+Zeichengrat+by+Carl+Vogelstein.jpg" height="320" width="216" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Vogelstein’s Junge Dame, from 1816, gives us a rare glimpse
of the back of her gown (9).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This side
view shows how the tilt of the waistline raises towards the back.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqzo1wInZ6cEVf77eOd8qTJQ7YelmZ0r7T1K5-gkoYY_UxSeE4K_0-hdZ4xQtM-GWpR3B6cYXm7EYge13NznXsyG-dnEXvVH8mVWUCq8S5vzSPRzu9pyqlSU9zjKRYChjtFaQKx_-4peg/s1600/9-+Portrait+of+a+Lady+by+Louis-Le%25CC%2581opold+Boilly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqzo1wInZ6cEVf77eOd8qTJQ7YelmZ0r7T1K5-gkoYY_UxSeE4K_0-hdZ4xQtM-GWpR3B6cYXm7EYge13NznXsyG-dnEXvVH8mVWUCq8S5vzSPRzu9pyqlSU9zjKRYChjtFaQKx_-4peg/s1600/9-+Portrait+of+a+Lady+by+Louis-Le%25CC%2581opold+Boilly.jpg" height="320" width="245" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Boilly’s Portrait of a Lady is from 1820, but shows a
similar gathered front to many of our earlier portraits (10).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Although, her shoulders are set much wider,
the neckline is where the armscye sat a few years before.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Next, there are the fitting issues that commonly arise.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fit can be affected by a number of things
including fabric, undergarments, construction techniques, and the shape/pattern
used.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For this article, we’ll focus on
the shapes and patterns.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Even if working from a general pattern, always make a
mock-up first.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Keep in mind that your
mock-up fabric may differ in weight or stretch (i.e. if using muslin, but
making a silk gown, know the silk won’t give as much).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Bodice issues:<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Gaping neckline or
Wrinkles under the arm</b>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>Everyone has
a different shape of shoulder, our two models are perfect examples of
that.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Karen has sloped shoulders and is
more likely to have problems with wrinkles under the arm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Gwendolyn has square shoulders and is more
likely to deal with gaping of the neckline.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>This doesn’t mean the problem is exclusive to either, however.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgASoTgvGWcwDLAkS9DQOAuw0EJtq4gPapIA9Bi4kWdbXJ_NmE7KO0sKrZY0B5sOTo_sTuT2My1uavR8VoqDUj9NIurwUCro9laL5FUhjQvwRYx_VOqQNX5NJvOUg1mXa-GXviFR_6krHQ/s1600/11-+Gaping+neckline+on+Karen.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgASoTgvGWcwDLAkS9DQOAuw0EJtq4gPapIA9Bi4kWdbXJ_NmE7KO0sKrZY0B5sOTo_sTuT2My1uavR8VoqDUj9NIurwUCro9laL5FUhjQvwRYx_VOqQNX5NJvOUg1mXa-GXviFR_6krHQ/s1600/11-+Gaping+neckline+on+Karen.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In image 11 we can see how much gaping there is on the
neckline of Karen’s bodice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This has
nothing to do with her shoulders.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsLVzAP6bg-dVZjDt0tUh7TdNomooY5z_6di2yCb5bqV1YUjEWx9yCiHwqd43yPhnLvAl3KqVpXwdju-dbMugu032IoLDS_H3ArXbm7NX966BAE5iF0Qynu5DdRCX7-y74MYM6xzuNCOM/s1600/12-+Gaping+neckline+on+Karen%252C+pulled+down.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsLVzAP6bg-dVZjDt0tUh7TdNomooY5z_6di2yCb5bqV1YUjEWx9yCiHwqd43yPhnLvAl3KqVpXwdju-dbMugu032IoLDS_H3ArXbm7NX966BAE5iF0Qynu5DdRCX7-y74MYM6xzuNCOM/s1600/12-+Gaping+neckline+on+Karen%252C+pulled+down.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We can
attempt to fix it by pulling the excess into the waistline (12), but the
gathers are not flattering, and the neckline is still loose.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVFRffZUofBVfLt_dOJXedGjrBBV8deG2v_yRr7lGAXYAMzk1vHAa_waBcW23ZSErMCt1FfxBfwSxJn1OISuAObVV6glHJoGx2aiKA5Wk5pX8wp3u0iBGapQl-FVNo57dCxr_A-ZPd5Kg/s1600/13-+Gaping+neckline%252C+Karen%2527s+fixed+bodice.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVFRffZUofBVfLt_dOJXedGjrBBV8deG2v_yRr7lGAXYAMzk1vHAa_waBcW23ZSErMCt1FfxBfwSxJn1OISuAObVV6glHJoGx2aiKA5Wk5pX8wp3u0iBGapQl-FVNo57dCxr_A-ZPd5Kg/s1600/13-+Gaping+neckline%252C+Karen%2527s+fixed+bodice.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Image 13 shows how the bodice should fit,
close to the bust along the front, with gathers that continue over the bust
line, like the portrait of Martha Arbeneva above.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Or02r9O7em64Yvq5xr6yBH97CRpp5SUm7P37Db4y63bmhEuSrAm_QEpHHZYUdKhSft8UuCxCL7wI3xpujsSJk1nZrFg2wpcF1eBezOdi_bH3wfdqX2yK89G67OKxL_iz4HPCxtWwVFg/s1600/14-+Gaping+neckline%252C+Karen%2527s+bodice+shapes.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8Or02r9O7em64Yvq5xr6yBH97CRpp5SUm7P37Db4y63bmhEuSrAm_QEpHHZYUdKhSft8UuCxCL7wI3xpujsSJk1nZrFg2wpcF1eBezOdi_bH3wfdqX2yK89G67OKxL_iz4HPCxtWwVFg/s1600/14-+Gaping+neckline%252C+Karen%2527s+bodice+shapes.JPG" height="226" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The difference is the grain line (14).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The gaping bodice is cut with the straight of
grain parallel to the center front line of the body, while the fitting bodice
is cut with the neckline on grain.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRKoaepBjTDh8ZEhsEpvXPRLYw6OObZyOooe14W81DVUky4pBPym1nXo6onF4gMUonN9IeICsmp18Yqm2Grdo_lchS6Jxp86-KPH6czlG-ckFtXnjKzMWMo86QTRPYuSoro86k7nWKZD8/s1600/15-+Armscye+wrinkles+on+Karen.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRKoaepBjTDh8ZEhsEpvXPRLYw6OObZyOooe14W81DVUky4pBPym1nXo6onF4gMUonN9IeICsmp18Yqm2Grdo_lchS6Jxp86-KPH6czlG-ckFtXnjKzMWMo86QTRPYuSoro86k7nWKZD8/s1600/15-+Armscye+wrinkles+on+Karen.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Image 15 shows a simple bodice on Karen with wrinkles under
