Diary of a Mantua Maker: 1780-85

The word of the day is Poofy. Gauze and Cotton seem to be taking over the fashion world. You see them used for aprons, trim, caps, bonnets, kerchiefs, petticoats, and gowns. The Duchess of Devonshire and her sisters take over the satires in 1784, pushing for votes in some fashionably fluffy gowns, as well as a few *ahem* attention-getting styles (I'm sure completely made up).

Front

Closure: Almost all closed front, cut-away styles seen as well.

Neckline: Very open, rounded corners (one needs something for modesty).

Skirt opening: Over 8", almost to sides in some cases

Waistline: Pointed, squared, and curved

Back

Style: English backs and Quarter backs very common

Pleats: Very narrow, some inverted for even smaller look on English backs.

Skirt Pleats: About 1/4"

Shoulder Span: Sleeve corner very high and pulling in towards center

Sleeves

1 piece, slim fit, often end below elbow point. Full length sleeves popular with short jackets, occasionally found on gowns.

Trim

Sleeves: Cuff style, bows, or without trim.

Style: Gathered and puffed, simple ribbon, some pleated

Edges: Pinked or folded edge (either roll-hemmed or folded under)

Content: Gauze, self-fabric, and contrast all common

Fabric

Stripes, solid, and some small prints or brocades. Cotton chintz prints becoming popular.

Shape

The front line is bowed out. Very full skirt, in back as well as sides. Bum rolls very common. Flounces on petticoats or gauze overskirts help to balance fullness of polonaised skirts. Kerchiefs often tucked in front for "pigeon breast" look.