I'm going to focus mainly on gowns and some jackets for the timeline. I might come back and do other garments at another point (stays, hats, caps, riding habits, etc). In order to keep it consistent I'm categorizing the information.
Front
Closure: Stomacher, occasionally with ties or tabs across it.
Neckline: Square, high but wide.
Skirt opening: Almost always 6" or under (some larger by proportion to size)
Back
Style: Both Sacque backs and English backs seen.
Pleats: Large, at least 8" wide at neck. English pleats 4"+ at waist.
Skirt Pleats: 1/2"+ for English, often none for Sacque (continues from bodice).
Shoulder Span: About 10" before armscye.
Sleeves
1 piece, looser fit, end above elbow. Pleats at top of shoulder.
Trim
Sleeves: Large ruffles, often two or three tiers.
Style: Gathered and Pleated. Waved and Straight.
Edges: Pinked and Trimmed.
Content: Self-fabric, fly-fringe, or lace.
Fabric
Brocades with large prints very common. Solid Silk Taffeta also common (I found a lot of yellow extants). Some large embroidery and painted silks as well.
Shape
Very straight, stiff cone bodice. Wide skirts, over hoops or panniers. I see a lot of emphasis on width in silhouette and trim, setting off the tiny point at the waist.
Front
Closure: Stomacher, occasionally with ties or tabs across it.
Neckline: Square, high but wide.
Skirt opening: Almost always 6" or under (some larger by proportion to size)
Back
Style: Both Sacque backs and English backs seen.
Pleats: Large, at least 8" wide at neck. English pleats 4"+ at waist.
Skirt Pleats: 1/2"+ for English, often none for Sacque (continues from bodice).
Shoulder Span: About 10" before armscye.
Sleeves
1 piece, looser fit, end above elbow. Pleats at top of shoulder.
Trim
Sleeves: Large ruffles, often two or three tiers.
Style: Gathered and Pleated. Waved and Straight.
Edges: Pinked and Trimmed.
Content: Self-fabric, fly-fringe, or lace.
Fabric
Brocades with large prints very common. Solid Silk Taffeta also common (I found a lot of yellow extants). Some large embroidery and painted silks as well.
Shape
Very straight, stiff cone bodice. Wide skirts, over hoops or panniers. I see a lot of emphasis on width in silhouette and trim, setting off the tiny point at the waist.
V&A Painted Silk Robe a la Francaise, 1760-65
LACMA Silk Robe a la Francaise, 1760-65
V&A Silk Brocade Robe a l'Anglaise, 1760-69
Winter, 1762
Fair Seamstress, 1764
The Lovely Spinner, 1764
Air, 1764
Water, 1764
Mrs. Phillip Thicknesse by Thomas Gainsborough, 1759/60
Mary, Countess of Howe by Thomas Gainsborough, 1764
This is fabulous. Thank you so much for putting it together! I'm really looking forward to more installments.
ReplyDeleteThank you for this info, very useful!
ReplyDelete