the arm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We saw in the portrait of Anna
Maria Magnan that this is sometimes acceptable, particularly because her bodice
covers up to the neckline and has no fitting under the bust.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, it can easily be fixed in a bodice
style that uses gathers or darts under the bust or has a shoulder strap.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEYZHe40-xnbC1xSusygo2C9m6kRAvbnzcHFrQLsQfw_QEtKVSM9y9mbyUtqRekJwk59O7uX8XTv2ZHlxnrqSKBgIVKyQrX5zblYSjgyUVF-qVEVey8cnimr_BLq7MAVVbBg-HG75zD2U/s1600/16-+Armscye+wrinkles+fixed+with+strap.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEYZHe40-xnbC1xSusygo2C9m6kRAvbnzcHFrQLsQfw_QEtKVSM9y9mbyUtqRekJwk59O7uX8XTv2ZHlxnrqSKBgIVKyQrX5zblYSjgyUVF-qVEVey8cnimr_BLq7MAVVbBg-HG75zD2U/s1600/16-+Armscye+wrinkles+fixed+with+strap.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In Karen’s case, the shoulder strap can be
very simply adjusted to remove the excess fabric (16).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQqAAs2VLLdF_NLnoA_rgIMCvhMVabAoe699L7uf5GBE3RvrDUhQXfATPszw2M_ehezEGRynb-DscpndglZ-utTCjo9jkKNtipcleO2Ij_-j0k7QU1eMbw5YQEoCcYS-JgLCw7P2C0C6E/s1600/17-+Armscye+wrinkles%252C+Karen%2527s+bodice+shapes.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQqAAs2VLLdF_NLnoA_rgIMCvhMVabAoe699L7uf5GBE3RvrDUhQXfATPszw2M_ehezEGRynb-DscpndglZ-utTCjo9jkKNtipcleO2Ij_-j0k7QU1eMbw5YQEoCcYS-JgLCw7P2C0C6E/s1600/17-+Armscye+wrinkles%252C+Karen%2527s+bodice+shapes.JPG" height="161" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Karen has sloped shoulders, so curving the
shoulder outward will fix the problem (17).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcpNJFDTCYw-NF_-lPhLykTfzlrrjv4WApZmgSQh3kZCIHc89J9xja6W9qp2ITrdVNL9618yxkk228jqumPAVIt2onXsOJow-aTmrj_Dfonpcol_WpO1lEm6PvAXRHFEsNnNj4RS1zYzk/s1600/18-Armscye+wrinkles+on+Gwendolyn.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcpNJFDTCYw-NF_-lPhLykTfzlrrjv4WApZmgSQh3kZCIHc89J9xja6W9qp2ITrdVNL9618yxkk228jqumPAVIt2onXsOJow-aTmrj_Dfonpcol_WpO1lEm6PvAXRHFEsNnNj4RS1zYzk/s1600/18-Armscye+wrinkles+on+Gwendolyn.JPG" height="320" width="215" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Gwendolyn can have similar issues as well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With a bodice shape such as Anna Maria
Magnan’s, there is an option of keeping the wrinkle under the arm or using a
dart or gathering to take out the fullness (18 & 19).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGgdYrY1og91r8lWqV_AakbtmyogNvMHbndUoKCDnapSPySDdfKnA5gFBT_cfWxfLsECdlOFu219N7GtGImek7gO9Fjc0nLxG1KrLxKCgD70z2S1Nyw-RGqSkV7lszKp_PaFDTfIhTnb0/s1600/19-+Armscye+wrinkles%252C+Gwendolyn%2527s+bodice+shapes.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGgdYrY1og91r8lWqV_AakbtmyogNvMHbndUoKCDnapSPySDdfKnA5gFBT_cfWxfLsECdlOFu219N7GtGImek7gO9Fjc0nLxG1KrLxKCgD70z2S1Nyw-RGqSkV7lszKp_PaFDTfIhTnb0/s1600/19-+Armscye+wrinkles%252C+Gwendolyn%2527s+bodice+shapes.JPG" height="193" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ_Rpyyb9N5ZL9E8Hnbwg_8A4s-sMbX023TxN40cxah2c_Jumam7RO-AxdUOsFjPwjCXKrU-2emnUSfqR5cqYMOndZ-k9anpKPmpKvuBycvCq-zJVUIoCdx_O5Oxe8zHoF5WVWcNUSXEs/s1600/20-+Gaping+neckline+on+Gwendolyn.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ_Rpyyb9N5ZL9E8Hnbwg_8A4s-sMbX023TxN40cxah2c_Jumam7RO-AxdUOsFjPwjCXKrU-2emnUSfqR5cqYMOndZ-k9anpKPmpKvuBycvCq-zJVUIoCdx_O5Oxe8zHoF5WVWcNUSXEs/s1600/20-+Gaping+neckline+on+Gwendolyn.JPG" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A common problem in open neck bodices is gaping around the
neckline.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is often caused by the
shape and angle of the shoulder strap.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Gwendolyn’s square shoulders need a very straight strap, unlike Karen
who had wrinkles under the arm with that shape of strap.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In image 20, the neckline is not an uneven
shape, her right side is gaping out almost an inch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghU7xIV0xn-PredXHtWgiGEgNDpIIzpDuFdVVa-hbDRft8KG9pkCke22FujKYhPGURzP15Yhv2CfZFsHZSnGMo96xBxfp1OxR3nWJ-NUZppp1a6rbSqXzpmFAv-e6bqAzWFR_39nH7IoI/s1600/21-+Gaping+neckline%252C+Gwendolyn%2527s+shapes.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghU7xIV0xn-PredXHtWgiGEgNDpIIzpDuFdVVa-hbDRft8KG9pkCke22FujKYhPGURzP15Yhv2CfZFsHZSnGMo96xBxfp1OxR3nWJ-NUZppp1a6rbSqXzpmFAv-e6bqAzWFR_39nH7IoI/s1600/21-+Gaping+neckline%252C+Gwendolyn%2527s+shapes.JPG" height="182" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
You can see the minor difference in the
pattern which affects this (21).<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<h1 style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><br />Darts/Gathers in wrong place<br /><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Darts, if the wrong size or shape can give the illusion of a very strangely shaped bust. Too short, and the bodice will look saggy. Too long, and the bust will be flattened. Too much fabric taken in and you’ll have the 1950s cone shape. Not enough and the underbust will be loose or the bustline will be too small. Simply, do these on the body, an easy adjustment to a mock-up even without a fitting partner.</span></span></span></h1>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeuzCXoliBW5nnUmyqUHYE-5iWvWfSP6RKRIV3OuwOnZ5JeZVCpChNOx1f2_yummAoN41d4M-SHe3H_2fW4WCeq1I0JbVOWHJlUKx3n76_cc-ZHt1vDeiH6wKMVDFNUV-MQYMjI_2JPdM/s1600/22-+Gathers+on+Karen.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeuzCXoliBW5nnUmyqUHYE-5iWvWfSP6RKRIV3OuwOnZ5JeZVCpChNOx1f2_yummAoN41d4M-SHe3H_2fW4WCeq1I0JbVOWHJlUKx3n76_cc-ZHt1vDeiH6wKMVDFNUV-MQYMjI_2JPdM/s1600/22-+Gathers+on+Karen.JPG" height="303" width="320" /></a></div>
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Gathers are very easy to adjust back and forth as well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If they are to provide fullness to curve over
the bust, make sure to spread them out properly (22).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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If placed too close to center it becomes too
