1775-79

The Polonaise takes over, be it in full Robe a la Polonaise form or just lifted skirts.  Short jackets begin to appear fashionably and the rump is a new source of comedic value for satirists.

Front

Closure: Almost all closed front, a few stomacher fronts still seen in formal dress

Neckline: Very open, rounded corners

Skirt opening: Over 8", almost to sides in some cases

Waistline: Pointed, flat, and curved

Back

Style: English backs and Quarter backs very common, Sacque backs still present but less common

Pleats: Very narrow, some inverted for even smaller look on English backs.

Skirt Pleats: Often less than 1/2", some only 1/4"

Shoulder Span: Sleeve corner very high and pulling in towards center

Sleeves

1 piece, slim fit, often end below elbow point.  A few full length sleeves appear, not clear if one or two piece construction.

Trim

Sleeves:  Some larger ruffles still seen, cuff style trimming very common with small round ruffles.

Style: Many new and creative shapes and styles seen.  Pleating, puffing, gathering all used.

Edges: Pinked or folded edge (either roll-hemmed or folded under)

Content: Self-fabric, contrast fabric, and some gauze

Fabric

Stripes, solid, and some small prints or brocades.

Shape

The front line is beginning to bow out.  Fullness is present in the skirts back and sides, panniers becoming rumps.  I found the silhouette of the skirt shape almost round.

CWF Silk Taffeta Gown, 1778

Met Silk Robe a l'Anglaise, 1775

Met Robe a l'Anglaise, 1776

Met Robe a l'Anglaise, 1776

V&A Quarter Back Gown, 1775

V&A Robe a la Francaise, 1775-80

Two Ladies in the Newest Dress, 1775

A Bagnigge Wells Scene, 1776

The Cork Rump, 1776

Slight of Hand by a Monkey, 1776

The Married Macaroni, 1777

The Feather'd Fair in a Fright, 1777

New Full Dress & Fashionable Undress, 1778

Good Advice, 1778

Summer, 1779

Mrs. Eliot by Thomas Gainsborough, 1778