tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post4906830111271804645..comments2024-03-24T05:17:53.070-04:00Comments on Diary of a Mantua Maker: Quarter-back GownsColeVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.comBlogger14125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-16725935270790135102011-11-07T13:39:16.207-05:002011-11-07T13:39:16.207-05:00Thanks so much! That was so fast. I will be lookin...Thanks so much! That was so fast. I will be looking through my fashion plate books as soon as I get home :)Carolinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04543398249049649078noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-83926433515416320512011-11-07T12:11:06.651-05:002011-11-07T12:11:06.651-05:00The information I have in terms of what to call th...The information I have in terms of what to call them comes from the Milliners at Colonial Williamsburg. The way I understand it is that quarter-back specifically refers to this style of multi-piece back and Robe a l'Anglaise or English back refers to the gowns with pleated backs that are stitched flat. I don't know what is referred to as what in the period (perhaps some time spent flipping through fashion plates is in order), but I trust their terminology. With museums, they have very general terms and dates that aren't always correct (ex. the Polonaise gowns).ColeVhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-68303619400923195762011-11-07T11:40:00.390-05:002011-11-07T11:40:00.390-05:00You have such informative posts! For years I had n...You have such informative posts! For years I had never heard of quarter back gowns. I always saw them referred to as an anglaise, even in museum collections. Is it inappropriate to refer to them as an anglaise? Are they another type of anglaise? Or is it completely wrong to call them this? I'm so curious!<br /><br />Thanks!Carolinehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04543398249049649078noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-19010449218770964122011-02-16T11:57:20.976-05:002011-02-16T11:57:20.976-05:00I use a spaced back stitch to attach skirts on all...I use a spaced back stitch to attach skirts on all of my gowns. In the case of quarter-backs, it blends in with the stitching line of the bodice. I usually whip the raw top edge to the bodice for extra strength. I didn't on the stripe because I thought it would fray too much, but I have to be careful with it not to stress that single line of stitching.ColeVhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-76579383360354292192011-02-16T10:51:20.527-05:002011-02-16T10:51:20.527-05:00hi, how is your skirt attached on your striped cut...hi, how is your skirt attached on your striped cutaway? i see the bottom edge of the bodice finished, then the skirt layed on top but with what stitch are you sewing it with? <br /><br />thanks!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-17174765477854500292011-01-31T23:36:21.055-05:002011-01-31T23:36:21.055-05:00Thanks! That's really handy :)Thanks! That's really handy :)Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-34003658396815675232011-01-30T21:35:18.490-05:002011-01-30T21:35:18.490-05:00I usually purchase 7 yards for a gown/petticoat wi...I usually purchase 7 yards for a gown/petticoat with little or no trim. If the persons figure is fuller or they're taller I might up to 8 to be safe. English backs can take a smidge more sometimes. Just figure waist to floor four times (or two with no petticoat) and enough for a bodice when making a quarter-back.ColeVhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-1357414273278319802011-01-30T20:52:38.782-05:002011-01-30T20:52:38.782-05:00Thanks a lot! This is great! :) I'm a beginner...Thanks a lot! This is great! :) I'm a beginner costumer and I was wondering, how much fabric do you need to make a gown like the cut-away? or how do you estimate the yardage when buying your fashion fabric?Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-28400818445002865782010-01-23T11:49:08.958-05:002010-01-23T11:49:08.958-05:00Very lovely gown, and I got your message Angela!Very lovely gown, and I got your message Angela!Ron Carnegiehttp://rscarnegie.comnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-73162106882447142372009-12-28T10:54:44.217-05:002009-12-28T10:54:44.217-05:00Absolutely lovely gown! It remembers me Eliza De F...Absolutely lovely gown! It remembers me Eliza De Feuillide in Becoming Jane.Raquelhttp://janeausten.com.brnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-35966882755733939632009-08-20T23:03:57.109-04:002009-08-20T23:03:57.109-04:00Basically you have three types of backs; sacque/Wa...Basically you have three types of backs; sacque/Watteau/French where the pleats are loose, English where the pleats are fitted to the back and continue down through the skirt, and quartered where you've lost the pleats and gone to two seams and the skirt is completely separate. And, yep, the striped is a zone gown which refers to the front cut-away section (usually seen as a quartered back). Turques, from what I've seen, have a double sleeve to make it look more like two layered gowns. And I do know Ron Carnegie, but one certainly can't forget their own General! I'll wave hello from the crowd, but I doubt he knows me at all!ColeVhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06677760179064796377noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-7540131410469220002009-08-20T22:53:04.448-04:002009-08-20T22:53:04.448-04:00Hello. I have been peeking when I can at your blo...Hello. I have been peeking when I can at your blog. I am a part of an 18th century group in California. However, this is the first time I have heard reference to a quarter-back gown. So, I am showing my ignorance here. Can you explain what it is? The striped gown, isn't that called a zone front or Robe a la turque? Please correct me if I am wrong. Do you know Ron Carnegie at CW? Tell him I said hello. Angela GrimesAngelanoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-54630705384610127162009-07-28T20:16:36.268-04:002009-07-28T20:16:36.268-04:00Thanks for posting these instructions! I'm loo...Thanks for posting these instructions! I'm looking forward to the step by step fitting instructions, too! Both of these gowns are so pretty! You're such an inspiration! ;)<br /><br />~LindseyLindseyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12997514607291740440noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5813354351680599871.post-30550354443561096472009-07-19T19:03:18.451-04:002009-07-19T19:03:18.451-04:00Oooooh...thanks! I don't have a quarter-backe...Oooooh...thanks! I don't have a quarter-backed dress on my sewing list (at least not for the next 9 months!) but this post is going to be so helpful when I do!<br /><br />I love the blue dress on you - so flattering! I assume the buttons are to catch up the skirt? Could you post pictures of the corresponding skirt loops?The Dreamstresshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17897608732348842792noreply@blogger.com