snug around the outside bust, even beginning to make horizontal wrinkles across
it (23).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And it also seemed to have more
of a tendency to gap.<o:p></o:p></div>
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To come: gathered neckline pulling, wrong waistline angle or gaping under bust, sleeve issues of shallow top, narrow top, restricted movement, and skirt issues of pulling across the front. I then break down the gowns I've made and how they do and don't fit right.</div>
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ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-60853246610203633552014-04-25T17:12:00.003-04:002014-04-25T17:13:22.053-04:00Lemon Sack<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The last few weeks have been a whirlwind of projects with due-dates, not all for me. That's settled down finally and I'm getting some work done on a huge project I'll be posting about sometime in the next month or so. In the mean time, I've made quite a few things this year I haven't posted about yet (and even a few last year... oops). First up is my first Sack gown. You heard me, I've never made the infamous Robe á la Française before. This was one of the best challenges I've had in a while. I've made similar garments such as a <a href="http://mantuadiary.blogspot.com/2011/01/brunswick-jacket.html">Brunswick</a>, but the fitting still required a lot of change. All of which I fitted to myself, and had no reason to, so that was stupid and difficult. Also, with a deadline for the Millinery conference earlier this year.</div>
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Moving on, you may find this gown a little familiar. It's actually recycled from one of the <a href="http://mantuadiary.blogspot.com/2008/07/constructed-pieces-2.html">first 18th century style gowns</a> I've ever made. I had almost four yards left over after construction. That got used for the two back panels and bodice, the skirts of the previous gown for the front skirts. The petticoat required some piecing in back to get the right height. Fortunately I had used a large hem, so I managed to get some extra length out of that. I still have the sad, machine stitched bodice of the old gown in a basket. Just can't get rid of it yet. That's also pretty much all that's left of the fabric after trimming!</div>
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I used a combination of my old gown shapes along with the pattern for the 1770s gown in Patterns of Fashion. This type of striped silk seemed to be very popular for sack gowns in the 1770s, even more so in yellow. I ended up using <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/86895?img=0">this gown</a> at the Met museum as trim inspiration. Underneath for support I have a pair of side hoops. Yet another thing I need to remake- I wrote an article about that topic for <a href="http://www.yourwardrobeunlockd.com/">YWU</a> and need to do a correct pair now! I do have a larger hoop, but I needed to fit in the car.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_Jrm6oQyYGopnXA-Z67Y6VO4iTjuxUPrMw1VChatmyT3WXixU8X8SiN3xDodlRh6J5o8uAfiL5UUGIQfj8nGxkMUh37Nj3riFcRtgrKvJGm0QiXdZXlyF3arj4EpZvcPR1WJUMIxbO6M/s1600/2014-03-16+Side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_Jrm6oQyYGopnXA-Z67Y6VO4iTjuxUPrMw1VChatmyT3WXixU8X8SiN3xDodlRh6J5o8uAfiL5UUGIQfj8nGxkMUh37Nj3riFcRtgrKvJGm0QiXdZXlyF3arj4EpZvcPR1WJUMIxbO6M/s1600/2014-03-16+Side.jpg" height="400" width="195" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-RQxmkAi0qChMegNfeB1oz9O06OMOaWyBPMDKc6XvDhN13OEYykh1tnByQEYcNhxaxX1MO602gGd2rVX88l1V6-qRhJNcdyP_vQXfhsfLU0UOT923LbqcQTuW82hNuISxeu_qK0ztK34/s1600/2014-03-16+Back2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-RQxmkAi0qChMegNfeB1oz9O06OMOaWyBPMDKc6XvDhN13OEYykh1tnByQEYcNhxaxX1MO602gGd2rVX88l1V6-qRhJNcdyP_vQXfhsfLU0UOT923LbqcQTuW82hNuISxeu_qK0ztK34/s1600/2014-03-16+Back2.jpg" height="400" width="220" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAGKFAtHaTLykYXdW-66Cm707dP2bH9jq5kvyYqtjodHh-jTJqqAyFKr9MkebMPuSFm3hXkk7iIt7COk0DOc5EozSiaYawWe3RDdEfqGnXXf2Q-HI-0K3C_xuIbySwVe-WR1qOLgtBxCQ/s1600/2014-03-16+Back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAGKFAtHaTLykYXdW-66Cm707dP2bH9jq5kvyYqtjodHh-jTJqqAyFKr9MkebMPuSFm3hXkk7iIt7COk0DOc5EozSiaYawWe3RDdEfqGnXXf2Q-HI-0K3C_xuIbySwVe-WR1qOLgtBxCQ/s1600/2014-03-16+Back.jpg" height="400" width="196" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXDdHwl_K6yjeCZz_0vwNvUNeyVGvyqBQMNX_tlHeufOWlb3LNameBakyqvHsZhPqVvX32P5pOa_nq4c05pREacD09ag3x-oxdrVWrC9wobJlkJQ_tXh_t1mtXU6i_8Gk58uAnwzUp3qY/s1600/2014-04-25+17.07.58.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXDdHwl_K6yjeCZz_0vwNvUNeyVGvyqBQMNX_tlHeufOWlb3LNameBakyqvHsZhPqVvX32P5pOa_nq4c05pREacD09ag3x-oxdrVWrC9wobJlkJQ_tXh_t1mtXU6i_8Gk58uAnwzUp3qY/s1600/2014-04-25+17.07.58.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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I originally planned on doing ties or lacing across, but didn't like how that worked without the cut out in the lining. So, I stitched the seam up and can't gain anymore weight.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR84ZdFrtbsG98RqxEIFtN-wV5TersgYdSeGmDOhwLeJJgeZNf6Q43XyxQRSyRSi_P7P3XGoNzzZzhxSJL3Wk9yfhafXyt4ShxQ7bLR8lQlBCmpNVQRclLbX-wIJzPXhtt1y2_o9niPGQ/s1600/2014-04-25+17.08.31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR84ZdFrtbsG98RqxEIFtN-wV5TersgYdSeGmDOhwLeJJgeZNf6Q43XyxQRSyRSi_P7P3XGoNzzZzhxSJL3Wk9yfhafXyt4ShxQ7bLR8lQlBCmpNVQRclLbX-wIJzPXhtt1y2_o9niPGQ/s1600/2014-04-25+17.08.31.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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The stomacher is the only part that has "interfacing", in this case buckram. Buttonholes really require some sort of reinforcement.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDWQiEPQhY0YfJeayxA2rbOnq-k-LQNqii5gn9jB1gbQYyNJYa0fo6eu_yuSIc5bp5NQlV7u6LxS0evQbEhx9Umy8GyXUVj6O_hFcd3aEkcJqJ-rpaDfuEiexsBGyL9sC4yc7P1bSlppM/s1600/2014-04-25+17.08.59.