Tuesday, January 10, 2012

1912 Evening Gown 2

Unexpectedly, the peach sari arrived today!  Very unexpected considering there are two other saris that haven't made it here yet which I ordered before it.  I guess I should also refer to it properly as a Dupati (like a shawl).  It's even more beautiful than I could have imagined!  I'm going to blind people with all of those tiny mirrors.  Yep, that's right, mirrors.  Those 5/8" circles every 3" or so are mirrors.  And there's gold bullion of course (both checked and smooth), silver sequins, and glass bugle beads.  So sparkly....
There's going to be repair work, but I'm going to wait until I've cut it to do that.  I'll use the cabbage for it's bullion and fix/replace the work which has snagged and come off.  Only one hole in the net though, so that's very good.  I'm still going to tack it all over to chiffon so the weight won't damage it more with time.
I also have to decide between peach and salmon charmeuse.  The chiffon swatches should be here in a couple of days, so I can see them all together first.

I also looked around online for interior shots of 1910s gowns that didn't have boned, structure bodices like the JA one.  They all have a lining (some more sheer) and a wide waist tape.  After finding these and a link to an online pattern I have a much better idea of what I'm going to be doing.
Waist tape on gold hobble dress.

Waist tape in a 1912 white satin gown.

Waist tape in a sheer 1910s gown.

6 comments:

Laurie said...

This is a very interesting post. It answered more than one question I've had about this type of project.

Sari said...

This sari is gorgeous, I can't wait to see how your gown turns out!

ZipZip said...

What a pretty dupatta!

The waist tapes inside dresses of this era were often the key "holder-uppers" of the dress or skirt and were typically known as belts. They were generally made of petersham. Sewing manuals of this era describe how they were used. I have a damaged lingerie dress from the teens era that shows how the belting was used for multiple functions. See http://zipzipinkspot.blogspot.com/2009/05/edwardian-lingerie-dress-diary-part-6.html and scroll down to the subheader "Examining Construction Using a Period Lingerie Dress".

Very best and it will be fun to watch this project progress!

Natalie

ColeV said...

Thank you Natalie! That's going to be an invaluable resource for this. I wonder if your original gown used muslin instead of petersham because it was so fine and light. Not much weight to hold up there!

Veronica said...

This gown is going to be gorgeous!
Where did you purchase this sari fabric from? I've been trying to find some pretty sheer beaded sari fabric like that, but to no avail!

ColeV said...

Veronica: http://stores.ebay.com/antiqueartofindia