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDWQiEPQhY0YfJeayxA2rbOnq-k-LQNqii5gn9jB1gbQYyNJYa0fo6eu_yuSIc5bp5NQlV7u6LxS0evQbEhx9Umy8GyXUVj6O_hFcd3aEkcJqJ-rpaDfuEiexsBGyL9sC4yc7P1bSlppM/s1600/2014-04-25+17.08.59.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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I spent literally days looking for lace for sleeve and neck ruffles. I just couldn't find what I wanted. So, I grabbed some cotton from the stash and did a scalloped buttonhole stitch in silk around the edges. I'd like to make nicer ones at some point, but I don't think I'll be crazy enough to embroider them myself after that.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg-T6M5bGUePBt-v8n_OZd3PH4Le99x8Tviye2txB-ZgaqhLs6JYDLAjx57hoVqQoPLvqCj1CcBgaGyTspeZFDT-MvzYvSwgrccdyasKEZ-MwWWEPHERVawqjdKyubhhU2r7RybU40Mas/s1600/2014-04-25+17.09.26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg-T6M5bGUePBt-v8n_OZd3PH4Le99x8Tviye2txB-ZgaqhLs6JYDLAjx57hoVqQoPLvqCj1CcBgaGyTspeZFDT-MvzYvSwgrccdyasKEZ-MwWWEPHERVawqjdKyubhhU2r7RybU40Mas/s1600/2014-04-25+17.09.26.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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All of the edges of the trim were pinked. The gathering was done by folding along the line and whipping over it from the inside. It gives a nice fullness. For the puffs I actually inserted stuffing!</div>
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You can't have a grand gown without the hair. I seriously wish I had Kendra's book, though. I had about shoulder length hair at this point in time (mostly chopped off now). So, I needed some extra pieces.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQw5cPRZGkg05W73XChsL5XIGOB7id8IMAZGRfbnFSb6l_HCcptF6nFd7CvAXnIsyLLtw45Nb0PLehCnj3stXxZ5yx1AOgB6fCdcLNZx7I-DtaldB4rYJEa4xRKWPPyzy1ye4tvBVbWEw/s1600/2014-03-16+Hair3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQw5cPRZGkg05W73XChsL5XIGOB7id8IMAZGRfbnFSb6l_HCcptF6nFd7CvAXnIsyLLtw45Nb0PLehCnj3stXxZ5yx1AOgB6fCdcLNZx7I-DtaldB4rYJEa4xRKWPPyzy1ye4tvBVbWEw/s1600/2014-03-16+Hair3.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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The front has a rat- just a cutoff leg from pantyhose similar to my hair color filled with stuffing.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhluDbX620Ugbb62xA6T9QtDwc8nTXin_VPVyJPsc2J2x2N6TaV00DZWRXiWTZ50uNOFME36yVrka08B4xDClVLmJ3tsjTNaZcynA2Ae1vXxOzu7_4CYJczgffRmAQ2_W9Vaqklf3vyznE/s1600/2014-03-16+Hair2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhluDbX620Ugbb62xA6T9QtDwc8nTXin_VPVyJPsc2J2x2N6TaV00DZWRXiWTZ50uNOFME36yVrka08B4xDClVLmJ3tsjTNaZcynA2Ae1vXxOzu7_4CYJczgffRmAQ2_W9Vaqklf3vyznE/s1600/2014-03-16+Hair2.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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The back literally has three pieces made from one very large weft. I had to dye the hair slightly to get it more "golden" since when I bought it I was platinum. You can see how I curled a little of my own hair to finish off the top edge.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUatCI5in9dbcKw6BLosG6Wm_ayQ_j5JE4mj6RbTOqpYD3crLd3osZwwDc5bnOlOHVwqHZw9LTZPvRN6gVj0bMQPqxV92PBFJWSUqK8rklC9wWFpclEca3K0A6m9GVZQPVIiYJnbwqX-A/s1600/2014-03-16+Hair1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUatCI5in9dbcKw6BLosG6Wm_ayQ_j5JE4mj6RbTOqpYD3crLd3osZwwDc5bnOlOHVwqHZw9LTZPvRN6gVj0bMQPqxV92PBFJWSUqK8rklC9wWFpclEca3K0A6m9GVZQPVIiYJnbwqX-A/s1600/2014-03-16+Hair1.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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I had no clue what to do with the back and even less time, so the quick loop was the best option! I finished it off with hair powder from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/LitttleBits">Little Bits</a> (grey) and some paper flowers.</div>
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ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-41655835465108623672014-03-05T11:54:00.000-05:002014-03-05T11:54:28.300-05:00Studying Extants<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Most museums follow a pretty standard set of protocol when working with their collections. You wear gloves, handle as little as possible, use a pencil instead of a pen, etc. In reference to gloves I recommend reading <a href="http://thestillroomblog.com/2013/02/25/museum-monday-get-rid-of-those-white-cotton-gloves-time-for-nitrile/">this article</a>. Many museums are moving from cotton to nitrile and it doesn't hurt to be ahead of the curve (or bring both) when visiting a collection. The most extreme situation I've dealt with so far was no touching of the item (the curator could move it occasionally for me), the interior stuffing could not be removed, and no mechanical pencils or erasers. That last part does make sense since those broken off bits can infest a clean area pretty easily. So, I bring art pencils, and lots of them. No temptation to erase that way! On the other hand I've handled things with bare (clean) hands and even used pen to trace something out on top of the object once when pencil didn't work. The horror! Either way, you need to keep that basic standard in your mind and make sure to ask in great detail what each museums policy is. Or, private collector, as is the case with what I'm showing you.</div>
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My kit now includes both types of gloves, art pencils, 11x14 paper, measuring tape, dental mirror, small flashlight, calipers, tweezers, and an eraser to clean up the drawings afterwards.</div>
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This shoe I'm allowed to move onto the paper and manipulate as need be. A measuring tape can be used to transfer the details in lieu of tracing. It takes longer, but it's much less risky to fragile objects. When moving the shoe I place my hand in the open space under the sole. The uppers and heel are far more fragile than the sole and it should be lifted by its strongest point.</div>
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While there will be multiple angles drawn out, the first I start with is the side angle. Gently laying the shoe on the paper (11x14) and tracing roughly around it. The notes at the top right so far tell me my initials, the drawing number (changes over each year), and the accession number or location of the object.</div>
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I then go and fill in all of the visual details. I draw to scale as much as possible, using a measuring tape or calipers.</div>
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Then, the most important part- notes. I can't stress how much information you need to write down. More than anything I learned this working on the Marquee. Making something that large stitch for stitch meant we needed to note an absurd amount- down to where and how binding was pieced, what angles the stitches were, the size of the thread, etc. Imagine re-creating the object and walk through what you'll need to know for each step. You may not have access to pictures or the object ever again.</div>
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I did drawings from other essential angles and of the details. Since this point I've added more notes: the binding meets CF and is butted and whipped, the fringe is running stitched on 3 spi not showing on the inside, how many threads per inch in the linen, and the dating that is probably around 1785. I'm sure I will continue to think of more things, but this now gives me a standard set of questions I could develop to apply to every shoe I look at. Fortunately, this is in my collection, so I can reference it as often as need be. It also means I can show you plenty of images of it.</div>
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I wish I knew what museum had de-accessioned this, but it's not a numbering system I'm familiar with. It's a bit of a sad shoe, with the silk shattering and the fringe falling apart. But, that makes it perfect for study. I can see the whittaw reinforcements through the holes, count the exposed stitches where the fringe once was. I do wish I knew what was once attached to it's vamp, but that will take some study and an educated guess I think. My next step with this shoe is to create a custom bag to keep the shape inside and use conservators thread to tack the fringe back together.</div>
ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-69323669765692536392014-02-19T10:48:00.001-05:002014-02-19T10:48:45.299-05:00Wear and Tear<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Spending the better portion of 8 months in 18th century attire meant that I put a fair amount of wear on my shoes. Even the newer ones. I figured this would be a good time to show you how much abuse these shoes can take before needing repairs or retirement. Of course, this isn't really comparable to 18th century wear since they weren't walking on paved roads, brick sidewalks, and gravel everywhere they went.<br />
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We'll start with the oldest pair that was worn. Technically my second pair, but the first didn't fit well enough to be worn often. So, a reminder of where they started out:<br />
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Fortunately for me (I can't say the same for the shoes), these were almost entirely worn during my evening programs job of walking a fairly consistent route down the street every night. I was able to add up the number of nights I worked with an idea of how much I walked every night. It came out to about 500 miles. On pavement. Also, they went through a massive flood more than once- puddles past my ankles.<br />
The damage is almost entirely to the soles. The wool uppers are a little pilled and stiff, but the stiffness is because of the whittaw lining and the paste between the two layers got soaking wet. The only other damage is due to my choice of stitching method at the side seam, which I've since changed. The soles, however, are completely worn through. If I had decided to save them earlier I could have "clump soled" them, which you'll see later. I also could whiten the heels with pipe clay- the cleaner heel I simply washed off and burnished a bit to fix it as an experiment.<br />
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Same construction method, but with far less wear are my red shoes. They don't look much different from their start except for the soles. I've worn them a number of times, but they haven't been meant for long-distance walking in the same way. The cut you see on the sole isn't from wear, but a mistake in construction (common to start with, thankfully I've moved past that!). I'm almost done with a pair of overshoes to fit, so there won't be any more wear on these!<br />
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Now, the workhorse. Again, the uppers look just broken in. I've blacked them once to bring back some shine. The soles, however, have had numerous surgeries. The most common fix for shoes is to add on a new heel cap. You simply peg and paste this piece on top of the old rather than removing the stitched on cap. Sometimes I'll peg on a piece even before wearing so I don't have to worry about wearing down the leather too far. I don't know how many times I've replaced that cap on these- maybe 6? They're also clump soled. Meaning I wore down the sole really thin and stitched a second sole using the edge of the first as a sort of welt. It does make them a bit thick soled, but they're for wearing hard. And believe me, I have.<br />
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The most recent pair has seen it's share of walking around as well. You can see some pre-emptive heel caps on them. The sole is simply sueded at this point, no major wear. I'm only wearing them a couple times a month now, so they'll last a few years at this rate.<br />
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The last pair is a sort of control. The slippers have only been worn indoors (save one short trip that answered why you don't wear slippers outside). Though, that does still mean about 150 days of wearing for about 8 hours on pine floors. I'd wear them everyday if they dealt with carpet better. I haven't even sueded the soles completely and the ribbon wear is because it's antique silk ribbon, pretty but fragile.<br />
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Also, the Shoe Timeline print and digital file are up on the Etsy site now, along with a few markdowns: <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/GoldenHind">https://www.etsy.com/shop/GoldenHind</a><br />
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ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-79502847313477650602014-02-05T16:45:00.000-05:002014-02-05T16:48:58.306-05:00Book<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Just a quick post to let you know that I've released a book about turn shoe construction. It's not meant to be instructional, but it covers the topic pretty well. I hope to eventually write a very in-depth book on the process, but the feedback on this will help to know what needs to go in it as well as knowing if there's any demand for it. Check it out and if you do purchase a book or download the PDF I'd love to hear your thoughts!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGEsJOvv9FU0SX6DQ6c9Dja_nBHOnZe_zI-sT9FwqaNpPGTcJnzfvkCkToQEZriCqZkEK9akcUPlaH5rOD6brVUDX4uESN2aaEoKy13nhzpBHAhBGHWR0kFzQxUygi1MVWWPK2pH8vt9w/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-01-20+at+17.25.41.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGEsJOvv9FU0SX6DQ6c9Dja_nBHOnZe_zI-sT9FwqaNpPGTcJnzfvkCkToQEZriCqZkEK9akcUPlaH5rOD6brVUDX4uESN2aaEoKy13nhzpBHAhBGHWR0kFzQxUygi1MVWWPK2pH8vt9w/s1600/Screen+Shot+2014-01-20+at+17.25.41.png" height="269" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://blur.by/1ihh6lq" style="margin: 12px 3px;" target="_blank">18th Century Turn Shoe Construction by Nicole Rudolph</a></div>
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I'm still working on printing the Shoe Timeline image. Turns out, my *ancient* (four years old) printer doesn't communicate with Windows 7 very well. Shocking. Most things print fine, just not borderless or 13x19. Oh, wait, those are both what I'm trying to do.<br />
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ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-75370003689672155052014-01-12T20:17:00.001-05:002014-02-11T11:42:33.346-05:00Those are so 1776.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Unfortunately there are so few surviving examples of shoes compared to what there truly was and most portraits don't show the feet clearly. But, every once in a while, there's enough of a trend visible that even we can notice it today. Take for example this particular style of ladies shoes. There are numerous surviving examples, some even are dated because of weddings, and at least a couple of portraits! I'm hoping to continue finding dated extants and imagery of this style so the others can be given much more specific dating than the decade or two cushion usually afforded.<br />
The consistencies I noticed were not only the bouquet embroidery on the toe, but both figured silk and contrasting straps/heels seemed very popular around this time as well. While those by themselves are posts for another day, they do tie in this style to a more specific time period.<br />
You'll notice that the two portraits and the pair that mentions being from a wedding are 1775, 1776, and 1777. Some are dated later, and perhaps could be remnants of a popular style, but I believe that the concrete dating could provide major evidence to move that estimated date slightly earlier. Also, notice the major discrepancies in dates of similar styles from the same museum. I'm still looking for more extants and more portraits, but at the moment I'd feel safe putting any of these as 1775-81. Honestly, if going by heel and toe shape, if that dating does hold correct, these might even be brought down to a two or three year range.<br />
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<a href="http://images.powerhousemuseum.com/images/zoomify/TLF_mediums/101385.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://images.powerhousemuseum.com/images/zoomify/TLF_mediums/101385.jpg" style="margin-top: 0px; padding: 0px;" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.powerhousemuseum.com/collection/database/?irn=239856">Powerhouse Museum, 1775-1785</a></div>
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<img alt="Shoes" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/13.49.30ab_F.jpg" height="274" width="400" /><br />
<a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/98228?img=0">Met Museum, 1776</a></div>
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<img src="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/pictures/36060.jpg" height="300" style="margin-top: 10px;" width="400" /></div>
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<a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=949">Russian Shoe Museum, 1777 (Wedding shoes)</a></div>
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<a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/54.61.111a-b_CP2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Shoes" border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/54.61.111a-b_CP2.jpg" height="230" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/168958?rpp=20&pg=6&ft=Shoes&when=A.D.+1600-1800&pos=119">Met Museum, 1775-89</a></div>
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<a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/pictures/35852.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/pictures/35852.jpg" height="300" style="margin-top: 10px;" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=1040">Russian Shoe Museum, (1750)</a></div>
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I'm definitely disagreeing with that date.</div>
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<a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/pictures/36092.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/pictures/36092.jpg" height="300" style="margin-top: 10px;" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=1410">Russian Shoe Museum, 1780s</a></div>
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<a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/54.61.103a-b_CP2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Shoes" border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/54.61.103a-b_CP2.jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/168954?rpp=20&pg=6&rndkey=20130328&ft=*&when=A.D.+1600-1800&what=Costume%7cFootwear&pos=109">Met Museum, 1770-89</a></div>
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<a href="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc1/sc14173.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=568&cell=568,427&cvt=jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Pair of woman's shoes" border="0" class="object-large-image" src="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc1/sc14173.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=568&cell=568,427&cvt=jpeg" height="272" id="objectLargeImage_SC14173" title="Pair of woman's shoes" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/pair-of-woman-s-shoes-121540">MFA Boston, 1780-85</a></div>
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<img alt="Pair of woman's shoes" class="object-large-image" src="http://zoom.mfa.org/fif=sc1/sc14116.fpx&obj=iip,1.0&wid=568&cell=568,427&cvt=jpeg" height="267" id="objectLargeImage_SC14116" title="Pair of woman's shoes" width="400" /></div>
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<a href="http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/pair-of-woman-s-shoes-120828">MFA Boston, 1770s</a></div>
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<img alt="Pair of shoes" src="http://media.vam.ac.uk/media/thira/collection_images/2006AW/2006AW2041_jpg_ds.jpg" height="355" id="main_image" title="Pair of shoes" width="355" /></div>
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<a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O74850/pair-of-shoes-unknown/">V&A, 1770-85</a></div>
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<img alt="File:John Singleton Copley 002.jpg" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/26/John_Singleton_Copley_002.jpg/759px-John_Singleton_Copley_002.jpg" height="315" srcset="//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/26/John_Singleton_Copley_002.jpg/1139px-John_Singleton_Copley_002.jpg 1.5x, //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/26/John_Singleton_Copley_002.jpg/1518px-John_Singleton_Copley_002.jpg 2x" width="400" /></div>
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<a href="webkit-fake-url://B58EF5A3-FD07-45C4-9C7F-71F6D8557997/application.pdf" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">John Singleton Copley and his family, 1776</a></div>
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Johan Joseph Zoffany, The Gore Family, 1775</div>
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Interestingly enough (and muddying the easy dating) the embroidery on the toe of the vamp continues through the 1780s and perhaps is part of what starts the 1790s trend for the cut-out work on the toe in leather. I can't say with consistency yet, but both of these pairs have a much more laddered style of embroidery compared to the bouquets of the 1770s. Perhaps changing with the toe shape? Or perhaps this particular pattern change is mirrored in fabric as well?<br />
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<img align="middle" alt="shoes 1954.915.jpg" border="0" src="http://www.manchestergalleries.org/the-collections/search-the-collection/mcgweb/objects/common/webmedia.php?irn=32675&size=431x323" height="323" width="431" /></div>
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<a href="http://www.manchestergalleries.org/the-collections/search-the-collection/image.php?EMUSESSID=a1b5e10907b9d5761475c3915ed85e23&imageirn=32675&r=1865686110">Manchester City Galleries</a></div>
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<img src="http://collections.lacma.org/sites/default/files/remote_images/piction/ma-31656024-WEB.jpg" /></div>
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<a href="http://collections.lacma.org/node/247371">LACMA, 1785</a></div>
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ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-77762948370882889242013-12-30T20:45:00.000-05:002014-02-11T11:43:00.533-05:00Timeline of Shoes<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I've been working on this for a couple of months now (including the post disappearing before I sketched all of the shoes and having to find them again). I wanted to have a timeline that showed the changes in style in a very coherent and gradual way. I tried to pick out styles that were not only very typical of their time (for English or American), but could show change from one style to another. And, above all else, be sure to reference what museum the images came from!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ9LtkJ-K23RvSizAMSeiGUdCRMk9QT2xiIiwCk2m_HuQce-WU501FN7_BaQUs4BKjjVW_NtggvLcstcrQh1TMj55GmTa4Okigh1xiMq79QMsaXgjQfshy1YmKgLNOBP5zo1Rmvqth-WY/s1600/Shoe+Timeline+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ9LtkJ-K23RvSizAMSeiGUdCRMk9QT2xiIiwCk2m_HuQce-WU501FN7_BaQUs4BKjjVW_NtggvLcstcrQh1TMj55GmTa4Okigh1xiMq79QMsaXgjQfshy1YmKgLNOBP5zo1Rmvqth-WY/s640/Shoe+Timeline+copy.jpg" height="403" width="640" /></a></div>
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<img alt="Shoes" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1984.141ab_F.jpg" /><br />
Met Museum <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/112639?rpp=20&pg=1&ft=*&whento=1750&whenfrom=1700&whenfunc=between&what=Costume%7cFootwear&pos=14">1984.141</a><br />
1700-1710<br />
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<img alt="Shoes" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/54.61.79a-b_CP4.jpg" /><br />
Met Museum <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/156199?rpp=20&pg=5&rndkey=20131216&ao=on&ft=*&whento=1790&whenfrom=1700&whenfunc=between&what=Costume%7cFootwear&pos=82">2009.300.1480</a><br />
1700-1720<br />
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<img src="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/pictures/35982.jpg" height="300" style="margin-top: 10px;" width="400" /><br />
Russian Shoe Museum <a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=1723">id 1723</a><br />
1710-20<br />
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<img src="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/pictures/35794.jpg" height="300" style="margin-top: 10px;" width="400" /><br />
Russian Shoe Museum <a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=1411">id 1411</a><br />
1720-30<br />
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<img src="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/pictures/35946.jpg" height="300" style="margin-top: 10px;" width="400" /><br />
Russian Shoe Museum id <a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=1574">1574</a><br />
1720-40<br />
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<img src="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/pictures/10058.jpg" height="300" style="margin-top: 10px;" width="400" /></div>
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Russian Shoe Museum, <a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=1322">id 1322</a><br />
1735<br />
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<img src="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/pictures/35987.jpg" height="298" style="margin-top: 10px;" width="400" /></div>
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Russian Shoe Museum, <a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=1030">id 1030</a></div>
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1736*<br />
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<a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/54.61.86a-b_CP2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Shoes" border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/54.61.86a-b_CP2.jpg" /></a></div>
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Met Museum <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/168948?rpp=20&pg=4&rndkey=20131216&ao=on&ft=*&whento=1790&whenfrom=1700&whenfunc=between&what=Costume%7cFootwear&pos=66">2009.300.4743</a></div>
1730-59<br />
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<img src="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/pictures/10225.jpg" height="300" style="margin-top: 10px;" width="400" /><br />
Russian Shoe Museum, <a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=1412">id 1412</a><br />
1740<br />
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<img src="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/pictures/35838.jpg" height="300" style="margin-top: 10px;" width="400" /><br />
Russian Shoe Museum<a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=945"> id 945</a><br />
1750-60<br />
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<img alt="Shoes" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/26.487a-b_CP4.jpg" /><br />
Met Museum <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/156118?rpp=20&pg=6&ao=on&ft=*&when=A.D.+1600-1800&what=Costume%7cFootwear&pos=111">2009.300.1406</a><br />
1750-70<br />
<img src="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/pictures/36650.jpg" height="300" style="margin-top: 10px;" width="400" /><br />
Russian Shoe Museum <a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=990">id 990</a><br />
1750-70<br />
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<img alt="Shoes" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/13.49.30ab_F.jpg" /><br />
Met Museum <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/98228?rpp=20&pg=2&rndkey=20131216&ao=on&ft=*&whento=1790&whenfrom=1700&whenfunc=between&what=Costume%7cFootwear&pos=38">13.49.30</a><br />
1776<br />
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<img src="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/pictures/36060.jpg" height="300" style="margin-top: 10px;" width="400" /><br />
Russian Shoe Museum <a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=949">id 949</a><br />
1777*<br />
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<img src="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/pictures/36029.jpg" height="300" style="margin-top: 10px;" width="400" /><br />
Russian Shoe Museum <a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=973">id 973</a><br />
1775-85<br />
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<img src="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/pictures/36019.jpg" height="300" style="margin-top: 10px;" width="400" /><br />
Russian Shoe Museum <a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=1134">id 1134</a><br />
1780s<br />
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<img src="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/pictures/36629.jpg" height="300" style="margin-top: 10px;" width="400" /><br />
Russian Shoe Museum <a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=1037">id 1037</a><br />
1790<br />
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<img alt="Slippers" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/C.I.43.65.3ab_F.jpg" /><br />
Met Museum <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/99786?rpp=60&pg=1&rndkey=20131122&ao=on&ft=*&whento=1798&whenfrom=1700&whenfunc=between&what=Costume%7cFootwear&pos=26">C.I.43.65.3</a><br />
1790<br />
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<a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/pictures/36005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/pictures/36005.jpg" height="300" style="margin-top: 10px;" width="400" /></a></div>
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Russian Shoe Museum <a href="http://eng.shoe-icons.com/collection/object.htm?id=1587">id 1587</a><br />
1795-1800</div>
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ColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.com5